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#11 | |
This is my second home
fiat panda Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: haverhill
Posts: 6,720
Thanks: 96
Thanked 586 Times in 526 Posts
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fiat panda 1.2 eco |
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#12 |
This is my second home
CDTi Conniosseur SE HLNav Tourer and a Personal Line CDT Conniosseur SE Tourer..for the time being. Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 3,639
Thanks: 340
Thanked 423 Times in 294 Posts
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![]() Thanks all for the help. Found the discount carparts4 less site; thanks for that. Also found some "genuine" rover ones on ebay for £78 from College Motors.
Is this supplier okay? ie are these really "genuine" rover parts? |
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#13 | |
This is my second home
fiat panda Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: haverhill
Posts: 6,720
Thanks: 96
Thanked 586 Times in 526 Posts
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fiat panda 1.2 eco |
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#14 |
This is my second home
CDTi Conniosseur SE HLNav Tourer and a Personal Line CDT Conniosseur SE Tourer..for the time being. Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 3,639
Thanks: 340
Thanked 423 Times in 294 Posts
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#16 | |
Posted a thing or two
mgzt 160 1.8 lpg Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: newcastle upon tyne
Posts: 1,973
Thanks: 5
Thanked 72 Times in 64 Posts
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http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/...0/Photo389.jpg |
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#17 |
Newbie
Rover 75 Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Leamington Spa
Posts: 13
Thanks: 0
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![]() As a DIY option, it's not impossible but certainly not easy. There's a lot or struggling to reach all the bolts, as the suspension and subframe are pre-assembled, then lifted into the car from underneath during build, leaving the whole damn car right in the way when you want to unfasten the brackets.
That was not the worst part, however... I have replaced both arms, rear bushes and drop-links but persuading the actual centre ball-joint to separate from the subframe - 'tap free with a soft mallet,' according to the Haynes manual - was a total b*stard. LOTS of proper penetrating oil/fluid (WD40 won't be your friend here - use Plusgas or Penetrating Oil - or BOTH) re-applied and left overnight was the only option, followed by MAJOR abuse with a small club-hammer, pounding upwards on the nut on the end of the thread, until we finally got it shifted. That is the only really frustrating part, however. I would definitely suggest that you plan to do both sides at the same time. If one is knackered, the other won't be far away and if you're going to spend a weekend on the driveway, on your back, sweating and cursing, just do it once! Having changed both arms and drop-links, plus my top mounts, I STILL have a clonking, so I have just ordered front anti-roll bar bushes (under £20 the pair, OEM Rover/MG, delivered from Rimmer Brothers). I'd do those as well - in for a penny, in for a pound. Your car should then handle better and have the sweet, compliant ride that you expect from a Rover. Good luck. Oh and get a friend to help - for morale at the very least, when trying to get the ball-joint out... Last edited by martinhaven; 19th June 2012 at 09:51.. |
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#18 | |
This is my second home
75 Contemporary SE Mk II 2004 Man. Sal. CDTi 135ps, FBH on red diesel, WinCE6 DD Join Date: May 2010
Location: Leeds
Posts: 17,273
Thanks: 2,160
Thanked 2,061 Times in 1,586 Posts
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Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money. |
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