Another Central Locking Issue - Help!

[daveo138]

Apologies in advance for the lengthy post.

Is there a way to test the driver's door lock actuator off the car?

I have what appears to be quite a common issue with my face-lift 75 Tourer. I was aware of the issue before buying the car, as it was mentioned in the advert:-

"The central looking unlocks fine on the button but doesn’t lock remotely unless you first pull and then reinstate fuse 32. After that it works – until the next time the engine is started and switched off after which it stops working again! A highly reputable local ex-Rover main dealer has carried out a diagnostic check and their report says “suspect new driver’s door lock motor is required”.
The doors can still of course still be locked and secured manually, and the moving locking function also works."

Having looked through various posts on the forum regarding this issue, there does appear to be a common theme with the super-locking working again after the fuse has been pulled and reinstated.

I have acquired a used driver's door actuator, supposedly tested and fully working (guaranteed for 3 months). I have tried connecting it to the door wiring to test it - with the latch in the closed position - but it behaves just as the existing one does. The doors will lock and unlock with the button on the console, but the remote button just gives a beep from the alarm sounder. As it's exhibiting the same symptoms, I don't know if the replacement unit is also faulty, or if the fault is actually somewhere else.

I'm aware that there are two motors inside the actuator - one for super-locking and one for normal locking - but the fact that it works after pulling the fuse would suggest that it isn't the lock motor that's the issue, unless I'm missing something.

Any help appreciated.

[stocktake]

also check fuse 36 , may have a bearing on your problem. Other threads make reference to fuses 8 and 15 also costs nothing to check them
https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s....php?p=2582877

https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...59&postcount=8

[daveo138]

Originally Posted by stocktake

also check fuse 36 , may have a bearing on your problem. Other threads make reference to fuses 8 and 15 also costs nothing to check them
https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s....php?p=2582877

https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...59&postcount=8

Thanks for the quick reply.

I did look at fuse 36 - I was hoping for a nice, easy fix but it wasn't to be.

I am getting a bit confused with the fuses. The driver's handbook and Haynes manual give conflicting lists of fuse functions. I think this may be as my car is a Mk2 and Haynes only have info on the Mk1.

[stocktake]

Originally Posted by daveo138

Thanks for the quick reply.

I did look at fuse 36 - I was hoping for a nice, easy fix but it wasn't to be.

I am getting a bit confused with the fuses. The driver's handbook and Haynes manual give conflicting lists of fuse functions. I think this may be as my car is a Mk2 and Haynes only have info on the Mk1.

Hopefully your problem is a blown fuse as most of the posts on here seem to suggest. The second link on my post mentions fuse 8 on the later board. If it were me I would get a cuppa, half an hour and some ibuprofen for my back afterwards and systematically check the fuses with a multimeter for continuity

[Arctic]

Fuse box for 2004 and later.
1

2

PS found the earlier type also.
3

4

More searching the vast photos produced these.
5

6

7

[daveo138]

I've had a grovel on the floor and checked F36 again, this time with a meter rather than by eye. Fuse is OK.

I also checked F8 and that is OK too.

While I was there, I pulled F32 again, so the locking is working until the next time I turn on the ignition.

What I have been doing is pressing the internal lock button to lock the doors, then open the driver's door and lock with the key. This doesn't super-lock or arm the alarm, but it also doesn't lock the fuel filler flap, and with the current price of diesel, that's a bit of a worry

I have considered replacing F32 with a couple of fly leads, an inline fuse and a push-to-break switch, so I can effectively reset the system before getting out and locking the car on the remote.

[The Mighty Quinn]

Might be heading off on the wrong thread here, but I'd suggest that you fit the new/used actuator to see if it works when in place.

Bearing in mind that the alarm sounder will beep if you try and lock the car with the door only half-latched, I expect it won't operate correctly unless it's fitted with the door latch fully home..


Cheers,
Karl.

[stocktake]

Originally Posted by daveo138

I've had a grovel on the floor and checked F36 again, this time with a meter rather than by eye. Fuse is OK.

I also checked F8 and that is OK too.

While I was there, I pulled F32 again, so the locking is working until the next time I turn on the ignition.

What I have been doing is pressing the internal lock button to lock the doors, then open the driver's door and lock with the key. This doesn't super-lock or arm the alarm, but it also doesn't lock the fuel filler flap, and with the current price of diesel, that's a bit of a worry

I have considered replacing F32 with a couple of fly leads, an inline fuse and a push-to-break switch, so I can effectively reset the system before getting out and locking the car on the remote.

i'm pretty certain that i have read on one of the forums / facebook groups that the thing you describe is a failed fuse. not sure which one or where it is situated, i have searched high and low but ill be beggared if i can find it. I would still send half an hour with a meter checking every fuse i could find, costs nothing but time.

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by daveo138

What I have been doing is pressing the internal lock button to lock the doors, then open the driver's door and lock with the key. This doesn't super-lock or arm the alarm, but it also doesn't lock the fuel filler flap ...

Hello Dave,

Using the key blade in the exterior handle lock barrel should superlock the car. You might find this thread interesting.

Originally Posted by daveo138

... I pulled F32 again, so the locking is working until the next time I turn on the ignition.

Fuse 32 in the later fuse box (your car is facelift) is in the battery supply to the BCU logic circuits. This suggests that you may have a multiplex fault.

Simon

[SD1too]

We're in danger of a recurrent guessing game here! Let's go back to what you were told when you bought the car:

Originally Posted by daveo138

"The central looking unlocks fine on the button but doesn’t lock remotely unless you first pull and then reinstate fuse 32 ..."

Fuse 32 is the battery supply (C0660-54) to the BCU logic circuits. The fact that the fault condition is reliably corrected by reseating this fuse suggests that it's not a poor electrical connection (which would be random and unpredictable) but a communication error which is reset by effectively rebooting the BCU.

The driver's door lock sends a "locked" and "unlocked" signal to the BCU from two microswitches (contacts normally open) along separate wires (KN & KW). These are included in connector C0660 which is in the middle position of three black connectors. It has 54 pins in three rows. Try reseating it.

[Fuse 8 is mentioned (post 2). This appears to be in a +12v engine cranking signal between immobiliser and instrument pack so is unlikely to be responsible. Likewise for fuse 15 which is a battery supply to the instrument pack.]

Simon