70000 mile service

Dudley 75 · 21st April 2009, 22:13

Hi all, I am having a 70000 mile service done tomorrow (wed) on my 2.5 club auto. Just a couple of things I need to ask.
On previous cars I have run some engine cleaner before the oil change, is this ok with the KV6?
Is the auto 'box fluid lifetime or does it require changing?
Is 10/40w fully sythetic oil ok to use?

I'm having the service done by a mobile mechanic who I've used for years and can highley recommend!

T-Cut · 22nd April 2009, 00:07

There's some votes for and some votes against engine flushes. My personal opinion is they are a waste of money with today's oils. My view is they are more about marketing than mechanics. There is always a residue of old oil left in the engine, no matter how well it is drained. Consider those fitted with an oil cooler and there's more reason not to use a flush. Flushes aren't designed to run engines for very long, so why dilute your new oil with something inferior.

The oil specified for the engine is basically semi-synthetic. Opinions also vary about the use of fully synthetic oils in older engines. They have a more powerful cleaning action and are said to remove important sealing residues/films in the cylinders and other critical areas. If fully synthetic has been used historically, the continued use will be beneficial.

Please await other comments on this before deciding what you'd prefer. I'm not a lube oil expert, but I read a lot. There's no doubt lots of reasons why synthetic is believed better and you should consider them equally. Unfortunately, you may end up more confused than before.

TC

StevenWilliams · 22nd April 2009, 08:56

10w40 fully synthetic can cause some issues if the car is a high miler but I'd just stick with a good brand semi-synthetic. (I use Mobil S)

Auto box fluid is not a lifetime oil and should be replaced every 4 years or 60k whatever is soonest.

As for engine flushes. If it's the type you add to the oil I see no hard but when I bought my car I used and engine flush, changed the oil and 500 miles later changed the oil again so I really flushed mine out.
If you mean the type you add to the fuel then go ahead. some of it's quite good. In fact cataclean has just been given the thumbs up by VOSA as actually working.

CFS75 · 22nd April 2009, 09:16

The Rover 75/ZT Maintenance Check Sheet shows that the automatic gearbox oil should be changed at 60,000 miles or 4 years whichever is the sooner.

Dudley 75 · 22nd April 2009, 10:25

Ok... thanks for the useful and helpful replies again!

StevenWilliams · 22nd April 2009, 11:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by CFS75

The Rover 75/ZT Maintenance Check Sheet shows that the automatic gearbox oil should be changed at 60,000 miles or 4 years whichever is the sooner.

thats what I said...

efreeti · 22nd April 2009, 12:00

Make sure you use the correct autobox fluid and follow the instructions pretty carefully on how to do the fluid change.

It isn't as straight forward as some mechanics presume it should be and can cause premature failure if overfilled or under filled. There is a document in the data section of the site detailing the process.

Dudley 75 · 26th April 2009, 10:15

I have been let down by my mate so I am going to to the job myself. I have done servicing on cars before. I have printed off the how to regarding removing the rear spark plugs. I will leave the atf to a professional. I am ok going underneath a car using axle stands and a trolley jack. I always have trouble removing the sump plug for reason. Does anyone know the correct size spanner to use and do remove loosen it woth the engine cold or warm? Also I cant seam to be able to remove the ecu to change the pollen filter! I have followed the instruction re plenum drain hole cleaning.

James.uk · 26th April 2009, 12:46

The oil level in the autobox is extremely critical, and the margin for error is very very small. My usual garage wont touch them! So I advise you to go to a qualified Autobox Co to get the oil change done.

Jules took my ECU out and i didn't see how he did it,

dohh.. But hopefully someone will tell you shortly..
.

SD1too · 26th April 2009, 14:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dudley 75

I always have trouble removing the sump plug for reason. Does anyone know the correct size spanner to use and do remove loosen it woth the engine cold or warm?

Sump plug spanner is 15mm. It will be quite tight: 25 Nm. If the engine is warm the thinner oil will drain more easily, but be careful that you don't scald yourself.

Quote:

Also I cant seam to be able to remove the ecu to change the pollen filter!

It just lifts out of the bracket. Release the wiring loom clip from the threaded stud as you do so. Don't remove the multi-connector though!
A few extra pounds will buy you the pollen and odour filter (grey in colour). I've found it works well.

Simon.

21st April 2009, 22:13	#1
Dudley 75 Regular poster 2000 Rover 75 2.0 v6 Club Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Dudley, West Midlands Posts: 59 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	70000 mile service Hi all, I am having a 70000 mile service done tomorrow (wed) on my 2.5 club auto. Just a couple of things I need to ask. On previous cars I have run some engine cleaner before the oil change, is this ok with the KV6? Is the auto 'box fluid lifetime or does it require changing? Is 10/40w fully sythetic oil ok to use? I'm having the service done by a mobile mechanic who I've used for years and can highley recommend!

22nd April 2009, 08:56	#3
StevenWilliams This is my second home Rover 75 Saloon 2.5 V6 British Racing Green. 81,000 miles and counting Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Crawley, West Sussex Posts: 6,183 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	10w40 fully synthetic can cause some issues if the car is a high miler but I'd just stick with a good brand semi-synthetic. (I use Mobil S) Auto box fluid is not a lifetime oil and should be replaced every 4 years or 60k whatever is soonest. As for engine flushes. If it's the type you add to the oil I see no hard but when I bought my car I used and engine flush, changed the oil and 500 miles later changed the oil again so I really flushed mine out. If you mean the type you add to the fuel then go ahead. some of it's quite good. In fact cataclean has just been given the thumbs up by VOSA as actually working. __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Rover 75 2.5 2000 Club SE. British Racing Green. MEMBER NUMBER: MMMDCCXXVI Looking for: 7 seater Last edited by GreyGhost; 22nd April 2009 at 09:43..

22nd April 2009, 12:00	#7
efreeti Gets stuck in ZT-T CDT 130+ (04) & 75 Tourer CDT Auto (52) & a 1998 MGF (with HGF!) Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Halifax Posts: 903 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Make sure you use the correct autobox fluid and follow the instructions pretty carefully on how to do the fluid change. It isn't as straight forward as some mechanics presume it should be and can cause premature failure if overfilled or under filled. There is a document in the data section of the site detailing the process. __________________ Jim Replace in tank fuel pump with Peugeot alternative Dismantle and re-fit interior and seats Retrofit electric memory seats without the loom All followed at your own risk! Available to borrow: I have a home made (tried and tested) Cam Locking tool for M47 should anyone need it.

22nd April 2009, 00:07	#2
T-Cut This is my second home Rover75 and Mreg Corsa. Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Sumweer onat mote o'dust (Sagin) Posts: 21,754 Thanks: 341 Thanked 3,660 Times in 2,924 Posts	There's some votes for and some votes against engine flushes. My personal opinion is they are a waste of money with today's oils. My view is they are more about marketing than mechanics. There is always a residue of old oil left in the engine, no matter how well it is drained. Consider those fitted with an oil cooler and there's more reason not to use a flush. Flushes aren't designed to run engines for very long, so why dilute your new oil with something inferior. The oil specified for the engine is basically semi-synthetic. Opinions also vary about the use of fully synthetic oils in older engines. They have a more powerful cleaning action and are said to remove important sealing residues/films in the cylinders and other critical areas. If fully synthetic has been used historically, the continued use will be beneficial. Please await other comments on this before deciding what you'd prefer. I'm not a lube oil expert, but I read a lot. There's no doubt lots of reasons why synthetic is believed better and you should consider them equally. Unfortunately, you may end up more confused than before. TC

22nd April 2009, 09:16	#4
CFS75 Loves to post Rover 75 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE Auto Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Colchester Posts: 341 Thanks: 7 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	The Rover 75/ZT Maintenance Check Sheet shows that the automatic gearbox oil should be changed at 60,000 miles or 4 years whichever is the sooner.

22nd April 2009, 10:25	#5
Dudley 75 Regular poster 2000 Rover 75 2.0 v6 Club Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Dudley, West Midlands Posts: 59 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Ok... thanks for the useful and helpful replies again!

26th April 2009, 10:15	#8
Dudley 75 Regular poster 2000 Rover 75 2.0 v6 Club Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Dudley, West Midlands Posts: 59 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	I have been let down by my mate so I am going to to the job myself. I have done servicing on cars before. I have printed off the how to regarding removing the rear spark plugs. I will leave the atf to a professional. I am ok going underneath a car using axle stands and a trolley jack. I always have trouble removing the sump plug for reason. Does anyone know the correct size spanner to use and do remove loosen it woth the engine cold or warm? Also I cant seam to be able to remove the ecu to change the pollen filter! I have followed the instruction re plenum drain hole cleaning.

26th April 2009, 12:46	#9
James.uk Passed Away 2002 Pale Blue. Rover 75 CDTi Connoisseur auto. 170K miles Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Near the M67. Posts: 14,509 Thanks: 199 Thanked 585 Times in 397 Posts	The oil level in the autobox is extremely critical, and the margin for error is very very small. My usual garage wont touch them! So I advise you to go to a qualified Autobox Co to get the oil change done. Jules took my ECU out and i didn't see how he did it, dohh.. But hopefully someone will tell you shortly.. .