Water pump query K series

ballymenaman · 23rd October 2012, 17:24

Just about to order a timing belt and tensioner for my newly acquired 75 1.8T. Car has 40k on clock. I'm just wondering if I should replace the water pump at the same time as a precaution? No sign of failure at all. Are they prone to fail with age or is it mileage that does the damage? I have also noticed that there is some coolant loss. There is staining down the pipe running downwards from the plastic 'T' pipe behind the radiator - is this a common leaky point? There is no sign of overheating or HGF by the way.

sworks · 23rd October 2012, 18:52

The plastic T piece is a weak point that can leak and needs looking at. On my own car I changed the cam belt and left the water pump but anybody elses I would reccomend doing at the same time, the belt drives the pump so would need to be removed again if done seperately

kaiser · 23rd October 2012, 19:04

If you are in there already, it is prudent to replace the waterpump, idler and tensioner as well.
That does not guarantee anything, but at least you have done what can be done.
The waterpumps are not good, and premature failures (leaks) are frequent.

T-Cut · 23rd October 2012, 21:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by ballymenaman

There is staining down the pipe running downwards from the plastic 'T' pipe behind the radiator - is this a common leaky point?

Do a word search for 'Gerry-T' and you'll find what's being done about this leaky bit.

TC

mick160 · 24th October 2012, 07:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by ballymenaman

Just about to order a timing belt and tensioner for my newly acquired 75 1.8T. Car has 40k on clock. I'm just wondering if I should replace the water pump at the same time as a precaution? No sign of failure at all. Are they prone to fail with age or is it mileage that does the damage? I have also noticed that there is some coolant loss. There is staining down the pipe running downwards from the plastic 'T' pipe behind the radiator - is this a common leaky point? There is no sign of overheating or HGF by the way.

I would change the water pump while the timing belt is off. For the sake of 20 to 30 quid and an extra few minutes its not worth leaving it. Plus it has been known for old pumps to fail shortly after a new timing belt has been fitted - don't know why, maybe its the extra tension of a new belt putting a strain on the shaft or maybe its just sods law

The T pieces are a known weak point - I just changed mine for a new oe one but a stainless/alloy alternative is better. I think a member is looking into getting some alloy ones made at the moment (I think its yella fella). Also check the hoses to the T piece- after changing my T I noticed the top hose had gone porous and coolant was seeping out once it was up to pressure.

Hope this helps.

mick160 · 24th October 2012, 08:00

Yep, its yella fella. Here's the thread;

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ighlight=gerry

stevestrat · 24th October 2012, 08:51

When I bought my 75 I was told the timing belt had been done recently but days after getting the car it started losing water, culprit was the water pump which garage replaced FOC. Seems a new timing belt puts a strain on the water pump that it can't handle.

stugee · 24th October 2012, 09:22

For the sake of £56 for the belt, tensioner and pump I would just go the whole hog

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3209094551...84.m1423.l2649

pab · 24th October 2012, 10:20

I would definatly change the Water Pump and the belt Tensioner while your in the vacinity. If you can stretch to the extra cost of a genuine Pump, do so.

ballymenaman · 24th October 2012, 22:22

Thanks folks. Have ordered genuine rover belt, tensioner and W pump for £65. Thought it was reasonable. Will defo consider the alloy 'T'. Thanks for all the help.

23rd October 2012, 17:24	#1
ballymenaman Avid contributor 75 Contemporary SE 2.5 V6 Auto, Rover 45, classic mini and E Niro Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Ballymena, Northern Ireland Posts: 239 Thanks: 25 Thanked 19 Times in 17 Posts	Water pump query K series Just about to order a timing belt and tensioner for my newly acquired 75 1.8T. Car has 40k on clock. I'm just wondering if I should replace the water pump at the same time as a precaution? No sign of failure at all. Are they prone to fail with age or is it mileage that does the damage? I have also noticed that there is some coolant loss. There is staining down the pipe running downwards from the plastic 'T' pipe behind the radiator - is this a common leaky point? There is no sign of overheating or HGF by the way.

23rd October 2012, 18:52	#2
sworks This is my second home Rover 75 Tourer, Classic mini Cooper S, Abarth 595 competizione, MG TF and a Hyundai Tucson PHEV Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Cumbria Posts: 13,073 Thanks: 1,033 Thanked 1,686 Times in 1,040 Posts	The plastic T piece is a weak point that can leak and needs looking at. On my own car I changed the cam belt and left the water pump but anybody elses I would reccomend doing at the same time, the belt drives the pump so would need to be removed again if done seperately __________________ ................................................. 'Marmite' Possibly one of the most famous 75 tourers produced! left the production line as the last of only Three Rover 75 tourers produced in Trophy Yellow. 48 hours later Longbridge closed. The last sold ordered 75 Tourer. Paid for by the Phoenix Four and handed over by John Towers to the Warwickshire Northampton Air ambulance service as a Rapid Response vehicle

24th October 2012, 08:51	#7
stevestrat This is my second home ZT260 #243 (resting) Join Date: May 2010 Location: Prestonpans Posts: 22,558 Thanks: 650 Thanked 4,624 Times in 3,358 Posts	When I bought my 75 I was told the timing belt had been done recently but days after getting the car it started losing water, culprit was the water pump which garage replaced FOC. Seems a new timing belt puts a strain on the water pump that it can't handle. __________________ Steve T4 Location Map

23rd October 2012, 19:04	#3
kaiser This is my second home 75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Johannesburg ZA Posts: 6,200 Thanks: 1 Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts	If you are in there already, it is prudent to replace the waterpump, idler and tensioner as well. That does not guarantee anything, but at least you have done what can be done. The waterpumps are not good, and premature failures (leaks) are frequent.

24th October 2012, 08:00	#6
mick160 Loves to post MG ZT 1.8t Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Northumberland Posts: 495 Thanks: 48 Thanked 53 Times in 44 Posts	Yep, its yella fella. Here's the thread; http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ighlight=gerry

24th October 2012, 09:22	#8
stugee Avid contributor MG ZT+ 1.8T Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: West Lothian Posts: 249 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	For the sake of £56 for the belt, tensioner and pump I would just go the whole hog http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3209094551...84.m1423.l2649

24th October 2012, 10:20	#9
pab Banned MG ZT V6 190+ Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Leeds Posts: 33,223 Thanks: 41 Thanked 1,614 Times in 1,416 Posts	I would definatly change the Water Pump and the belt Tensioner while your in the vacinity. If you can stretch to the extra cost of a genuine Pump, do so.

24th October 2012, 22:22	#10
ballymenaman Avid contributor 75 Contemporary SE 2.5 V6 Auto, Rover 45, classic mini and E Niro Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Ballymena, Northern Ireland Posts: 239 Thanks: 25 Thanked 19 Times in 17 Posts	Thanks folks. Have ordered genuine rover belt, tensioner and W pump for £65. Thought it was reasonable. Will defo consider the alloy 'T'. Thanks for all the help.