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Old 4th June 2012, 16:48   #11
suffolk boy
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Originally Posted by Unclefista View Post
Either use the club code "ztclub25" to get 25% off, or order through their discount site http://www.carparts4less.co.uk/ same company, same parts, just coincidentally 25% cheaper on average..

Edit: Having seen Suffolk-boy's post above, that seems like outstanding value for OEM parts, I'd find the little bit extra and go with that deal
i thought so got my new oem i,t,p of them as well.fast delivery also start fitting them wednesday.allready been round with the plus gas to give the bolts a good soak.
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Old 4th June 2012, 19:31   #12
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Thanks all for the help. Found the discount carparts4 less site; thanks for that. Also found some "genuine" rover ones on ebay for £78 from College Motors.

Is this supplier okay? ie are these really "genuine" rover parts?
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Old 4th June 2012, 19:47   #13
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Thanks all for the help. Found the discount carparts4 less site; thanks for that. Also found some "genuine" rover ones on ebay for £78 from College Motors.

Is this supplier okay? ie are these really "genuine" rover parts?
i as said i got genuine ones from a caompany called ecp at sandy beds for £69 there are defo oem
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Old 4th June 2012, 19:57   #14
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i as said i got genuine ones from a caompany called ecp at sandy beds for £69 there are defo oem
Thanks for that Suffolk Boy. Found your people on ebay. will give them a call.
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Old 19th June 2012, 01:27   #15
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Just found this on ebay...

cheaper ones you think?
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Old 19th June 2012, 01:41   #16
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Just found this on ebay...

cheaper ones you think?
They look like the cheap copies the bit on the back where the bush goes should be an equal hex shape some of the cheap ones are not making the bush hard to fit so they don't last long if you buy cheap you'll probably end up buying twice
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Old 19th June 2012, 09:48   #17
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As a DIY option, it's not impossible but certainly not easy. There's a lot or struggling to reach all the bolts, as the suspension and subframe are pre-assembled, then lifted into the car from underneath during build, leaving the whole damn car right in the way when you want to unfasten the brackets.

That was not the worst part, however... I have replaced both arms, rear bushes and drop-links but persuading the actual centre ball-joint to separate from the subframe - 'tap free with a soft mallet,' according to the Haynes manual - was a total b*stard.

LOTS of proper penetrating oil/fluid (WD40 won't be your friend here - use Plusgas or Penetrating Oil - or BOTH) re-applied and left overnight was the only option, followed by MAJOR abuse with a small club-hammer, pounding upwards on the nut on the end of the thread, until we finally got it shifted.

That is the only really frustrating part, however.

I would definitely suggest that you plan to do both sides at the same time. If one is knackered, the other won't be far away and if you're going to spend a weekend on the driveway, on your back, sweating and cursing, just do it once!

Having changed both arms and drop-links, plus my top mounts, I STILL have a clonking, so I have just ordered front anti-roll bar bushes (under £20 the pair, OEM Rover/MG, delivered from Rimmer Brothers). I'd do those as well - in for a penny, in for a pound.

Your car should then handle better and have the sweet, compliant ride that you expect from a Rover.

Good luck. Oh and get a friend to help - for morale at the very least, when trying to get the ball-joint out...

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Old 19th June 2012, 10:14   #18
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Originally Posted by jonathan63 View Post
And can I just get the ball joint at the end pressed out and a new pressed in?
That ought to be a viable and much cheaper option, but unfortunatately no on has managed it yet. For now, your only option is to replace the entire wishbone
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