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9th December 2013, 12:43 | #1 |
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Traction Control (and removal)
I've googled and googled and found various threads on this topic but none seem to solve my problem. So;
Problem is intermittent lighting up of traction control warning light. Sometimes lights up on start up, sometimes during driving. It then remains on for the rest of the journey. Secondary throttle plate is free moving, as is the cable. Actuator seems to work normally, but intermittently. I understand that disassembly is the next step to see if any gears are missing teeth. However; A) How would this explain the warning light coming on during driving (when no traction control is required). B) Is there anything else it could be such as the ECU or the ABS sensors? C) Should I just try and get a replacement part and swap them over, seeing as it's probably broken actuator teeth? The easiest thing to me seems to be to remove the TC altogether. How does this affect the MOT? I understand it is now a requirement for the MOT but if I remove the TC actuator, secondary throttle plate and internal switch plus the bulb how would they ever know? Any experience on this? For what it's worth I think the traction control is utterly pointless. The 180bhp is hardly tricky to control, especially with so little low down torque! |
9th December 2013, 13:12 | #2 |
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Hi
I had very similar issue with my 190, intermittent TC with light staying on or sometimes staying off. The TC does a self test every time switch on ignition so if it doesn't work then it will stay in error mode until next attempt. First check all cable and secondary throttle butterfly are free moving with no binding if cable. Second check actuator motor output gear is free with no missing teeth. If there all ok there are two fuses for TC system, one a control the other power. My issue was a loose or bad connection with power fuse for the motor which is under glove box. I will have look for my write up later.
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9th December 2013, 13:24 | #3 |
I really should get out more.......
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At the price this one is: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1162548-cr...item19e5bae15d I'd replace and then you can take the old one to bits, perhaps rescue and have a spare.
You'll have to swop the cable over though as the BMW one is too short. Regards |
9th December 2013, 13:25 | #4 |
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If you slip open the cover plate at the top of th actuator, you can see the teeth on the gear. If you then release the cable from the secondary throttle so that the inner is free, you can then move the gear carefully against the internal wind up spring and view all the teeth in turn, that at least should answer your question as to whether it is the gear at fault.
If you do not want TC, then once the self test has occured at start, then a single push of the Switch Button should cancel it, but only for that post start period. It will engage again, next time. |
9th December 2013, 14:56 | #5 |
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MrShed; everything appears to be free moving. The actuator itself is intermittent, sometimes it works, sometimes not. I've just dismantled it and all the teeth not he gears are in good condition with none missing. It doesn't appear to be that. I think it may be an intermittent electrical fault like yours.
Vitesse; that's a good price. I've bought it to see whether it's the cause of the problem, so thanks for the link! If not I'm sure it will re sell. Kwik; the gears unfortunately all look in decent condition but I've bought the replacement actuator anyway. So we will see if the replacement works. Failing that, I will remove all traces of the traction control system and remove the bulb. Anyone know if they're likely to spot this come MOT time? It wasn't standard on 75s anyway so how would they know? |
9th December 2013, 20:02 | #6 |
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Simonej,
Why don't you get the actuator, cable and secondary throttle together and adjusted correctly and have a look for the potential electrical fault. The system is fairly basic withTC ECU, power supplies, motor and potentiometer for secondary throttle body. Take both fuses out and clean or replace them, maybe bend tangs slightly to ensure good connection, as a first pass be easier than removing it all. The other part is the ECU is set up to work with TC in place so codes and faults will always be registered, obviously this might not bother you if the bulb is removed LOL.
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10th December 2013, 08:38 | #7 |
Precise
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There is one potential area which is not listed above. The TC system relies upon the front wheel sensors both working, if you have an intermittent contact in that area you would not notice say a blip on the speedo (O/S error) but the traction control would think that wheel has stopped. Check and clean both N/S and O/S blue connectors?
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15th December 2013, 11:08 | #8 |
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Well the new actuator arrived and worked beautifully.......for about five minutes until the light came on.
So, back to square one and perhaps time to look at the the ABS sensors then? I've not seen any blips on the speedo or had any ABS warnings. Any ideas? Otherwise I'm going to pull everything out and hope they don't notice at the MOT, if they do it'll be another 75 off to the great scrapyard in the sky for something completely unnecessary - a win for the EU and their plan to rid us of polluting, old cars! |
16th December 2013, 07:13 | #9 | |
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Quote:
Hope this helps Brian |
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16th December 2013, 08:52 | #10 |
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Thanks, Brian. Having found out the instrument cluster is actually LEDs and not accessible I think this might be the best option if I can't sort it.
How much is this likely to cost for a T4 session and any idea where the nearest T4 would be to Wakefield? |
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