Can I wax too much?? - Page 2

rovexCDTi · 11th November 2012, 14:03

Quick detailers are designed so that you dont need to wax every time you wash. Just wash, allow to dry (mostly) and spray on the QD, buff off with a towel. Done and protected.

GT Courier · 11th November 2012, 17:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by rovexCDTi

Quick detailers are designed so that you dont need to wax every time you wash. Just wash, allow to dry (mostly) and spray on the QD, buff off with a towel. Done and protected.

Are there implications to using something like Autoglym SRP too much?

Just thought I'd ask...

GJBridge · 11th November 2012, 17:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by rovexCDTi

Quick detailers are designed so that you dont need to wax every time you wash. Just wash, allow to dry (mostly) and spray on the QD, buff off with a towel. Done and protected.

I'm using Quick Detailer, that you recommended, and it's brilliant, but I'm enjoying the waxing bit - thinking time!
The only bit I'm not happy with is the drying - that I find tedious!!

And an especial thank you to next door for having a bonfire, within an hour of me waxing - ******* black smuts!!

MangoMan · 11th November 2012, 17:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by rovexCDTi

Quick detailers are designed so that you dont need to wax every time you wash. Just wash, allow to dry (mostly) and spray on the QD, buff off with a towel. Done and protected.

This is what I've always done with my car - and going by what people say I must be doing something right!

I've actually only given it a 'proper' wax once in nearly 2 years......

NB. But to answer your question, I believe you can over-wax, especially with heavy waxes. You will find that good valeters will always 'strip' a paint finish before applying a fresh wax coat. This can be done by using something like this: http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product...Q=EJII&Range=1

danbmx_69 · 11th November 2012, 17:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by GT Courier

Are there implications to using something like Autoglym SRP too much?

Just thought I'd ask...

SRP is just a polish really, and i think its pontless polishing the car if your not going to then wax it on top to sort of lock in your polish if you get me?maby rovexCDTi will correct me on this

rovexCDTi · 11th November 2012, 17:52

SRP is slightly abrasive so over use isnt recommended. Really if your top coat wax or sealant is good you shouldn't need to keep using SRP. SRP is part of the prep stage so all you need to do is re-apply your wax or sealant when it starts to break down, usually signified by the beading starting to fail.

I see SRP or similar products as a product that only needs using once a year under normal conditions. If you live in a very dirty area like near a busy railway or where there is regular soot or fires then more often may be needed.

Because SRP is abrasive it will remove everything you have applied previously, unless it was a ceramic sealant, so you need to wax over the top every time you use it.

Tim_Burgess · 15th November 2012, 10:12

It's all down to the product. I like Prima Banana Gloss Wax it gives a cracking result in no time, especially on dark cars, but it doesn't last more than about 6 weeks. I guess the other factor is the severity of the climate where you live and whether you garage the car.

For instance, Rovex lives in Devon and I live in West Scotland 100 metres from the sea so I guess the conditions for my cars are a tad harsher.

I've just re-done a customer's BMW 330Ci that I polished and sealed using SSR's own-brand long-life sealant in October 2010.

In the 2 years since I did it last he has just washed it with a mitt and dried with a towel. NO shampoo, waxing or use of QDs in the intervening time according to the customer. The water was still sheeting off nicely but wasn't beading very much. Always an indication that maybe it needs doing again.

Personally, I like to rejuvinate the bling with a QD now and again, and my QD weapons of choice are either, the one I get via SSR or Meguiars #135.

rovexCDTi · 15th November 2012, 11:42

Oh Devon is a dirty old place believe me! I agree though, and prep makes all the difference. If you wax over unprepared paint it will just fall off or fail, but smooth newly exposed paint will be more resistant if its top coated well.

Tim_Burgess · 15th November 2012, 19:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by rovexCDTi

Oh Devon is a dirty old place believe me! I agree though, and prep makes all the difference.

Oh! it's not that bad really. I lived just up the road in Bristol for 45 of my 50 years.

Totally agree, as with anything, the quality of the prep will determine the quality of the finish.

James_Death · 17th November 2012, 16:00

5 coats seams to be optimum then your just stripping the other layers.

Your free to wax as often as you wish tins of wax last years and years even waxing each week you got to be looking at 1 to 2 years from a pot.

Did winter protection to my bodywork and full strip fallout remover de tar clayed bilt hamber cleanser liquid and bilt hamber finis wax.

11th November 2012, 14:03	#11
rovexCDTi This is my second home MG ZT+ 135 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Exeter Posts: 3,626 Thanks: 9 Thanked 42 Times in 26 Posts	Quick detailers are designed so that you dont need to wax every time you wash. Just wash, allow to dry (mostly) and spray on the QD, buff off with a towel. Done and protected. __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

11th November 2012, 17:52	#16
rovexCDTi This is my second home MG ZT+ 135 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Exeter Posts: 3,626 Thanks: 9 Thanked 42 Times in 26 Posts	SRP is slightly abrasive so over use isnt recommended. Really if your top coat wax or sealant is good you shouldn't need to keep using SRP. SRP is part of the prep stage so all you need to do is re-apply your wax or sealant when it starts to break down, usually signified by the beading starting to fail. I see SRP or similar products as a product that only needs using once a year under normal conditions. If you live in a very dirty area like near a busy railway or where there is regular soot or fires then more often may be needed. Because SRP is abrasive it will remove everything you have applied previously, unless it was a ceramic sealant, so you need to wax over the top every time you use it. __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Last edited by rovexCDTi; 11th November 2012 at 17:56..

15th November 2012, 10:12	#17
Tim_Burgess This is my second home 1999 75 Connoisseur SE 2.5, 2000 75 Classic SE 2.0, 2012 Lancia Delta 3, 2016 Dacia Sandero Ambiance Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Kilcreggan Posts: 3,191 Thanks: 334 Thanked 334 Times in 162 Posts	It's all down to the product. I like Prima Banana Gloss Wax it gives a cracking result in no time, especially on dark cars, but it doesn't last more than about 6 weeks. I guess the other factor is the severity of the climate where you live and whether you garage the car. For instance, Rovex lives in Devon and I live in West Scotland 100 metres from the sea so I guess the conditions for my cars are a tad harsher. I've just re-done a customer's BMW 330Ci that I polished and sealed using SSR's own-brand long-life sealant in October 2010. In the 2 years since I did it last he has just washed it with a mitt and dried with a towel. NO shampoo, waxing or use of QDs in the intervening time according to the customer. The water was still sheeting off nicely but wasn't beading very much. Always an indication that maybe it needs doing again. Personally, I like to rejuvinate the bling with a QD now and again, and my QD weapons of choice are either, the one I get via SSR or Meguiars #135. __________________ *The fact there's a highway to hell and only a stairway to heaven says a lot about anticipated traffic numbers.*.

15th November 2012, 11:42	#18
rovexCDTi This is my second home MG ZT+ 135 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Exeter Posts: 3,626 Thanks: 9 Thanked 42 Times in 26 Posts	Oh Devon is a dirty old place believe me! I agree though, and prep makes all the difference. If you wax over unprepared paint it will just fall off or fail, but smooth newly exposed paint will be more resistant if its top coated well. __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

17th November 2012, 16:00	#20
James_Death Gets stuck in EX.2001 Rover 75 Conn SE 2.0, CDT,155 Brake, BRG Join Date: May 2010 Location: Doncaster Posts: 733 Thanks: 0 Thanked 6 Times in 5 Posts	5 coats seams to be optimum then your just stripping the other layers. Your free to wax as often as you wish tins of wax last years and years even waxing each week you got to be looking at 1 to 2 years from a pot. Did winter protection to my bodywork and full strip fallout remover de tar clayed bilt hamber cleanser liquid and bilt hamber finis wax.