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15th October 2017, 15:50 | #1 |
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Does not start
HAVE 2006 75 Connoisseur
Battery test at 12.2 v Dash Board Lights comes on, but starter does not turn . Please |
15th October 2017, 16:07 | #2 | |
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Stu |
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16th October 2017, 21:33 | #3 | |
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2 hours charge is a waste of time 24 hours minimum is needed.--- The alternator will be charging at around 14.4 volts. Mr Fusilier Sir. Please go and have a read about batteries in the section at the top of the main called--Really, Really useful information--- Tells you all about batteries and charging.--- Colvert. Last edited by COLVERT; 16th October 2017 at 21:42.. |
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16th October 2017, 21:52 | #4 | |
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Howzit Janni, put your engine type in your signature, it will help people to diagnose your issue related to your car easier. As below check the female connector onto the starter-motor solenoid. Craig
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17th October 2017, 08:07 | #5 | |
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It decreases? Charge battery as recommended by Mr. Colvert. It remains the same? Check the starter motor connection as suggested by Mr. Spyder. Please let us know how you get on. Simon
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17th October 2017, 10:35 | #6 |
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Hi.
12.2 volts is ok for a battery that has been sitting for a few hours or longer. Each cell has a nominal voltage of 2 volts, on charge they can rise to 2.2 volts each or 14.4 volts for a 6 cell or what we know as a 12 volt battery. More importantly though as has been said it the voltage under load, turning on the ignition will always reduce the voltage on the battery terminals, this is because every battery under the sun has an internal resistance, older batteries can have a higher internal resistance and this is one reason it may not crank the engine. The instantaneous current on a starter can be as much as 600 amps on a diesel. Anyway I digress. If just switching on the ignition and the volts drop to 11 or close to it either the battery needs a charge or binned. In the first instance I'd have tried a jump start. If no results check for voltage when turning the key to the start position at the thin lead on the starter. If you have volts then the starter needs overhauled or replaced. P.S. expect the battery volts to drop by 0.2 - 0.3v when just turning on the ignition, any more than 0.5v you may have a weak battery. Turning the ignition further to the start position and its accompanied by a rapid clicking I'd definitely say you've a duff battery, also if turning the key to the start position and there is no further drop you either have no supply (poor connections) to the solenoid or a duff starter.
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Cheers from Trevor MM0KJJ Last edited by murphyv310; 17th October 2017 at 10:42.. |
17th October 2017, 12:56 | #7 |
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Diesel starter motor current draw----150 amps.---( R75. )
At 12.2 volts the battery is close to being flat. ( ie. not its shape.-- but not containing enough electricity to do any work. ) The general consensus of a lead/acid battery cell is 2.15 volts in very good condition and fully charged.--- |
17th October 2017, 16:12 | #8 | |
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Initial current is always much higher as the starter needs to run up to speed before the current levels out. It's like pushing a car that is stationary, you need a lot more effort to get it moving than keeping it going, same thing applies. Check the voltage of your battery in the morning or after a few hours and it will be anything from 12.2 to 13 volts,. The best test is on load, one reason garages had those testers that loaded the battery up with a 50 amp load. My Fiat reads 12.3v in the morning and fires up instantly, it's only a 36AH battery too. P.S. I use cyclon batteries in some of my electronics stuff. At 2v they are regarded as fully charged. They are lead acid
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Cheers from Trevor MM0KJJ Last edited by murphyv310; 17th October 2017 at 16:21.. |
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17th October 2017, 19:47 | #9 | |
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batteryuniversity.com |
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18th October 2017, 18:46 | #10 | |
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Or the on board voltage check ??? I'm thinking that your mutimeter is reading a bit low.---- |
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