Much benefit from simply changing door speakers?

Tenesmus · 27th July 2016, 23:02

I'm after a bit more bass, the OE seems a bit light. A subwoofer is a last resort, so is there much to be gained by changing the door speakers for the same size but better units? Or... can bigger be fitted without too much pain?

coolcat · 28th July 2016, 19:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tenesmus

I'm after a bit more bass, the OE seems a bit light. A subwoofer is a last resort, so is there much to be gained by changing the door speakers for the same size but better units? Or... can bigger be fitted without too much pain?

Certainly a decent set of components will improve the sound quality and also using some sound deadening material will also help matters.

The speakers are 165mm and there aren't really many larger choices out there in component form.

If you really want bass reinforcement though a subwoofer really is something for you to look into and of course used in conjunction with an improved front speaker system should give you a nicely balanced, tight and forceful sound stage

aircub · 28th July 2016, 19:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tenesmus

I'm after a bit more bass, the OE seems a bit light. A subwoofer is a last resort, so is there much to be gained by changing the door speakers for the same size but better units? Or... can bigger be fitted without too much pain?

Fitted a small Kenwood undersea Subwoofer in the boot in place of the CD changer. Its small but made one hell of a difference to the sound in the car.

Kenwood Under Seat Subwoofer
(Could not fit it under the seat as I have electric seats and no room)

Tenesmus · 31st July 2016, 11:43

Well, I would but a) the CD changer normally fits there but b) I've taken it out as there's a rain leak that goes right on and into it so I need to get that fixed first... I did think about one of those underseat jobs over on the other side of the boot where that recess is.

directstep · 31st July 2016, 15:19

1. Get a decent but not OTT set of components for the Front Doors. Sound Deaden doors (30-50%) and cover big holes as best you can. Dispense with the oem foam sheet. Fix speakers in with MDF baffles if possible with moisture guard behind. This should give you some nice tight mid-bass/lower mids. Best results will be achieved using a small 2-way Amp (40-50 watt rms per channel) - this will fit nicely under the glove box completely out of sight. (easy to wire in from there as well)
2. Optionally add an "under-seat" mini subwoofer. Obviously one of these will not be like a big SubWoofer in the boot, but remember this.... the object is to end up with a solid, seamless sound, not in most cases booming bass.
There are several decent ones around, Kenwood, Pioneer etc. What these will do is fill in just below the components..... * most people really do not need or want Big Low Bass. It's a misconception easily spread. Big subwoofers in the boot of 75s/ZTs can be a pig to set-up because the cabins are so well cocooned and the sound can struggle to come through and give an integrated sound.

Tenesmus · 2nd August 2016, 17:41

The first option is interesting. The second not so much, as underseat speakers don't fit under electric seats, as far as I'm aware... hence putting in the boot, but your point about not being able to hear it too well is taken.

27th July 2016, 23:02	#1
Tenesmus Loves to post Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Penzance Posts: 481 Thanks: 17 Thanked 69 Times in 52 Posts	Much benefit from simply changing door speakers? I'm after a bit more bass, the OE seems a bit light. A subwoofer is a last resort, so is there much to be gained by changing the door speakers for the same size but better units? Or... can bigger be fitted without too much pain? __________________ 2005 Connoisseur 2.5 auto SE Tourer in BRG with Sandstone Beige and Black piping interior (the 2nd of only 7 Rover 75s produced 5th November 2004, and it’s the 244th of 303 facelift British Racing Green 75 tourers built worldwide). All I've done is add Rover walnut gear knob and handbrake... 2016 Vauxhall Viva SL (Father Jack) "assisted manual" (auto) in purple. Going rusty underneath already...

31st July 2016, 11:43	#4
Tenesmus Loves to post Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Penzance Posts: 481 Thanks: 17 Thanked 69 Times in 52 Posts	Well, I would but a) the CD changer normally fits there but b) I've taken it out as there's a rain leak that goes right on and into it so I need to get that fixed first... I did think about one of those underseat jobs over on the other side of the boot where that recess is. __________________ 2005 Connoisseur 2.5 auto SE Tourer in BRG with Sandstone Beige and Black piping interior (the 2nd of only 7 Rover 75s produced 5th November 2004, and it’s the 244th of 303 facelift British Racing Green 75 tourers built worldwide). All I've done is add Rover walnut gear knob and handbrake... 2016 Vauxhall Viva SL (Father Jack) "assisted manual" (auto) in purple. Going rusty underneath already...

2nd August 2016, 17:41	#6
Tenesmus Loves to post Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Penzance Posts: 481 Thanks: 17 Thanked 69 Times in 52 Posts	The first option is interesting. The second not so much, as underseat speakers don't fit under electric seats, as far as I'm aware... hence putting in the boot, but your point about not being able to hear it too well is taken. __________________ 2005 Connoisseur 2.5 auto SE Tourer in BRG with Sandstone Beige and Black piping interior (the 2nd of only 7 Rover 75s produced 5th November 2004, and it’s the 244th of 303 facelift British Racing Green 75 tourers built worldwide). All I've done is add Rover walnut gear knob and handbrake... 2016 Vauxhall Viva SL (Father Jack) "assisted manual" (auto) in purple. Going rusty underneath already...

31st July 2016, 15:19	#5
directstep Loves to post MG ZT 190+ Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Bristol Posts: 398 Thanks: 109 Thanked 51 Times in 45 Posts	1. Get a decent but not OTT set of components for the Front Doors. Sound Deaden doors (30-50%) and cover big holes as best you can. Dispense with the oem foam sheet. Fix speakers in with MDF baffles if possible with moisture guard behind. This should give you some nice tight mid-bass/lower mids. Best results will be achieved using a small 2-way Amp (40-50 watt rms per channel) - this will fit nicely under the glove box completely out of sight. (easy to wire in from there as well) 2. Optionally add an "under-seat" mini subwoofer. Obviously one of these will not be like a big SubWoofer in the boot, but remember this.... the object is to end up with a solid, seamless sound, not in most cases booming bass. There are several decent ones around, Kenwood, Pioneer etc. What these will do is fill in just below the components..... * most people really do not need or want Big Low Bass. It's a misconception easily spread. Big subwoofers in the boot of 75s/ZTs can be a pig to set-up because the cabins are so well cocooned and the sound can struggle to come through and give an integrated sound.