Rover 75club cdt gear change problems

copthornemick · 4th January 2018, 20:59

52 reg 128,000 miles

After 13 miles on motorway at lights on slip road car will not go into gear .
It is like pushing against a rubber block. I desperation find a gear and move off
On normal road the problem slowly goes away.
Slave cylinder problem diagnosed. Replaced, including gearbox oil.
Normal suburban journeys, no problem.
Then the next motorway trip, 13 miles, same problem.
The gearbox specialists of many years are flummoxed.
Anybody got ideas?

Mike Noc · 5th January 2018, 06:49

If the problem disappears with the engine turned off then it could be a problem with the master cylinder. What does the pedal feel like when it won't go into gear - is it any lighter?

Either strip and clean out the master cylinder and refill it with fresh fluid, or replace it.

If you can't get it into gear with the engine turned off either, then suspect the linkages between the gear lever and the gearbox.

.

Comfortably Numb · 5th January 2018, 18:40

Have you tried "pumping" the clutch pedal, - pressing it 2 or 3 times quickly to raise the pressure in the master cylinder? Alternatively, double de-clutching; - press clutch once, put into neutral, let clutch out and rev it in neutral, pressing clutch in and engaging lower gear as the revs drop. The idea is to match engine speed to gear speed, so if synchro- mesh is worn, it will mesh anyway. Beware not to force the gear stick, you will damage the selector forks. I have had several older cars which will not go into first gear at lights straight away, known as "baulking", like a rubber block, as you say. Press the clutch again, and try again, let the clutch up slowly to the start of the biting point as you keep gently pushing the gear stick - it will slot in when the gears can mesh.

Ravinder · 6th January 2018, 00:15

You say that the slave was replaced? So, was the clutch replaced at the same time as it would make sense to...
Have you checked for any leaks from your slave just in case? Under th car if you look in the bell housing of the gearbox, is there any fluid leaking from it?

copthornemick · 6th January 2018, 10:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by Comfortably Numb

Have you tried "pumping" the clutch pedal, - pressing it 2 or 3 times quickly to raise the pressure in the master cylinder? Alternatively, double de-clutching; - press clutch once, put into neutral, let clutch out and rev it in neutral, pressing clutch in and engaging lower gear as the revs drop. The idea is to match engine speed to gear speed, so if synchro- mesh is worn, it will mesh anyway. Beware not to force the gear stick, you will damage the selector forks. I have had several older cars which will not go into first gear at lights straight away, known as "baulking", like a rubber block, as you say. Press the clutch again, and try again, let the clutch up slowly to the start of the biting point as you keep gently pushing the gear stick - it will slot in when the gears can mesh.

I have done all these answers to no avail. Years of motoring from 1932 Austin 7, lorry driver with crash boxes, and later with a VW with a crash box. I am fully aware double declutching ref crash gear boxes.
The gearbox specialists have many years experience and are mystified.
The only answer is perhaps to scrap and put it down to experience.
I live in a village and need a car, public transport not very good.
I have grown fond of the 75. Many European trips over the years in a very comfortable car.

EastPete · 6th January 2018, 10:17

Don't scrap the car - I am sure this problem can be fixed.

Firstly, check the fluid level in the master and check for leaks at the master cylinder (above pedal) and slave (bell housing), as has been suggested above. Bleed through the clutch and see if that improves the situation - where is the bite point on the pedal ?

Check the gear selector cables - have they been correctly re-fitted after the clutch work ?

As Mike says, if the master has not been changed this could be the source of the problem.

Let us know how you get on.

Pete

copthornemick · 6th January 2018, 11:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by copthornemick

I have done all these answers to no avail. Years of motoring from 1932 Austin 7, lorry driver with crash boxes, and later with a VW with a crash box. I am fully aware double declutching ref crash gear boxes.
The gearbox specialists have many years experience and are mystified.
The only answer is perhaps to scrap and put it down to experience.
I live in a village and need a car, public transport not very good.
I have grown fond of the 75. Many European trips over the years in a very comfortable car.

The problem only occurs when on motorway driving i.e fast driving at 70+mph
Around town no problem at all.
Slave cylinder replaced as an answer but clutch not changed due to cost. I did not want to throw good money after bad as the car gets to a position when it is not worth it.

Mike Noc · 6th January 2018, 13:10

To get the best responses you need to answer the questions people post up.

The next time it happens stop, turn the engine off & try to get it into gear. If it doesn't go in then you could have a problem with the selectors in the gearbox.

As to why this only happens after a fast run, and then returns slowly to normal, it could be the box running hotter at speed.

Second hand gearboxes are dirt cheap so not worth repairing the one you have.

copthornemick · 6th January 2018, 15:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by EastPete

Don't scrap the car - I am sure this problem can be fixed.

Firstly, check the fluid level in the master and check for leaks at the master cylinder (above pedal) and slave (bell housing), as has been suggested above. Bleed through the clutch and see if that improves the situation - where is the bite point on the pedal ?

Check the gear selector cables - have they been correctly re-fitted after the clutch work ?

As Mike says, if the master has not been changed this could be the source of the problem.

Let us know how you get on.

Pete

The problem I have is that the gearbox specialist garage I used to has been going for some years. They replaced the slave cylinder on a previous 75 to my satisfaction. They went ahead and replaced the slave cylinder this time, £390 as I did not want the expense of a full job "flywheel, clutch etc ". They are quoting £800 for a complete job, but do not know whether it is the answer. Where does it stop? It has shown no leaks.
The history is that it was owned by a 75 enthusiast engineer who looked after it.
Before me buying it he replaced the water pump and belts, rear disc, parking sensors all round. He maintains that he does not know about the problem.
Cost so far,£900 purch, £160 for second key, £390 for latest problem so far.
As for testing it I must go a motorway, M23/M25 to test it. When you are traffic lights with cars behind, which has happened each time, your instinct
is to get out of the way!
I do not have the facilities to check the cylinders and rely on the garage to have done that.

Daveluck · 6th January 2018, 16:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by copthornemick

The problem I have is that the gearbox specialist garage I used to has been going for some years. They replaced the slave cylinder on a previous 75 to my satisfaction. They went ahead and replaced the slave cylinder this time, £390 as I did not want the expense of a full job "flywheel, clutch etc ". They are quoting £800 for a complete job, but do not know whether it is the answer. Where does it stop? It has shown no leaks.
The history is that it was owned by a 75 enthusiast engineer who looked after it.
Before me buying it he replaced the water pump and belts, rear disc, parking sensors all round. He maintains that he does not know about the problem.
Cost so far,£900 purch, £160 for second key, £390 for latest problem so far.
As for testing it I must go a motorway, M23/M25 to test it. When you are traffic lights with cars behind, which has happened each time, your instinct
is to get out of the way!
I do not have the facilities to check the cylinders and rely on the garage to have done that.

Ooohh I can hear the collective wheeze of dozens of members sucking their teeth in unison on this post!

Gearboxes here

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_o...arbox&_sacat=0

Gear boxes are pretty cheap and fairly reliable.

If you are not going to do the job yourself you could do worse than pick one of the traders on here, book it in for a quick overview and then if needs be get the gearbox seller to freight over to your chosen trader.

Your car so your money your choice.

4th January 2018, 20:59	#1
copthornemick Newbie ROVER75 SALOON Join Date: Dec 2017 Location: COPTHORNE Posts: 5 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Rover 75club cdt gear change problems 52 reg 128,000 miles After 13 miles on motorway at lights on slip road car will not go into gear . It is like pushing against a rubber block. I desperation find a gear and move off On normal road the problem slowly goes away. Slave cylinder problem diagnosed. Replaced, including gearbox oil. Normal suburban journeys, no problem. Then the next motorway trip, 13 miles, same problem. The gearbox specialists of many years are flummoxed. Anybody got ideas?

5th January 2018, 06:49	#2
Mike Noc This is my second home Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Hampshire Posts: 11,570 Thanks: 3,470 Thanked 3,119 Times in 2,247 Posts	If the problem disappears with the engine turned off then it could be a problem with the master cylinder. What does the pedal feel like when it won't go into gear - is it any lighter? Either strip and clean out the master cylinder and refill it with fresh fluid, or replace it. If you can't get it into gear with the engine turned off either, then suspect the linkages between the gear lever and the gearbox. . Last edited by Mike Noc; 5th January 2018 at 06:54..

6th January 2018, 00:15	#4
Ravinder This is my second home Rover 75 saloon x2, Rover 75 Tourer x2, Rover 220 Coupe Turbo Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Kirkcaldy, Fife Posts: 9,038 Thanks: 2,278 Thanked 2,852 Times in 1,718 Posts	You say that the slave was replaced? So, was the clutch replaced at the same time as it would make sense to... Have you checked for any leaks from your slave just in case? Under th car if you look in the bell housing of the gearbox, is there any fluid leaking from it? __________________ Wanted - Indian bride. Cash waiting. (All sorted - bargain) First name and forum name: Ravinder Rover 75 2.0 CDT Connoisseur SE 116 (160 remap) Royal Blue (JFM) This vehicle was the 50,481st 75 to run off the production line, out of 112,381 This vehicle was the 2,238th 75 CDT Connoisseur SE to be made out of 3,775 This vehicle was the 5,002nd 75 in Royal Blue (code: JFM) to be made out of 14,420 Royal Blue 75s

5th January 2018, 18:40	#3
Comfortably Numb Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Dec 2017 Location: Penrith Posts: 1,336 Thanks: 165 Thanked 303 Times in 241 Posts	Have you tried "pumping" the clutch pedal, - pressing it 2 or 3 times quickly to raise the pressure in the master cylinder? Alternatively, double de-clutching; - press clutch once, put into neutral, let clutch out and rev it in neutral, pressing clutch in and engaging lower gear as the revs drop. The idea is to match engine speed to gear speed, so if synchro- mesh is worn, it will mesh anyway. Beware not to force the gear stick, you will damage the selector forks. I have had several older cars which will not go into first gear at lights straight away, known as "baulking", like a rubber block, as you say. Press the clutch again, and try again, let the clutch up slowly to the start of the biting point as you keep gently pushing the gear stick - it will slot in when the gears can mesh.

6th January 2018, 10:17	#6
EastPete Posted a thing or two Rover 75 CDTi Classic saloon, MGB GT, Skoda Yeti Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Ramsey, Cambs Posts: 1,874 Thanks: 626 Thanked 635 Times in 430 Posts	Don't scrap the car - I am sure this problem can be fixed. Firstly, check the fluid level in the master and check for leaks at the master cylinder (above pedal) and slave (bell housing), as has been suggested above. Bleed through the clutch and see if that improves the situation - where is the bite point on the pedal ? Check the gear selector cables - have they been correctly re-fitted after the clutch work ? As Mike says, if the master has not been changed this could be the source of the problem. Let us know how you get on. Pete

6th January 2018, 13:10	#8
Mike Noc This is my second home Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Hampshire Posts: 11,570 Thanks: 3,470 Thanked 3,119 Times in 2,247 Posts	To get the best responses you need to answer the questions people post up. The next time it happens stop, turn the engine off & try to get it into gear. If it doesn't go in then you could have a problem with the selectors in the gearbox. As to why this only happens after a fast run, and then returns slowly to normal, it could be the box running hotter at speed. Second hand gearboxes are dirt cheap so not worth repairing the one you have.