70000 mile service
 

Hi all, I am having a 70000 mile service done tomorrow (wed) on my 2.5 club auto. Just a couple of things I need to ask.
On previous cars I have run some engine cleaner before the oil change, is this ok with the KV6?
Is the auto 'box fluid lifetime or does it require changing?
Is 10/40w fully sythetic oil ok to use?

I'm having the service done by a mobile mechanic who I've used for years and can highley recommend!

There's some votes for and some votes against engine flushes. My personal opinion is they are a waste of money with today's oils. My view is they are more about marketing than mechanics. There is always a residue of old oil left in the engine, no matter how well it is drained. Consider those fitted with an oil cooler and there's more reason not to use a flush. Flushes aren't designed to run engines for very long, so why dilute your new oil with something inferior.

The oil specified for the engine is basically semi-synthetic. Opinions also vary about the use of fully synthetic oils in older engines. They have a more powerful cleaning action and are said to remove important sealing residues/films in the cylinders and other critical areas. If fully synthetic has been used historically, the continued use will be beneficial.

Please await other comments on this before deciding what you'd prefer. I'm not a lube oil expert, but I read a lot. There's no doubt lots of reasons why synthetic is believed better and you should consider them equally. Unfortunately, you may end up more confused than before.

TC

10w40 fully synthetic can cause some issues if the car is a high miler but I'd just stick with a good brand semi-synthetic. (I use Mobil S)

Auto box fluid is not a lifetime oil and should be replaced every 4 years or 60k whatever is soonest.

As for engine flushes. If it's the type you add to the oil I see no hard but when I bought my car I used and engine flush, changed the oil and 500 miles later changed the oil again so I really flushed mine out.
If you mean the type you add to the fuel then go ahead. some of it's quite good. In fact cataclean has just been given the thumbs up by VOSA as actually working.

The Rover 75/ZT Maintenance Check Sheet shows that the automatic gearbox oil should be changed at 60,000 miles or 4 years whichever is the sooner.

Ok... thanks for the useful and helpful replies again!

thats what I said... :D

Make sure you use the correct autobox fluid and follow the instructions pretty carefully on how to do the fluid change.

It isn't as straight forward as some mechanics presume it should be and can cause premature failure if overfilled or under filled. There is a document in the data section of the site detailing the process.

I have been let down by my mate so I am going to to the job myself. I have done servicing on cars before. I have printed off the how to regarding removing the rear spark plugs. I will leave the atf to a professional. I am ok going underneath a car using axle stands and a trolley jack. I always have trouble removing the sump plug for reason. Does anyone know the correct size spanner to use and do remove loosen it woth the engine cold or warm? Also I cant seam to be able to remove the ecu to change the pollen filter! I have followed the instruction re plenum drain hole cleaning.

The oil level in the autobox is extremely critical, and the margin for error is very very small. My usual garage wont touch them! So I advise you to go to a qualified Autobox Co to get the oil change done. :)

Jules took my ECU out and i didn't see how he did it, :o dohh.. But hopefully someone will tell you shortly..
.

Sump plug spanner is 15mm. It will be quite tight: 25 Nm. If the engine is warm the thinner oil will drain more easily, but be careful that you don't scald yourself.
It just lifts out of the bracket. Release the wiring loom clip from the threaded stud as you do so. Don't remove the multi-connector though!
A few extra pounds will buy you the pollen and odour filter (grey in colour). I've found it works well.

Simon.