Replacing the main body gasket on a PAS pump

David Lawrence · 31st January 2016, 16:51

This is how to replace the main body gasket on a CDT Mk1 PAS pump QVB101391.

Using a seal kit from Steeringseals.com but they dont list the kit on the website so you need to phone them on 01902 404258 and request the kit for around £15 delivered.

This is the pump

And the kit

You will need just a 10mm socket to remove the outlet elbow, and a 5mm allen socket to remove the 4 main body bolts.

Start by removing the elbow, and remove the o ring.

Then the 4 main body allen bolts

The two halves should separate easily revealing the disintegrated original gasket.

The innerds can be removed to facilitate a thorough cleanup of the body.

Note the two keys to keep all the parts correctly aligned when fitted. The longer pin goes through all the parts, so note where it goes, and the small key goes in the shaft of the pump to lock in the rotor.

The main rotor and the outer ring contain marks, a small dot, and a small triangle and these need to face toward the pulley at the front of the pump when refitting.

This picture shows the pins located ready for the rebuild

But now is the time to clean up the body parts, as it needs to be scrupulously clean before rebuilding.
Then fit the new gasket.

I dribbled some dexron III atf fluid over the i side of the pump just to ensure there is some lubrication in there before refitting the 2 halves

Remember to fit the new o ring to the outlet before refitting it, but that is basically all there is to it.

Forgot to mention the kit contains a main shaft seal, which i didnt replace here as the pump was only leaking from the body, and because I have no clue how to remove the rotor shaft, but no doubt someone will be along who can figure it out.

jonathan63 · 1st February 2016, 09:18

Top Post David,

How long did the rebuild take you? And is it as straightforward as it sounds: is there any chance of not being able to get all the bits back together?

With the pump off the car the rebuild can be done in about 30 minutes, but i spent longer giving the body parts a thorough clean up. If you are careful and just want to replace the gasket you dont actually have to take all the parts out of the innerds, so you could avoid problems with reassembly that way, but as i had never seen a pump stripped down before i took everything out. I had hoped it might have been possible to replace the main shaft seal as well, but that proved a touch too difficult for me. Looks like that shaft must come out from the inside by removing the pulley mount, but as it is completely round, smooth and no keys in it I have no idea how to get it off. And since it wasnt leaking from there decided to leave it alone.

hinged_bap · 1st February 2016, 18:11

a good how to, mine failed ( frothing fluid ) when i dissassembled it, the gasket did look ok, ( and it didn't leak ). however, prime suspect was the shaft seal allowing air into the pump.

David Lawrence · 1st February 2016, 18:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by hinged_bap

a good how to, mine failed ( frothing fluid ) when i dissassembled it, the gasket did look ok, ( and it didn't leak ). however, prime suspect was the shaft seal allowing air into the pump.

I presume the round inner ring here unscrews to facilitate removal of the pulley mount and get to the seal that way, but i dont really have anything that could grip something that smooth without damaging it, and as this pump is bone dry dont intend trying. I would be interested in seeing one removed if anyone has a scrapper to try it out on.

Mike Noc · 2nd February 2016, 08:45

Not an interference fit is it David?

If so a simple home made puller would get it off.

jonathan63 · 2nd February 2016, 09:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Lawrence

With the pump off the car the rebuild can be done in about 30 minutes, but i spent longer giving the body parts a thorough clean up. If you are careful and just want to replace the gasket you dont actually have to take all the parts out of the innerds, so you could avoid problems with reassembly that way, but as i had never seen a pump stripped down before i took everything out. I had hoped it might have been possible to replace the main shaft seal as well, but that proved a touch too difficult for me. Looks like that shaft must come out from the inside by removing the pulley mount, but as it is completely round, smooth and no keys in it I have no idea how to get it off. And since it wasnt leaking from there decided to leave it alone.

Thank you for that David, and thanks for the brilliant how to. I wimped out of the rebuild this time and ordered a recon'ed pump from http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROVER-75-P...-/171056146875 because I need my car back on the road asap.
I will be keeping my old pump to recondition (using your how to) when I have more time though.

Thanks again

Arctic · 2nd February 2016, 10:04

Hi David.
Excellent how to on the pump and changing the gasket

I think I have a spare pump some where in the shed I will try and find it out, and see how the pulley mount comes off, thank you for sharing your knowledge and findings

31st January 2016, 16:51	#1
David Lawrence This is my second home Rover 75 CDT-2001 Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Wrexham, North Wales Posts: 3,606 Thanks: 195 Thanked 606 Times in 501 Posts	Replacing the main body gasket on a PAS pump This is how to replace the main body gasket on a CDT Mk1 PAS pump QVB101391. Using a seal kit from Steeringseals.com but they dont list the kit on the website so you need to phone them on 01902 404258 and request the kit for around £15 delivered. This is the pump And the kit You will need just a 10mm socket to remove the outlet elbow, and a 5mm allen socket to remove the 4 main body bolts. Start by removing the elbow, and remove the o ring. Then the 4 main body allen bolts The two halves should separate easily revealing the disintegrated original gasket. The innerds can be removed to facilitate a thorough cleanup of the body. Note the two keys to keep all the parts correctly aligned when fitted. The longer pin goes through all the parts, so note where it goes, and the small key goes in the shaft of the pump to lock in the rotor. The main rotor and the outer ring contain marks, a small dot, and a small triangle and these need to face toward the pulley at the front of the pump when refitting. This picture shows the pins located ready for the rebuild But now is the time to clean up the body parts, as it needs to be scrupulously clean before rebuilding. Then fit the new gasket. I dribbled some dexron III atf fluid over the i side of the pump just to ensure there is some lubrication in there before refitting the 2 halves Remember to fit the new o ring to the outlet before refitting it, but that is basically all there is to it. Forgot to mention the kit contains a main shaft seal, which i didnt replace here as the pump was only leaking from the body, and because I have no clue how to remove the rotor shaft, but no doubt someone will be along who can figure it out. Last edited by David Lawrence; 29th July 2017 at 22:19..

2nd February 2016, 10:04	#8
Arctic Give to Learn Freelander 2 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: West Midlands Posts: 18,716 Thanks: 1,155 Thanked 6,407 Times in 3,874 Posts	Hi David. Excellent how to on the pump and changing the gasket I think I have a spare pump some where in the shed I will try and find it out, and see how the pulley mount comes off, thank you for sharing your knowledge and findings __________________ Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise "

1st February 2016, 09:18	#2
jonathan63 This is my second home CDTi Conniosseur SE HLNav Tourer and a Personal Line CDT Conniosseur SE Tourer..for the time being. Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Cumbria Posts: 3,639 Thanks: 340 Thanked 423 Times in 294 Posts	Top Post David, How long did the rebuild take you? And is it as straightforward as it sounds: is there any chance of not being able to get all the bits back together?

1st February 2016, 18:11	#4
hinged_bap Gets stuck in 75 CDT Conn SE Auto saloon Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Southampton Posts: 773 Thanks: 134 Thanked 104 Times in 81 Posts	a good how to, mine failed ( frothing fluid ) when i dissassembled it, the gasket did look ok, ( and it didn't leak ). however, prime suspect was the shaft seal allowing air into the pump.

2nd February 2016, 08:45	#6
Mike Noc This is my second home Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Hampshire Posts: 11,550 Thanks: 3,470 Thanked 3,119 Times in 2,247 Posts	Not an interference fit is it David? If so a simple home made puller would get it off.