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Old 10th March 2014, 18:17   #1
Union Wheels
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Default Cruise+ Loom Retrofit For CDT

I have just completed a retrofit of Cruise Control to my 2003 Club SE CDT Tourer. Here is a blow by blow account for anybody who would like Cruise but has no loom.

You need to obtain a RAVE CD (From £2.99 on Ebay) and be able to print the circuit diagrams for Cruise Control pages 54 and 55 and connector details for C2030, C0331, C0603, C0082 and C0895.

Use the search facility on the forum for Rob Bells "Cruise Control Fitting" and make a copy. This is an excellent article with good pictures.

Visit your local scrap yard and get these 4 connectors with about 3" of wire attached. C0895 (cruise interface), C0331 (ECU in plenum), C0082 (on steering column) and C0749 (cruise master switch).
These cost me £7.00

Next you need the cruise control interface and mounting bracket SCB100211
Cruise master switch YUH100250PUY
Steering wheel switches YUH100241PDJ
These cost me £49.95 delivered (Ebay)

If you do not know how things come apart, use the forum search facility and you will find somebody somewhere has done it and posted pictures.

REMOVE BATTERY CONNECTIONS AND LEAVE FOR 30 MINUTES.

Remove the steering wheel, cut out the back of the wheel to accept the extra cruise switches and mount the switches.
Mount the Interface bracket behind the glove box in the passenger footwell and clip the Interface in.
Fit the master switch into the centre console. If you do not have the required hole in the facia for this switch, you can buy a new part with the hole in, or do as I did and cut the hole yourself. Take your time to make a neat job, there is a guide marker on the rear of the plastic but note this is much larger than is required for the switch button.

Now comes the wiring:-

The clutch and brake switches were already in place along with the required wiring "E" "F" &"G" to C0331-23, C0331-28, and C0331-24 of the ECU. Reading on the forum it is normal for this to be present as these connections are already used for other features.
Connection "A" to the ECU, C0603-9 was also present, I think this is also used for for the Air Conditioning circuit.

So looking at the circuit diagram page 55 all the wiring "A" to "H" was in place except for "B" C0331-27, and "C" & "D" to C0082-4 & 5

To extend the wires left on the plugs, obtained from the scrapyard, I used stripped out mains flex I already had, and soldered new lengths on using heat shrink sleeving to insulate.

C0895-1
I used an earthing tag under one of the interface bracket bolts for the earth of this pin.

C0895-2
Looking closely at the scrapyard C0331 plug you will see that it splits apart and a grey and a black plug will slide out. Take a small pointed tool (big needle, or small meat skewer) and carefully press in the the locating barb on one of the pins and withdraw the pin with it's vestige of wire, solder about 2 metres of wire to this vestige and insulate with heat shrink sleeving.
Remove C0331 from the ECU (inside the plenum), carefully open the plug in the same way as above and insert the extra pin into pin 27 position. Route the wire down the side of the ECU along with the other wires which go in this direction and leave it there for the moment as we have to get this into the passenger footwell. This is best done together with the supply from Fuse 4 in the engine bay.

C0895-3 & C0895-4
Remove the lower part of the steering wheel escutcheon and pull plug C0082. You will see that the wires are missing from pin 4 & 5 ("C" & "D")
I used twin mains flex for this with the outer sheath still on. Look closely at the scrapyard C0082 and you will see that raising the plastic latch and hinging back the top of the plug you will be able to withdraw 2 of the pins. Fit these into the original plug C0082 pin 4 & 5 and extend these with the flex so that it will reach into the passenger footwell.

C0895-9
We will do this next as the cable path is close to that of C0082 pins 4 & 5.
Remove the Instrument Pack and locate plug C2030. THIS IS NOT THE ONE SHOWN ON RAVE. It is the white plug with 18 pins. As before, remove a pin from the scrap C0331 plug and insert into position pin 5 of C2030 and extend the wire to reach the passenger footwell.
Route the twin flex (C0082) and the single wire (C2030) together to the Cruise Interface module, taking great care where the cables run and use frequent cable ties to keep them away from any hazards. Connect the single wire to C0895-9 and twin flex to C0895-3 & C0895-4 making sure that "C" & "D" go to their respective pins.

C0895-5 & C0895-6
Looking at the circuit diagram page 54 these 2 cables go to header C0294 pin 2 & 5. I could not find C0294 on my version of RAVE, and also when I located C0286 it was orange not grey and the wire colours did not match either. So I decided to use other methods.
The yellow/brown and yellow/black wires (C0895-5 and C0895-6) are twisted together, looking under the passenger dash above and to the left of the fuse box is a thick bunch of wires from the plenum, among these I found the twisted pair yellow/brown and yellow/black and piggy backed into these. (strip a small amount if insulation off the original wire, wrap a bared end of new wire around this and apply solder)
This new joint was sealed with self amalgam tape which sticks to itself and forms a water tight rubber boot.

C0895-7
RAVE says the feed for the Cruise Master Switch is from fuse F28 (or could it be F26) IT IS NOT.
Fuse 28 is live all the time and F26 is only 5amp.
Tracing the circuit in the fuse box inside the car, it was found that Fuse 41 is switched by the ignition switch, and I piggy backed onto the White/yellow wire from the pink plug (on the rear of the fuse box) which is fed by Fuse 41. Run this wire to the centre console and connect to the White/ Blue wire of the Master Switch connector C0749-1. Connect C0749-5 Blue/orange to pin C0895-7 of the Cruise Interface. Connect C0749-3 to earth, I used the same earthing tag as before. Connect the Red/white wire to any other Red/white which is for the dash lights. That completes the master switch socket.

C0895-8
Remove the 3 mounting bolts/screws from the fuse box in the engine bay and take off the thick black lead which goes to the battery. Lift up the box and locate the blue plug with 12 pins. Piggy back onto the Yellow/blue lead which is fed from Fuse 4.
Carefully tie-wrap this new wire onto the the wires from the fuse box and head in the direction of the metal bulkhead just to the rear of the front suspension turret. You should find a small grommet, pierce this and get the wire into the plenum, along with the one left there from C0331-27. The thick loom in the right of the plenum goes through a large rubber grommet into the wheel arch above the arch liner. Poke both wires through this.
Jack up and remove the front wheel. Remove the 3 self tapers and the 2 plastic rivets and pull down the rear part of the wheel arch liner. Pull the 2 wires through, and poke them along with the rest of this thick loom into the passenger footwell, this comes out above and to the left of the internal fuse box.
In the place above the wheel arch liner make a drip loop in the 2 wires so that any water does not run down the wires into the passenger compartment.
Connect the 2 new wires the one from C0331-27 to C0895-2, and the one from Fuse4 to C0895-8.

Now put everthing back together and enjoy your new Cruise Control.

Full functionality will only work after a T4 session. In the mean time this is what happens:-
Master switch on---press resume, cruise display lit---press set, car speeds up to required speed---Press resume, brake or press clutch Cruise drops out--- press resume twice cruise disengages.

The usual disclaimer applies, do not attempt this if you are not sure you can do the job, if you damage your car or yourself this is your problem and your problem alone.

Good luck, Pete.

Disclaimer:
You are responsible for any work or modifications carried out on your car and you undertake any such work at your own risk.
The 75 and ZT Owners Club nor the original author of this How-To can be held liable for anything that may happen as a result
of you following this How-To.
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How to Retrofit Diesel Cruise Control + Loom
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...87&postcount=1

How to Modify a 3 Speed Fan for CDT & V6 into a 2 Speed with a Resistor.
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=209920

CDT now gone to new owner, but still on forum

Last edited by Union Wheels; 16th June 2014 at 12:16.. Reason: Official disclaimer added ;-)
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Old 11th March 2014, 07:01   #2
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Excellent How to. Its a job I would still love to do on mine but I have no loom and this should help me out. Would love some pics, as I am a bit of a numpty
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Old 11th March 2014, 09:18   #3
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Yesssssssssssssss! Exactly what I was looking for! Will have a good read through this in the evening any pictures for me too>
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Old 11th March 2014, 12:47   #4
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Hi, I have not yet discovered how to load pictures, but if you search for Rob Bells "Cruise control fitting" as suggested in my text, he has some excellent pictures.

Hope this helps, Pete.
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How to Retrofit Diesel Cruise Control + Loom
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...87&postcount=1

How to Modify a 3 Speed Fan for CDT & V6 into a 2 Speed with a Resistor.
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=209920

CDT now gone to new owner, but still on forum
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Old 6th May 2014, 22:10   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Union Wheels View Post
Visit your local scrap yard and get these 4 connectors with about 3" of wire attached. C0895 (cruise interface), C0331 (ECU in plenum), C0082 (on steering column) and C0749 (cruise master switch).
Does anyone have pictures of these connectors? Would love to get them from a scrapyard and start making the loom until the cruise control kit itself fits into my budget.
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Old 7th May 2014, 20:02   #6
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Hi andre372,

if you get hold of a copy of the "Rave" CD, all the pictures of the plugs and sockets are on it.

U.K. Ebay have these for as little as £2.99

Good luck in making the loom.

Pete.
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How to Retrofit Diesel Cruise Control + Loom
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...87&postcount=1

How to Modify a 3 Speed Fan for CDT & V6 into a 2 Speed with a Resistor.
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=209920

CDT now gone to new owner, but still on forum
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Old 7th May 2014, 20:28   #7
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I already have 2 of the connectors (rotary coupler & master switch), will have the other 2 tomorrow if I get to the scrapyard before closing time
I'm lucky that they let me strip the wires and plugs on my own. The cruise interface plug is hard to get to. I couldn't for the life of me unplug it via the footwell panel (I was kneeling on the passenger seat and upside down). Will remove the glovebox tomorrow.
Unfortunately the car I'm stripping has an auto box so there won't be a clutch pedal sensor. In another thread I'm trying to find out if I actually have the sensor fitted or is it just an empty plug.
Quite expensive sorting these cars but addictive
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Old 8th May 2014, 19:20   #8
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I've got all the connectors now
What an excellent how-to Will read it through a few times and go shop for some wire and accessories.


C0749; C0082; C0895; C0331

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File Type: jpg 2014-05-08 17.48.52.jpg (90.4 KB, 3035 views)

Last edited by Dragrad; 16th May 2014 at 22:46.. Reason: Thumbnails enlarged
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Old 8th May 2014, 19:46   #9
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Hi andre372 , looks like you have the required plugs.

All you need now is some wire, sleeving, solder, tape, cable ties and a lot of patience!

Good luck, Pete
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How to Retrofit Diesel Cruise Control + Loom
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...87&postcount=1

How to Modify a 3 Speed Fan for CDT & V6 into a 2 Speed with a Resistor.
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=209920

CDT now gone to new owner, but still on forum
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Old 8th May 2014, 20:55   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Union Wheels View Post
Hi andre372 , looks like you have the required plugs.

All you need now is some wire, sleeving, solder, tape, cable ties and a lot of patience!

Good luck, Pete
Thanks Pete. I wouldn't have started the journey without this thread. And I'll finish what I started
Can I ask you, how do I make sure I have the correct pedal switches?
http://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/sh...d.php?t=182884

I haven't had the chance to feel the plugs by hand but I took some close pictures. The clutch pedal switch is approached by a plug with correct wires (light green/purple; black; -; green/red) but I don't know if it's a real switch or just an innard. I don't know anything about my brake pedal switch yet.





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File Type: jpg 2014-05-08 20.32.19.jpg (119.0 KB, 1186 views)
File Type: jpg 2014-05-08 20.33.31.jpg (108.5 KB, 1184 views)

Last edited by Dragrad; 16th May 2014 at 22:46.. Reason: Thumbnails enlarged
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