Diesel not starting - battery low?

Bernard Rhodes · 12th November 2017, 14:23

All I get is a rhythmic 'click - click - click' and the dash lights dimming and brightening in sync with the clicking.

Now, to be fair, the Owner's handbook does say 'Cars that are used excessively for short journey motoring, may need the battery to be charged . . . ' and that is the motoring I have been doing lately.

Q1. Is the battery in need of a top-up ( the dipped headlights are reasonably bright) ?
Edit: the battery voltage is only 11.70 - the same meter reads 12.62 volts on another lead-acid battery

Q2. If there is a chance that that is all that needs attention, is it really necessary, as the handbook also says, to remove the battery from the car before charging it?

Thanks in advance!

grivas · 12th November 2017, 15:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bernard Rhodes

All I get is a rhythmic 'click - click - click' and the dash lights dimming and brightening in sync with the clicking.

Now, to be fair, the Owner's handbook does say 'Cars that are used excessively for short journey motoring, may need the battery to be charged . . . ' and that is the motoring I have been doing lately.

Q1. Is the battery in need of a top-up ( the dipped headlights are reasonably bright) ?
Edit: the battery voltage is only 11.70 - the same meter reads 12.62 volts on another lead-acid battery

Q2. If there is a chance that that is all that needs attention, is it really necessary, as the handbook also says, to remove the battery from the car before charging it?

Thanks in advance!

You need to charge the battery fully, 11,7v will never start the diesel as it is essentially discharged, 12,62v is 95% charged.

Ravinder · 12th November 2017, 15:31

Sounds like a flat battery as it would make that click click noise. Also, another issue that may make that noise is a dodgy starter motor.
I’d try and connect some jump leads and see if it starts if it does, then it’s the battery...I’d probably take it on a nice long drive and let it charge up and take it from there...

Avulon · 12th November 2017, 17:04

When it's down to only clicking and not even turning the engine slowly I'd say don't try jump starting it. There's too much risk to the electronics. Also driving it around after jump starting from a battery that flat is unlikely to put enough charge in to be useful. A good overnight to 24 hour charge on a good 'intelligent' charger is what is required.

COLVERT · 13th November 2017, 17:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ravinder

Sounds like a flat battery as it would make that click click noise. Also, another issue that may make that noise is a dodgy starter motor.
I’d try and connect some jump leads and see if it starts if it does, then it’s the battery...I’d probably take it on a nice long drive and let it charge up and take it from there...

Nice long drive is, unfortunately, a total waste of time and money.

As above post, 24 hrs minimum on a battery charger.

This is the SAME as 24 hrs driving on the road.---

REMEMBER it's TIME not DISTANCE to charge your battery.

You could buy several battery chargers for the cost of the fuel to drive 24 hours.----

stevestrat · 13th November 2017, 21:49

What ever you do don't keep trying to start the car with a dodgy battery. This was posted some time ago by Russ:

DO NOT continue to try and start the car with a failing battery.

There is a possibility for the transponder chip in the key to become corrupted as it can scramble the rolling code with that stored in the immobiliser.

The engine disabled icon will display on the instument pack and you will no longer be able to start the car using that key.

To reduce the risk of this happening the best course of action is that if your car will not start as normal and the headlamps start to flash Don't continue to make attempts to start the car until you have charged the battery or replaced it if the battery has failed.

However should you be unfortunate and find that this has happened then any of the club members who offer the replacement key service should be able to re-sync the key with the immobiliser.

Russ

COLVERT · 13th November 2017, 22:13

HOWARD !!!!!

Come back and read these very important posts before you wreck something.---

-----------------

Bernard Rhodes · 13th November 2017, 23:07

Thanks to everybody who has replied above.

No need to worry about hasty actions: I fully accept that the battery needs charging before I do anything else.

The problem holding me up now is that I do not have the security code for the audio system (Symphony radio/cassette on my car). I do have one half of the 'Security Information / AA Rover Assistance'' card that came with the car - but it is not filled in!

Thus, the questions now are

1. Am I dicing with disaster by NOT disconnecting the battery from the car before charging it? (I can't help thinking that my battery charger is much less powerful than a donor car doing a jump-start, which the handbook does allow).

2. Is there any way of finding out the security code for use in the future?

spyder · 13th November 2017, 23:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bernard Rhodes

Thanks to everybody who has replied above.

No need to worry about hasty actions: I fully accept that the battery needs charging before I do anything else.

The problem holding me up now is that I do not have the security code for the audio system (Symphony radio/cassette on my car). I do have one half of the 'Security Information / AA Rover Assistance'' card that came with the car - but it is not filled in!

Thus, the questions now are

1. Am I dicing with disaster by NOT disconnecting the battery from the car before charging it? (I can't help thinking that my battery charger is much less powerful than a donor car doing a jump-start, which the handbook does allow).

2. Is there any way of finding out the security code for use in the future?

I often charge batteries connected. Make sure everything is off, I tend to leave a window open, just in case of central locking issues.

Connect the +ve lead first and then the earth. Trickle charge will always be best for the Health of your battery. I use a Ctec, which apparently restores a suspect battery and monitors the charge rate.

NigelOBB · 14th November 2017, 06:02

Sound like your battery is on its way out save the hassle of getting stranded and Change it.. euro car parts had a sale on if it’s any help.. From experience both my 75s within the space of a few months had battery issues.. and both where 3 year old.. the first like yours, I would charge it, top up if required etc it died within a month, the second on my Contemporary just collapsed.. had the receipt for that one and ECP gave me a refund it with no quibbles.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

12th November 2017, 14:23	#1
Bernard Rhodes Newbie Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Leicester Posts: 4 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Diesel not starting - battery low? All I get is a rhythmic 'click - click - click' and the dash lights dimming and brightening in sync with the clicking. Now, to be fair, the Owner's handbook does say 'Cars that are used excessively for short journey motoring, may need the battery to be charged . . . ' and that is the motoring I have been doing lately. Q1. Is the battery in need of a top-up ( the dipped headlights are reasonably bright) ? Edit: the battery voltage is only 11.70 - the same meter reads 12.62 volts on another lead-acid battery Q2. If there is a chance that that is all that needs attention, is it really necessary, as the handbook also says, to remove the battery from the car before charging it? Thanks in advance! Last edited by Bernard Rhodes; 12th November 2017 at 15:01..

12th November 2017, 15:31	#3
Ravinder This is my second home Rover 75 saloon x2, Rover 75 Tourer x2, Rover 220 Coupe Turbo Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Kirkcaldy, Fife Posts: 9,038 Thanks: 2,278 Thanked 2,852 Times in 1,718 Posts	Sounds like a flat battery as it would make that click click noise. Also, another issue that may make that noise is a dodgy starter motor. I’d try and connect some jump leads and see if it starts if it does, then it’s the battery...I’d probably take it on a nice long drive and let it charge up and take it from there... __________________ Wanted - Indian bride. Cash waiting. (All sorted - bargain) First name and forum name: Ravinder Rover 75 2.0 CDT Connoisseur SE 116 (160 remap) Royal Blue (JFM) This vehicle was the 50,481st 75 to run off the production line, out of 112,381 This vehicle was the 2,238th 75 CDT Connoisseur SE to be made out of 3,775 This vehicle was the 5,002nd 75 in Royal Blue (code: JFM) to be made out of 14,420 Royal Blue 75s

12th November 2017, 17:04	#4
Avulon This is my second home 1.8t Tourer Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Tanelorn Posts: 4,830 Thanks: 956 Thanked 1,148 Times in 916 Posts	When it's down to only clicking and not even turning the engine slowly I'd say don't try jump starting it. There's too much risk to the electronics. Also driving it around after jump starting from a battery that flat is unlikely to put enough charge in to be useful. A good overnight to 24 hour charge on a good 'intelligent' charger is what is required. __________________ Need a T4 ?: T4 Owners Map thanks to Stevestrat ( use at your own risk) Where?: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanelorn Mods/Retrofits: PCV vortex 'filter'; bluetooth; inline thermostat; reversing sensors; plenum spyhole ; headlamp washers ; Diy mp3 player replacing CD multichanger; FBH with remote; Headlamp washers; black/chrome front grille, rear blind; Xenon projectors To do: puddle lights; 2 Din cd/nav to fit; boot release button

13th November 2017, 21:49	#6
stevestrat This is my second home ZT260 #243 (resting) Join Date: May 2010 Location: Prestonpans Posts: 22,571 Thanks: 650 Thanked 4,624 Times in 3,358 Posts	What ever you do don't keep trying to start the car with a dodgy battery. This was posted some time ago by Russ: DO NOT continue to try and start the car with a failing battery. There is a possibility for the transponder chip in the key to become corrupted as it can scramble the rolling code with that stored in the immobiliser. The engine disabled icon will display on the instument pack and you will no longer be able to start the car using that key. To reduce the risk of this happening the best course of action is that if your car will not start as normal and the headlamps start to flash Don't continue to make attempts to start the car until you have charged the battery or replaced it if the battery has failed. However should you be unfortunate and find that this has happened then any of the club members who offer the replacement key service should be able to re-sync the key with the immobiliser. Russ __________________ Steve T4 Location Map

13th November 2017, 22:13	#7
COLVERT This is my second home R75 Saloon. Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: France/or Devon. Posts: 14,003 Thanks: 3,851 Thanked 2,167 Times in 1,816 Posts	HOWARD !!!!! Come back and read these very important posts before you wreck something.--------------------

13th November 2017, 23:07	#8
Bernard Rhodes Newbie Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Leicester Posts: 4 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Thanks to everybody who has replied above. No need to worry about hasty actions: I fully accept that the battery needs charging before I do anything else. The problem holding me up now is that I do not have the security code for the audio system (Symphony radio/cassette on my car). I do have one half of the 'Security Information / AA Rover Assistance'' card that came with the car - but it is not filled in! Thus, the questions now are 1. Am I dicing with disaster by NOT disconnecting the battery from the car before charging it? (I can't help thinking that my battery charger is much less powerful than a donor car doing a jump-start, which the handbook does allow). 2. Is there any way of finding out the security code for use in the future?

14th November 2017, 06:02	#10
NigelOBB This is my second home 04 Rover 75 Contemporary SE - 53 Rover 75 Connoisseur -94 Mercedes W140 - 72 VW Beetle 1300 Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Sunderland Posts: 4,767 Thanks: 1,379 Thanked 493 Times in 429 Posts	Sound like your battery is on its way out save the hassle of getting stranded and Change it.. euro car parts had a sale on if it’s any help.. From experience both my 75s within the space of a few months had battery issues.. and both where 3 year old.. the first like yours, I would charge it, top up if required etc it died within a month, the second on my Contemporary just collapsed.. had the receipt for that one and ECP gave me a refund it with no quibbles. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Keep smiling - it makes people wonder what you've been up to.