Cruise+ Loom Retrofit For CDT
 

I have just completed a retrofit of Cruise Control to my 2003 Club SE CDT Tourer. Here is a blow by blow account for anybody who would like Cruise but has no loom.

You need to obtain a RAVE CD (From £2.99 on Ebay) and be able to print the circuit diagrams for Cruise Control pages 54 and 55 and connector details for C2030, C0331, C0603, C0082 and C0895.

Use the search facility on the forum for Rob Bells "Cruise Control Fitting" and make a copy. This is an excellent article with good pictures.

Visit your local scrap yard and get these 4 connectors with about 3" of wire attached. C0895 (cruise interface), C0331 (ECU in plenum), C0082 (on steering column) and C0749 (cruise master switch).
These cost me £7.00

Next you need the cruise control interface and mounting bracket SCB100211
Cruise master switch YUH100250PUY
Steering wheel switches YUH100241PDJ
These cost me £49.95 delivered (Ebay)

If you do not know how things come apart, use the forum search facility and you will find somebody somewhere has done it and posted pictures.

REMOVE BATTERY CONNECTIONS AND LEAVE FOR 30 MINUTES.

Remove the steering wheel, cut out the back of the wheel to accept the extra cruise switches and mount the switches.
Mount the Interface bracket behind the glove box in the passenger footwell and clip the Interface in.
Fit the master switch into the centre console. If you do not have the required hole in the facia for this switch, you can buy a new part with the hole in, or do as I did and cut the hole yourself. Take your time to make a neat job, there is a guide marker on the rear of the plastic but note this is much larger than is required for the switch button.

Now comes the wiring:-

The clutch and brake switches were already in place along with the required wiring "E" "F" &"G" to C0331-23, C0331-28, and C0331-24 of the ECU. Reading on the forum it is normal for this to be present as these connections are already used for other features.
Connection "A" to the ECU, C0603-9 was also present, I think this is also used for for the Air Conditioning circuit.

So looking at the circuit diagram page 55 all the wiring "A" to "H" was in place except for "B" C0331-27, and "C" & "D" to C0082-4 & 5

To extend the wires left on the plugs, obtained from the scrapyard, I used stripped out mains flex I already had, and soldered new lengths on using heat shrink sleeving to insulate.

C0895-1
I used an earthing tag under one of the interface bracket bolts for the earth of this pin.

C0895-2
Looking closely at the scrapyard C0331 plug you will see that it splits apart and a grey and a black plug will slide out. Take a small pointed tool (big needle, or small meat skewer) and carefully press in the the locating barb on one of the pins and withdraw the pin with it's vestige of wire, solder about 2 metres of wire to this vestige and insulate with heat shrink sleeving.
Remove C0331 from the ECU (inside the plenum), carefully open the plug in the same way as above and insert the extra pin into pin 27 position. Route the wire down the side of the ECU along with the other wires which go in this direction and leave it there for the moment as we have to get this into the passenger footwell. This is best done together with the supply from Fuse 4 in the engine bay.

C0895-3 & C0895-4
Remove the lower part of the steering wheel escutcheon and pull plug C0082. You will see that the wires are missing from pin 4 & 5 ("C" & "D")
I used twin mains flex for this with the outer sheath still on. Look closely at the scrapyard C0082 and you will see that raising the plastic latch and hinging back the top of the plug you will be able to withdraw 2 of the pins. Fit these into the original plug C0082 pin 4 & 5 and extend these with the flex so that it will reach into the passenger footwell.

C0895-9
We will do this next as the cable path is close to that of C0082 pins 4 & 5.
Remove the Instrument Pack and locate plug C2030. THIS IS NOT THE ONE SHOWN ON RAVE. It is the white plug with 18 pins. As before, remove a pin from the scrap C0331 plug and insert into position pin 5 of C2030 and extend the wire to reach the passenger footwell.
Route the twin flex (C0082) and the single wire (C2030) together to the Cruise Interface module, taking great care where the cables run and use frequent cable ties to keep them away from any hazards. Connect the single wire to C0895-9 and twin flex to C0895-3 & C0895-4 making sure that "C" & "D" go to their respective pins.

C0895-5 & C0895-6
Looking at the circuit diagram page 54 these 2 cables go to header C0294 pin 2 & 5. I could not find C0294 on my version of RAVE, and also when I located C0286 it was orange not grey and the wire colours did not match either. So I decided to use other methods.
The yellow/brown and yellow/black wires (C0895-5 and C0895-6) are twisted together, looking under the passenger dash above and to the left of the fuse box is a thick bunch of wires from the plenum, among these I found the twisted pair yellow/brown and yellow/black and piggy backed into these. (strip a small amount if insulation off the original wire, wrap a bared end of new wire around this and apply solder)
This new joint was sealed with self amalgam tape which sticks to itself and forms a water tight rubber boot.

C0895-7
RAVE says the feed for the Cruise Master Switch is from fuse F28 (or could it be F26) IT IS NOT.
Fuse 28 is live all the time and F26 is only 5amp.
Tracing the circuit in the fuse box inside the car, it was found that Fuse 41 is switched by the ignition switch, and I piggy backed onto the White/yellow wire from the pink plug (on the rear of the fuse box) which is fed by Fuse 41. Run this wire to the centre console and connect to the White/ Blue wire of the Master Switch connector C0749-1. Connect C0749-5 Blue/orange to pin C0895-7 of the Cruise Interface. Connect C0749-3 to earth, I used the same earthing tag as before. Connect the Red/white wire to any other Red/white which is for the dash lights. That completes the master switch socket.

C0895-8
Remove the 3 mounting bolts/screws from the fuse box in the engine bay and take off the thick black lead which goes to the battery. Lift up the box and locate the blue plug with 12 pins. Piggy back onto the Yellow/blue lead which is fed from Fuse 4.
Carefully tie-wrap this new wire onto the the wires from the fuse box and head in the direction of the metal bulkhead just to the rear of the front suspension turret. You should find a small grommet, pierce this and get the wire into the plenum, along with the one left there from C0331-27. The thick loom in the right of the plenum goes through a large rubber grommet into the wheel arch above the arch liner. Poke both wires through this.
Jack up and remove the front wheel. Remove the 3 self tapers and the 2 plastic rivets and pull down the rear part of the wheel arch liner. Pull the 2 wires through, and poke them along with the rest of this thick loom into the passenger footwell, this comes out above and to the left of the internal fuse box.
In the place above the wheel arch liner make a drip loop in the 2 wires so that any water does not run down the wires into the passenger compartment.
Connect the 2 new wires the one from C0331-27 to C0895-2, and the one from Fuse4 to C0895-8.

Now put everthing back together and enjoy your new Cruise Control.

Full functionality will only work after a T4 session. In the mean time this is what happens:-
Master switch on---press resume, cruise display lit---press set, car speeds up to required speed---Press resume, brake or press clutch Cruise drops out--- press resume twice cruise disengages.

The usual disclaimer applies, do not attempt this if you are not sure you can do the job, if you damage your car or yourself this is your problem and your problem alone.

Good luck, Pete.

Disclaimer:
You are responsible for any work or modifications carried out on your car and you undertake any such work at your own risk.
The 75 and ZT Owners Club nor the original author of this How-To can be held liable for anything that may happen as a result
of you following this How-To.

Excellent How to. Its a job I would still love to do on mine but I have no loom and this should help me out. Would love some pics, as I am a bit of a numpty :D

Yesssssssssssssss! Exactly what I was looking for! Will have a good read through this in the evening :D any pictures for me too> ;)

Pictures
 

Hi, I have not yet discovered how to load pictures, but if you search for Rob Bells "Cruise control fitting" as suggested in my text, he has some excellent pictures.

Hope this helps, Pete.

Does anyone have pictures of these connectors? Would love to get them from a scrapyard and start making the loom until the cruise control kit itself fits into my budget.

Pictures
 

Hi andre372,

if you get hold of a copy of the "Rave" CD, all the pictures of the plugs and sockets are on it.

U.K. Ebay have these for as little as £2.99

Good luck in making the loom.

Pete.

I already have 2 of the connectors (rotary coupler & master switch), will have the other 2 tomorrow if I get to the scrapyard before closing time :D
I'm lucky that they let me strip the wires and plugs on my own. The cruise interface plug is hard to get to. I couldn't for the life of me unplug it via the footwell panel (I was kneeling on the passenger seat and upside down). Will remove the glovebox tomorrow.
Unfortunately the car I'm stripping has an auto box so there won't be a clutch pedal sensor. In another thread I'm trying to find out if I actually have the sensor fitted or is it just an empty plug.
Quite expensive sorting these cars but addictive :drool4:

I've got all the connectors now :cheering:
What an excellent how-to :bowdown: Will read it through a few times and go shop for some wire and accessories.

http://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/at...=1&d=922990684
C0749; C0082; C0895; C0331

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...9&d=1399573084

Hi andre372 , looks like you have the required plugs.

All you need now is some wire, sleeving, solder, tape, cable ties and a lot of patience!

Good luck, Pete

Thanks Pete. I wouldn't have started the journey without this thread. And I'll finish what I started :D
Can I ask you, how do I make sure I have the correct pedal switches?
http://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/sh...d.php?t=182884

I haven't had the chance to feel the plugs by hand but I took some close pictures. The clutch pedal switch is approached by a plug with correct wires (light green/purple; black; -; green/red) but I don't know if it's a real switch or just an innard. I don't know anything about my brake pedal switch yet.

http://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/at...1&d=1399578909http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...0&d=1399578904

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...1&d=1399578908

http://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/at...1&d=1399578909

Clutch switch
 

Hi andre,

I too was in this position with regard to the switches when I did my retrofit.

When I examined plug C0331 on the ECU I noted that pin 23 "E" green/red, pin 28 "F" purple/green and pin 24 "G" green/purple were all present, I therefore concluded that the switches were in place.

The reasoning being that pin 27 wire was missing and so was the cruise control interface.
The steering wheel switches were missing and so were the 2 wires in C20082 pins 4 & 5
So if the wires were there so were the switches

Your picture of the clutch switch shows wires light green/purple, green/red and black which is another clue to the switch being present

In the end I connected everything up and tried it, and it worked.

Pete.

Hi Pete, thanks for the reply. I guess I'll find out about the ECU wiring when I get to adding the missing pin. I'm pretty sure they're there.
Looking at Rimmers' diagrams there shouldn't be any doubt about the clutch switch. But there it is shown as black, mine is white. .
Final conclusions can be made after I've bought and fitted a kit. But that might be in half a year or so.

Today I went and bought everything I need for doing the wiring. Plenty of black cable (PVC, 0,75 sq mm, I'm not really happy with it but couldn't find any better), some 3M branded bits for doing the "piggyback" thingy, self-vulcanizing isolation tape for packing in the 3M bits, some textile isolation tape for making a neat loom, and some 3/1 mm heat shrinking sleeve with glue for the to be soldered connections. I hope it shrinks enough to hold onto the original 0,5 sq mm wires.

By the way, the cruise interface plug in my picture is from a petrol car. I now have one from diesel also, so I'd have the correct colours and wouldn't need to move the connectors in the plug.

Almost there :drool4:

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k2...psagm6ctpq.jpg

All wiring done, only need the steering wheel buttons now and everything should work :}
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...3&d=1400274705

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...4&d=1400274714

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...5&d=1400274719

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...6&d=1400274725

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...7&d=1400274730
http://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/at...1&d=1400274729

I've put the dash together again with all the wiring in place and a hole for the steering wheel buttons made.
The only thing I'm concerned about, both the cruise control master switch and the heated seat switch have slightly more dimmed backlighting than the ATC and stereo panel. I've yet to check the voltage but perhaps this is normal?

When I finally get it to work, I will amend Pete's excellent how-to with some pictures and explanations for future enthusiasts.

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...6&d=1400362299

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...7&d=1400362304

http://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/at...1&d=1400362302

http://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/at...1&d=1400362302

Whoohoo! A working cruise control! :D
Thanks to Andy (trikey) and Stu (Stubie) I now have the cruise switches fitted :bowdown:
And the first test drive done.

http://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/at...1&d=1401306652http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...7&d=1401306651

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...8&d=1401306655

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...9&d=1401306660

http://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/at...1&d=1401306652

http://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/at...1&d=1401306652

Second test drive done today (in town).

I didn't expect it to work that way without a T4 session.
I found a thread by bigruss42 on mg-rover.org where he describes his retrofitted cruise control funcionality prior to having the car T4'd:

My cruise control works in a different way:

Cruise can be enabled at ~38 km/h (my speedometer over reads by ca 12% so it's actually ~34 km/h or ~21 mph).
Press master switch - no warning light on dash.
Press Set - warning light comes on, cruise set at current speed.
Repeatedly press Set - incrementally increases cruise speed.
Press and hold Set - increases cruise speed until released.
Use accelerator for less than 30 secs - cruise resumes at previous speed. (haven't tried actually)
Brake and clutch switches work as they should - suspends cruise.
Press Res. - warning light goes off, suspends cruise.
Press Res. again - warning light comes on, resumes cruise at previous speed.
etc

Can't say I'm not happy :D
Only one thing missing from perfect, there should be a "-" button for decreasing speed. Why did they even put the dummy middle button in there? Just so it would be symmetrical with the ICE buttons?

You don't need a minus button - just tap the RESUME button, then tap the SET when you get to the lower speed. :D

Correct ;) But that's 2 clicks instead of 1 and no "fine tuning". Plus there is a dummy button with no use.

Fantastic work sirs! I've parked this idea for years with an idea to make my own loom, but never actually doing it!!! It is SO reassuring that it is possible!

Has anyone got a copy of those two pages of the wiring diagram (I'm not sure I have it) - and I'll try and put together a pictorial how-to to complement this thread (or has it been done already?)

Thanks again!!! :bowdown:

I've sent you a PM.
I've also been meaning to complement this thread with a step-by-step guide with pictures, but have since been too busy with other things. School and water leaking into the car being the main "obstacles".
We'll see who gets to do it first then :D
But until then, just get to it and I hope your years of waiting will come to a positive end :}

Thanks Andre! There's an incentive to get this done - and thanks for the PM :D

Your Pictures
 

Hi Rob,
hope you are successful with the Cruise Retrofit.

Hope you didn't mind me including a reference to your original thread with the pictures, as they were very clear and concise and helped me complete my own cruise fitting.

Cheers, Pete.

Not working!!
 

:mad:
Hoped this would solve the no loom problem (been wanting to add cruise to my 2.0 diesel Connie). Followed the instructions (excellent work guys) and two days of work :eek: later......nothing!! Cc switch illuminated so looks good, press it and green tell tale comes on, but that's it. Tried pressing Res and Set. Nada no little orange light on IPK. Any ideas? t4. Interestingly when I put the IPK back in the brake pad low warning has come on! Checked pads/disks and sensor, all ok:shrug:. Oh dear says my wife!!! Help!

Sorry to hear it doesn't work.
Did you take extra caution with the connections/soldering and made sure that every pin went where it had to go so you can rule these out?
Silly to even ask (I assume you followed the wire colours and pin numbers), but did you use the correct plug for the cruise interface plug? I added a picture of the plug from a petrol variant which is a little different.
Where did you splice the can-bus wires (yellows) to?

Hi Schotten,
you say to cruise dash light does not come on, but have you tried it on the road to see if cruise works?

Also you say that the brake pad warning light is on, could this be because you have connected into the wrong plug on the IPK, because the Rave Disk identifies the wrong plug on the rear of the IPK?

Pete.

A long task to check the wiring...agh! Not the greatest of solderers but the joints did look pretty secure before putting heat shrinking insulation over them. Will take the IPK out first to check the plug and cavity used. One thing I did notice when starting up the cruise light on the IPK flickered briefly before going out. The cruise interface was bought second hand and came with connector and part of the loom, I can only assume it works!!! I used the yellow/black & yellow/brown wires coiled together above and to the left of the fuse box just before they go through the bulkhead. I used fuse piggy back (?), instead of scotch locks for the connections to fuse 41 & 4, they plug in where the fuse goes, takes the original fuse and provides a 2nd fused circuit. Other than that more or less followed the instructions. I've read elsewhere the car might not recognise the cc interface straight away? Thoughts on that one or clutching at straws!!!:}

No worries at all Pete - thanks for the mention and the kind words! They were posted on line to help others, and now they'll help me too! :D

Ugh - I feel your pain. :( Not sure I can add much at this stage other than going back and checking everything, no matter how trivial. When this happens to me, the usual explanation is that I've done something so monumentally daft, I don't see the problem for ages! Hopefully this will be a simple fix.

If the cruise is going to work, it seems to do so right from the outset (even if not necessarily with full functionality)

Good luck!

The brake pad warning lamp part seems weird. But it doesn't necessarily mean an electrical fault (regarding adding the cc). I had this light come on last year and the sensor looked okay. I just removed the sensor and shorted the pins which turned off the light (don't worry, I still keep an eye on things and changed the discs this year). So this might or might not be a coincidence.
Regarding the piggy back fuses, I've never used one but the ones I've seen on pictures take a second fuse in them to provide the second circuit, rather than creating 2 circuits with the single original fuse.

Since your cc master switch lights up, the F41 in passenger compartment fusebox is okay. But did you check that F4 in engine compartment fusebox which feeds the cc interface isn't blown? Seemingly, this fuse also feeds automatic transmission, air conditioning and cooling fan.

I always disconnect the battery when dealing with these things just to be on the safe side (and I have no radio code or sat nav to worry about). Did you have the battery disconnected? If not, maybe doing so now would reset things.

The master switch lights up even at a standstill but did you try the set/res buttons at highway speed?
When did the cc light on IPK flicker? Right after starting the engine with master switch off? When turning master switch on? When at a certaing speed pressing set/res buttons? Did it happen only once or every time you start the car?

Then there's always the possibility of the interface being faulty, after all it does say "handle with care" on the casing...

Oh and which scotchloks did you use on the yellow/(black/brown) wires. Some are for larger diameter wires and may not give good connection.

I've not seen anyone say that their cc didn't work straight away so I'm sure you'll get it to work eventually.

Ok, off tomorrow so will have a look at my wiring and check all plugs and cavities are correct. Strange electrics on my Connie, the sunroof is acting up now.!!!!:eek: Need to look at that one too. Where do I find the anti trap sensor(s)?

sounds like to me you have tapped into the kbus.

Ah! got me worried! I'm off to have a look!!!:eek:

Harmed a Kbus wire (red-white-yellow) you mean?

Success!!
 

Checked all the wiring and found I'd mixed up the yellow/black & yellow/brown wires on the cruise cc!!:duh: Spotted it straight away but thought best to have a thorough check as I'm at it. Now got a bit of cruise to play with! Excellent how to guys, been looking to do this for years now but didn't think it was so simple (if you know how!!). Next to get it all T4'd and get it to OE standard. Oh and the low brake pads warning has gone away (took the IPK out), and re set the sunroof so only bounces back once when closing from fully open (has been for a long time!). So trebles all round!!! Thanks guys:}

Cruise Retrofit
 

Hi Schotten, and well done.

That makes 2 successful Retrofits, 3 If you include mine.

Cheers, Pete.

Congratulations Scott :D
Did you use coloured wires that it was so easy to find the mix-up?

I've never had cruise control before and now that I have, I'm using it quite often. Thanks to Pete :bowdown:

Sure did! Went to the bother of buying cable that matched the wiring diagram colours and wires that came with the switch and interface plugs. Made spotting my mistake easier;)Really looking forward to getting the time to take it on nice long run without having a sore right knee!! Thanks again to Pete. Now what's next!!!!!

Nice! ;)
I couldn't source even the right diameter wire, let alone the two-coloured ones. Does your supplier have a web page?

Seeing you have a Connoisseur, I suppose you don't have too much to add :D
I'd go for heated seats, auto-dimming rear view mirror, ultrasonic alarm, parking distance control, high-line IPK, traction control etc :drool4:

Best of luck
Andre

Andre go to www.autoelectricsuplies.co.uk, that's where I got cable and other bits and pieces from. Don't really know if cheap or dear, they supplied what I needed without any fuss and quick delivery, so I think ok:}. Yip got a Connie, I've installed hi line sat nav (mk3) with HK amp would like to upgrade but mk4 and a bm54 are sooooo...expensive! Got bm24 at moment and is worth the change from the Rover standard tuner. Replaced the rear view mirror with auto dipping a while back (£10 inc loom from scrapyard!). Rear blind done, centre power socket and torch, both genuine Rover, done. Heated washer jets, headlamp power wash (waiting for T4 magic) Xenon headlamps, rear parking and a lovely set of Serpents! Not too bad a list?!:D Would like to know how to upgrade standard electric seats to memory. Must have a search about the forum. Good luck with any mods and enjoy your cruise!!!:} Scott

Duh! Wrong spelling:duh: www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk

Might seem like a silly question but... what would be the correct wire spec to use for this job?

On the website link provided, there seems to be quite a variety of different cables to use.


Cable

• Standard PVC Cable
• Thin Wall Cable
• Battery Cable
• Braided Cable
• Cable Bundles
• HT Cable
• Speaker Cable
• Tinned Copper Cable
• Trailer Cable
• Multicore Cable
• Multicore Thinwall
• Cable Reels

I was looking at this cable from their site... would this be up to the job?
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.u...2/category/176

Cheers,
Rick

Ordered a kit which has at least 3 of the connectors, hopefully has the fourth too, probably the ecu one that would be missing which I could request. Anyway, can you make the entire loom outside of the car and feed it through to make it easier?
Also no pictures on any cruise threads by Rob Bell apart from the link to mgfultimate which is no use really...

Hi Jordan Apex,
for Rob Bells photos, search "Diesel Cruise Control - wiring revisited" and click the link it was posted on 10/2/10

Pete.

Thank you :)

The thread was started on the 18th, and the link just shows removing glove box and other trims :shrug:

Andre I have just seen you made some looms before installing, that is exactly what I want to do! Can you remember the details of those looms, i.e. length of wires how many wires per loom and which loom connects what to what? :D

Found the length of wire needed in another post by andre, so now just to make the loom for the most part out of the car using tags like andre did (great idea) where ln the steering column is this plug located as I am messaging someone who has it just needs to know where to get it grom and also the ecu one, is it evident which the righy one is? I sent him a picture of the connectors

Rob Bells pictures
 

Hi Jordan Apex,
seems you had already found Rob Bells pictures, I found them very useful and the text which goes with them very informative. It shows the relationship between the various pieces of kit and where to mount and find them.

Just to make it clear I did not make looms outside the car, just ran the wires and connected as required.

All the information regarding the plugs, sockets and connectors are on the "rave manual" disk.

Pete.

Ahh I see, I was thinking they were of installing the wiring not the components :duh: they're helpful just in a different way to what I was thinking, yeah I saw that, I am going to do what Andre did and make the wires on the connectors long enough and tag them so I can spend as little time as possible cramped in the car :)

Have to see if I still have my copy of that, great informatiob by the way! Never done any wiring before, good thing my friend is comfortable with it :D

Gentlemen, one more question, do the steering wheel controls come tied together in the same connector, for both radio and cruise, under the airbag? what I saw in pictures, it seems so, I already have the radio controls installed, so should I expect to find a different connector only for the cruise control loom or I need both controls wired in one connector? I also suspect the loom is installed since I found the connector for interface and mounting bracket SCB100211 (in the fuse box). Will look for the connector near ash tray, but still need to find out how to further dismantle below the radio area (so more questions, actually). Thanks for input, is valuable, for sure.

When you add the audio / cruise switches, they are as one and replace the existing audio controls.

Perfect, thanks for clearing up!

Sirs

did you ever get round to doing a wiring diagram for this conversion, I have all of the parts ready to do the job but do not know where to connect what to where as it where.

Mick

Hi Mick,
In the first post of this thread I say get yourself a copy of "Rave". This has all the circuit diagrams - plugs and sockets - wire colours - locations of all electrical components and photos of the same.

This was the first thing I did before tackling the project and it proved to be everything I needed to complete the job.

Hope this helps, Pete.

I made a wiring diagram here when fitting my cruise control if that helps.
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=231785