Remote lazy locking / venting.

[Raistlin]

Originally Posted by stocktake

I am just going to remove the remote boot access from my 4 button and then use twin 5pole relays as we discussed using channels 3 and 4 for open and close, Only 4 more wires to get into the drivers door .

If it's possible to simulate the operation of the OEM switch within the switch pack, you would only need one channel and could save your remote boot release Dave.

I suspect the OEM switch itself merely momentarily applies either 12V or earth, the clever bit being achieved by the gubbins beyond.

I tell you, having had remote boot release now, I'll never part with it

[stocktake]

Originally Posted by Raistlin

If it's possible to simulate the operation of the OEM switch within the switch pack, you would only need one channel and could save your remote boot release Dave.

I suspect the OEM switch itself merely momentarily applies either 12V or earth, the clever bit being achieved by the gubbins beyond.

I tell you, having had remote boot release now, I'll never part with it

Your just trying to get me to buy more buttons on my remote, ...... (Has quick flashback to 70's with the three, four, and even six button waistband on gents trousers).

I await your guidance oh master of all that is remote


Seriously Paul, that bit is beyond little old gasman me

[Raistlin]

Originally Posted by stocktake

Seriously Paul, that bit is beyond little old gasman me

As of yet, it is also beyond me Dave, but I intend for it NOT to be so in the near future

What I suspect is as follows:-

As you know, a momentary press of the OEM switch applies 12 volts, alternately, to each of the two powerfold lines, leaving the other at default earth, for a timed period of several seconds.

My contention is that the switch itself, when pressed, merely momentarily applies either 12 volts or earth to initiate control circuit which does the timed and alternately polarized output which actually drives the mirrors.

If I'm right, then all we need to do is attach a wire to the switch pack PCB at the appropriate point and then use one of the remote channels to provide the momentary stimulus (either +ve or -ve) as required. Which, as we know, is easy.

That way, when you press the corresponding remote channel button, you'll be simulating pressing the OEM button which means each alternate press of the remote will either open or close the mirrors

As Alexandr would say... simples (I hope)

[stocktake]

Originally Posted by Raistlin

As of yet, it is also beyond me Dave, but I intend for it NOT to be so in the near future

What I suspect is as follows:-

As you know, a momentary press of the OEM switch applies 12 volts, alternately, to each of the two powerfold lines, leaving the other at default earth, for a timed period of several seconds.

My contention is that the switch itself, when pressed, merely momentarily applies either 12 volts or earth to initiate control circuit which does the timed and alternately polarized output which actually drives the mirrors.

If I'm right, then all we need to do is attach a wire to the switch pack PCB at the appropriate point and then use one of the remote channels to provide the momentary stimulus (either +ve or -ve) as required. Which, as we know, is easy.

That way, when you press the corresponding remote channel button, you'll be simulating pressing the OEM button which means each alternate press of the remote will either open or close the mirrors

As Alexandr would say... simples (I hope)

I can follow that.

What I can see compounding the issue, is the fact that that circuit is also disabled a short time after the ign key is removed.

[Raistlin]

Originally Posted by stocktake

I can follow that.

What I can see compounding the issue, is the fact that that circuit is also disabled a short time after the ign key is removed.

It might be the ultimate stopper, I agree.

In which case, I'll investigate the possibilities of doing exactly the same thing but downstream of the switch pack, relaying the switch pack completely out of the circuit, much the same as the idea we had using relays but only using one remote channel instead of two. After all, I need to conserve my channels

Timing is no problem, I already have a cute little timer circuit incorporated in the remote channel which controls the FBH. I'm sure alternate polarity switching shouldn't be beyond our capability

[phenonix]

This is the issue i had with the sunroof remote, i was waiting here for a fix, i was going to splice in the bcu (think the one in the roof is called something different)
i bought a second remote so was hoping to do powerfolds and sunroof, although the sunroof has 3 movements, open/close/tilt, also i have Eurorovers box with will either make it harder or easier

[phenonix]

Quote:
Originally Posted by gmax333
Which device is needed fob/reciever wise as the orginal ebay links no longer work. Cheers

I used this one ( 4th one down )

http://www.quasaruk.co.uk/acatalog/R...l_Systems.html
__________________

thats the second one i bought

[gmax333]

Originally Posted by Raistlin

THIS is the one I'm using.




It is illegal to have a vehicle unattended with the engine running on a public highway or other public place in the UK even though Clifford alarms et al will provide, so I won't be doing that, but yes, it can be done.

I would be sitting in the car before i used it honest 'guv. That was the thing i liked most about that Rover 200 Coupe was the remote start I assume it wasn't fitted by the Luton Cowboy as it always worked nicely . Cheers. Gary.

[phenonix]

Resurrecting this thread, I'm upgrading to the Quasar Electronics 3181 TEN channel setup

Remote operated powerfolds are a must, of course... but what else?

thats the remote i sent you a pm about, but i dont think i explained myself properly, the picture 0f the 10 channel shows unpopulated pins, thats what threw me off, but on contacting the Aussie supplier he informed they populate them

[Raistlin]

Originally Posted by gmax333

I would be sitting in the car before i used it honest 'guv. That was the thing i liked most about that Rover 200 Coupe was the remote start I assume it wasn't fitted by the Luton Cowboy as it always worked nicely . Cheers. Gary.

I don't beleeeeeeve you Gary

You are right in your assumption.

If you think about it, remotely starting the engine, whilst I wouldn't do it, (certainly not in a manual car) would be remarkably easy.