|
||
|
17th June 2011, 08:23 | #1 |
Regular poster
02 ZT KV6 160 Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Maybole
Posts: 44
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Engine noise - any suggestions?
Hi Folks,
I've cross-posted this on toher forums so some of you mayhave already read, and cintributed to this. OK Folks, this is the continuining saga of my rattle. Under load, I'm getting a tappet-like rattle. It ONLY happens under load, I could red-line the engine in neutral and all would sound fine. Here's what the noise definately is NOT; VIS - have swapped out a gutted manifold and the noise remains. Alternator/power steering pump - have removed drive belt and the noise remains. Purge valve - have unplugged it and the noise remains. It's not a knocking noise, it's a tappety/fluttery/mechanically kind of 'Tttrrrrrr' noise. It's made the nosie since I bought it back in March 2009 so I'm fairly convinced that it's not pinking as my engine would be a pile of scrap by now if that was the case. I've also briefly unplugged the knock sensors to see if taking them out of the equation made any difference. It didn't. It's had a few oil changes, most recently flushing it with Forte. No change. I've removed all of the tappets, cleaned them/freed them up and reassembled. No change. Also, wouldn't tappets be noisy all the time? I removed the tappets when I was changng the belts and I changed everything apart from the tensioner as I was supplied a duff part and I've not had a chance to re-do it yet. Feels fine with regards to general performance and I consistently get 29-31mpg average over a tank. How do 'serious' noises like worn big ends etc manifest themselves? Are they more of a solid knocking noise? I see that there are youtube links on the forum to various noises, but I've got practically no 'net access in the house and youtube is blocked at work. Any suggestions would be appreciated. |
17th June 2011, 15:34 | #2 |
Loves to post
75 tourer auto diesel Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Nordelph, nr Downham Market
Posts: 419
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
If its done a load of miles, possibly low oil pressure related? Could be tappets not getting enough oil or the wrong viscosity. Cannot be bearings if you have had it from 2009. Tappets can do "funny things" re oil viscosity. They rattle so you put thicker oil in but no better. But, if you put thinner oil in which does not sound logical, the noise stops.
Could it be transmission related? Only happens under load and thus moving. I note you said freed them up! If they were gummed up due to no oil changes you could have an oil flow problem. Others may comment on this as I do not know the engine. Some engines have a non return valve in the block to stop oil running back from the top end. Possibly gummed up?. I had this on a Rover 2600 and not enough oil was getting to the top end. Does the top end look clean when you take the oil filler off? If its black its not had frequent oil changes. |
17th June 2011, 19:36 | #3 |
Regular poster
02 ZT KV6 160 Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Maybole
Posts: 44
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Thanks for the pointers. It's had at least five, possibly six oil changes since I bought it. When I was working on the tappets, there was plenty of oil pooling around the cam carriers so I don't think that it's a supply problem. The oil was quite black, but it was due a change.
The tappets were a bit 'weird' in as much as upon removal, 20 of them were actually solid and I had to actually work them in a vice using a small socket to free them up. I wasn't able to strip these ones down to give them a total clean but they got cycled numerous times, flushed out with brake cleaner and flushed out with clean engine oil. With regards to the four that I was able to strip down, I was able to bottom them out once they were re-assembled so I wasn't sure if I'd overdone the cleaning on them? I didn't mix any of the parts up so I'm happy that this isn't the issue. To be honest, I'm still suspecting the tappets due to the 20 that I couldn't strip. I need to change the cam seals at some piont so I may as well pull the tappets out and either have another go at cleaning them or replace all of them (likely cost of 24 tappets - £120 ). Transmission noise is an interesting possibility. I think I'm just blinkered on it being the tappets as that's the only thing I can think of that sounds like what I'm hearing. |
17th June 2011, 21:00 | #4 |
This is my second home
Rover 75 cdt club + Rover 2.5 KV6 Conni SE Join Date: May 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 11,429
Thanks: 6,587
Thanked 2,262 Times in 1,729 Posts
|
How about the inlet manifold?
__________________
Great Barr, Birmingham. |
18th June 2011, 10:29 | #5 | ||
Avid contributor
MG ZT190+, MG ZT160(V6)Retired Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Surrey
Posts: 162
Thanks: 5
Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
|
Quote:
Quote:
Could it be the tensioner, which you didn't replace? Last edited by MGMalc; 18th June 2011 at 10:34.. |
||
18th June 2011, 10:35 | #6 |
Loves to post
MG EXPRESS Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: STOURBRIDGE
Posts: 439
Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
|
Cambelt idlers ?
|
18th June 2011, 10:45 | #7 | |
Posted a thing or two
mgzt 160 1.8 lpg Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: newcastle upon tyne
Posts: 1,973
Thanks: 5
Thanked 72 Times in 64 Posts
|
Quote:
__________________
http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/...0/Photo389.jpg |
|
19th June 2011, 19:02 | #8 |
Regular poster
02 ZT KV6 160 Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Maybole
Posts: 44
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
I'm definately suspicious about the tappets. My confusion comes from people telling me that if a tappet is on the bench and is dry then I SHOULD be able to bottom it out with finger pressure. Come back screw-and-locknut, all is forgiven! When I say that the others were solid, then I mean SOLID. A tappet shouldn't be that resistant to moving should it? Plus if they were that rigid then surely they'd be holding valves open???
I'll get around to swapping out the tensioner when I get around to changing the cam seals sometime this year. I'll either replace the tappets at that time or have another go at cleaning them. Annoyingly if this sures the noise then I won't be able to pinpoint what it was as I'll have changed both of the suspects! Tempting to just do the tappets and then re-assemble it all for a test drive, but that doubles the length of the job as I'll need to strip it back down again to a degree in order to change the tensioner |
20th June 2011, 13:32 | #9 | |
Gets stuck in
MG ZT-T Trophy Blue CDTI Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Milton Keynes
Posts: 883
Thanks: 11
Thanked 25 Times in 18 Posts
|
Quote:
I had this problem on a VW golf many years ago and as the owner had little cash for the repair we put a tin of "forte" engine flush into it and put it out side the workshop to tick over (fast about 1400 rpm by adjusting the throttle cable!!) for a bit !! the noise was causing all of us to twich by the time something happened about 90 mins later!! the noise just faded away!! lovely!! took about 90/120 seconds to go quiet as first one then another freed off!! by the time it had finished going silent all 5 of us were standing by it grinning with our hands on our hips!! wizzed it in to the work shop did the oil and filter refilled it and started it !! it just purred!! The owner had brought the car to us after the main agent had told him how much it was going to cost!! - he couldnt really afford for us to do it either even though we charged about 1/2 the amount per hour VW did so I offered to try the flush "cure" for the price of an oil and filter change with the flush also of course! - 30 mins labour + oil flush + oil and filter made him a very happy bunny at 5-30 and gained us a customer for the next 5 years untill he moved away!! + loads of recomends he sent round!! Just a thought!! might be worth a try!! - I personally ALWAYS use a flush when doing an oil/filter change these days partly due to the above experiance!! If you still have them out of the car?? immerse the tappets in some paint thinners/carb cleaner or the like overnight before you try and strip them!! If you have had 4 of them apart then you know how to get the rest apart!! if you have to get a bit heavy handed thats ok as long as you can strip and clean them eventually!! lets face it!! if you cant strip them or you damage them trying then you need to replace them anyway!! - you can - not that I would recomend it of course!! - just replace as many as you cant strip/clean if moneys a bit tight!!! HTH?? Andy Last edited by Trophy Blue Tourer; 20th June 2011 at 16:29.. |
|
20th June 2011, 19:40 | #10 | |
This is my second home
R75 Saloon. Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: France/or Devon.
Posts: 14,003
Thanks: 3,851
Thanked 2,167 Times in 1,816 Posts
|
Quote:
Main bearing deeper more solid clunk. From the crankcase area. Piston slap. Higher pitched sort of rattle under load. From middle of engine. Colvert. |
|
|
|