front bush bolts?

spaner · 1st March 2015, 17:59

replacing the front wishbone and bush is a blooming hard job tight space ect eventualy removed the wishbone and bush but i just cant get the bush bolts lined up, tried allsorts i think i have put the bush to far onto the wishbone and now its stuck as it was a very tight fit.
any tips and advice would be apreciated.
thanks spaner

FrenchMike · 1st March 2015, 18:21

Hi,
I got them with this home made tool and by lowering one ich the subframe.

outil palier.jpg

Good luck

Mike

spaner · 1st March 2015, 18:48

thanks Mike have been using clamps so atleast i am on the right track will lower the frame next, i suppose once i have done one the next will be abit easier.

spaner · 2nd March 2015, 16:16

finally managed to get the bush bolts in using f-clamp to clamp the bush down so it was flat and then another fclamp to move/pull the bush into place using a mirror and torch to view the bolt holes, worked a treat.

EastPete · 2nd March 2015, 16:25

Neil

Did you have the car on its wheels (i.e. on wheel ramps) for this job, or up on stands with the weight off the wheels ? Most experts on here seem to recommend doing the job with the weight of the car on its wheels- it makes removal/replacement of these bushes easier that way, apparently (I've never done this job myself, but might tackle it soon).

Pete

BigRuss · 2nd March 2015, 16:30

Why fit the bush onto the arm and then try and bolt it to the subframe when it's under tension ?????

That's certainly one way of making a job a awful lot harder than it needs to be

If the bottom arm is off anyway, bolt the bush to the subframe then slide the arm into the bush it's far easier

Use suitable lube on the bush then a block of wood and a lump hammer and tap it home, if you've marked the arm then it's just a case of tapping it in until the marks line up.

There's enough flex in the bush to get the subframe balljoint in followed by the hub balljoint.

Simples

Russ

EastPete · 2nd March 2015, 16:46

Russ

If you are doing this job with the arms on the car, presumably you recommend doing it on wheel ramps with the weight of the car on the weights - correct ??

One thing that puzzles me slightly is how you get the bushes off the arm once you have got the 18mm bolts out- it does not look as though there is enough room when you drive the bushes backwards to clear the rear of the arm, or can you pull the arms down to allow you to get the bushes off ? You can probably tell I have never done this job, so any tips will be much appreciated.

Thanks

Pete

BigRuss · 2nd March 2015, 16:55

Hi Pete, it's far easier to remove the bottom arms completely, you could spend far longer trying to remove the old bush from the arm whilst it's on the car

The bushes can be a pain to get off, sometimes the only way is to cut through the rubber, seperate the bracket from the arm then cut through the inner steel bad where it fits onto the arm with a hacksaw

Which makes it more difficult working in the restricted confines under the car with the arms on

I've always done it the way I described, off the wheels with the car on stands.

Russ

spaner · 2nd March 2015, 17:47

i had the car on wooden blocks was a bit low, i am replacing bush and wishbone. my bush was realy tight on the wishbone had to use grease, clamps and hot water, i just presumed there suppose to be tight hmm should i have cleaned the wishbone end for a neat fit.
i accessed all bolts from under neath the car apart from slackening the bush bolts found it easier, using a small windy gun helped.

marinabrian · 2nd March 2015, 22:27

I always do this job with the weight of the car on the suspension, ie with the car on ramps.

The first time I carried out the job, I did it on axle stands, and it took me six hours from start to finish and involved many assorted expletives

The second time this job was carried out over an inspection pit, and it took 45 minutes to do both sides

The third and fourth time were carried out on standard ramps, and took 50 minutes, and 35 minutes respectively to do both sides, one after another, yes that really is under an hour and a half to replace both sides on two cars one straight after another

So the trick is really to do the job on ramps

Brian

1st March 2015, 17:59	#1
spaner Newbie mg zt Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: hull Posts: 16 Thanks: 1 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	front bush bolts? replacing the front wishbone and bush is a blooming hard job tight space ect eventualy removed the wishbone and bush but i just cant get the bush bolts lined up, tried allsorts i think i have put the bush to far onto the wishbone and now its stuck as it was a very tight fit. any tips and advice would be apreciated. thanks spaner

2nd March 2015, 16:30	#6
BigRuss Premium Trader 75 CDT Tourer,2.5 Launch Saloon, Omipro MG/Rover (T4) Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Liversedge, West Yorkshire Posts: 5,411 Thanks: 1,105 Thanked 1,340 Times in 661 Posts	Why fit the bush onto the arm and then try and bolt it to the subframe when it's under tension ????? That's certainly one way of making a job a awful lot harder than it needs to be If the bottom arm is off anyway, bolt the bush to the subframe then slide the arm into the bush it's far easier Use suitable lube on the bush then a block of wood and a lump hammer and tap it home, if you've marked the arm then it's just a case of tapping it in until the marks line up. There's enough flex in the bush to get the subframe balljoint in followed by the hub balljoint. Simples Russ __________________ Replacement Key Service http://https://the75andztclub.co.uk/...d.php?t=244732 Full T4 Testbook diagnostics available. Diesel ECU repair and replacement. Options enabled or disabled as required. Diesel X-Power 135 and 160bhp, Rover 1.8T 150 to 160 MG 160 V6 to 177 upgrades available P.M. for details.

2nd March 2015, 16:55	#8
BigRuss Premium Trader 75 CDT Tourer,2.5 Launch Saloon, Omipro MG/Rover (T4) Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Liversedge, West Yorkshire Posts: 5,411 Thanks: 1,105 Thanked 1,340 Times in 661 Posts	Hi Pete, it's far easier to remove the bottom arms completely, you could spend far longer trying to remove the old bush from the arm whilst it's on the car The bushes can be a pain to get off, sometimes the only way is to cut through the rubber, seperate the bracket from the arm then cut through the inner steel bad where it fits onto the arm with a hacksaw Which makes it more difficult working in the restricted confines under the car with the arms on I've always done it the way I described, off the wheels with the car on stands. Russ __________________ Replacement Key Service http://https://the75andztclub.co.uk/...d.php?t=244732 Full T4 Testbook diagnostics available. Diesel ECU repair and replacement. Options enabled or disabled as required. Diesel X-Power 135 and 160bhp, Rover 1.8T 150 to 160 MG 160 V6 to 177 upgrades available P.M. for details. Last edited by BigRuss; 2nd March 2015 at 16:58..

1st March 2015, 18:21	#2
FrenchMike This is my second home Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Avignon Posts: 4,466 Thanks: 94 Thanked 661 Times in 554 Posts	Hi, I got them with this home made tool and by lowering one ich the subframe. outil palier.jpg Good luck Mike

1st March 2015, 18:48	#3
spaner Newbie mg zt Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: hull Posts: 16 Thanks: 1 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	thanks Mike have been using clamps so atleast i am on the right track will lower the frame next, i suppose once i have done one the next will be abit easier.

2nd March 2015, 16:16	#4
spaner Newbie mg zt Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: hull Posts: 16 Thanks: 1 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	finally managed to get the bush bolts in using f-clamp to clamp the bush down so it was flat and then another fclamp to move/pull the bush into place using a mirror and torch to view the bolt holes, worked a treat.

2nd March 2015, 16:25	#5
EastPete Posted a thing or two Rover 75 CDTi Classic saloon, MGB GT, Skoda Yeti Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Ramsey, Cambs Posts: 1,874 Thanks: 626 Thanked 635 Times in 430 Posts	Neil Did you have the car on its wheels (i.e. on wheel ramps) for this job, or up on stands with the weight off the wheels ? Most experts on here seem to recommend doing the job with the weight of the car on its wheels- it makes removal/replacement of these bushes easier that way, apparently (I've never done this job myself, but might tackle it soon). Pete

2nd March 2015, 16:46	#7
EastPete Posted a thing or two Rover 75 CDTi Classic saloon, MGB GT, Skoda Yeti Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Ramsey, Cambs Posts: 1,874 Thanks: 626 Thanked 635 Times in 430 Posts	Russ If you are doing this job with the arms on the car, presumably you recommend doing it on wheel ramps with the weight of the car on the weights - correct ?? One thing that puzzles me slightly is how you get the bushes off the arm once you have got the 18mm bolts out- it does not look as though there is enough room when you drive the bushes backwards to clear the rear of the arm, or can you pull the arms down to allow you to get the bushes off ? You can probably tell I have never done this job, so any tips will be much appreciated. Thanks Pete

2nd March 2015, 17:47	#9
spaner Newbie mg zt Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: hull Posts: 16 Thanks: 1 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	i had the car on wooden blocks was a bit low, i am replacing bush and wishbone. my bush was realy tight on the wishbone had to use grease, clamps and hot water, i just presumed there suppose to be tight hmm should i have cleaned the wishbone end for a neat fit. i accessed all bolts from under neath the car apart from slackening the bush bolts found it easier, using a small windy gun helped.

2nd March 2015, 22:27	#10
marinabrian MG ZT Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne Posts: 20,151 Thanks: 3,565 Thanked 10,837 Times in 5,718 Posts	I always do this job with the weight of the car on the suspension, ie with the car on ramps. The first time I carried out the job, I did it on axle stands, and it took me six hours from start to finish and involved many assorted expletives The second time this job was carried out over an inspection pit, and it took 45 minutes to do *both sides* The third and fourth time were carried out on standard ramps, and took 50 minutes, and 35 minutes respectively to do both sides, one after another, yes that really is under an hour and a half to replace both sides on two cars one straight after another So the trick is really to do the job on ramps Brian