Oil cooler removal - V6

[p2roverman]

Have a problem removing the oil cooler from my early V6. The dip stick tube has to be removed, it is secured by one 8mm (across flats) bolt which is quite inaccessible behind a pulley. With the engine in the car the bolt cannot be seen and it’s apparently impossible to get a socket or spanner onto it as I can’t get my hand in there.
I’d welcome any hints on how to do this or an alternative way of extracting the oil cooler. (Water hoses off, bolts out, oil hoses detached from filter housing)

I suspect a failure causing oil in the water but read that only models with air conditioning had it fitted. Initially I plan to run without it while I clean out the cooling system and check there is no other cause.

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by p2roverman

I’d welcome any hints on how to do this or an alternative way of extracting the oil cooler.

Hello Mike,

Yes, that dipstick tube bracket screw is a challenge isn't it. Referring to my timing belt renewal notes you can either (1) remove the ancillary belt and idler wheel behind which the screw sits or (2) the bonnet locking platform and front bumper assembly in order to provide enough room to get a spanner onto it.

Simon

[p2roverman]

Originally Posted by SD1too

Hello Mike,

Yes, that dipstick tube bracket screw is a challenge isn't it. Referring to my timing belt renewal notes you can either (1) remove the ancillary belt and idler wheel behind which the screw sits or (2) the bonnet locking platform and front bumper assembly in order to provide enough room to get a spanner onto it.

Simon

Thanks Simon
Removing the idler was the operation NOT mentioned in Haynes, but did find that reference elsewhere. May go that route but as one wing is off and therefore one end of the bumper might be just as easy to go that way.

I need to get the car mobile asap, not roadworthy, so just need to bypass the suspect oil cooler and possibly not put back. I understand the cooler is fed by a bypass flow only so now need two blanking plugs where the pipes have been removed from above the oil filter. In fact the appropriate cooling parts from a non-a/c fitted car would be useful though I think the basic cars were not a common option when new.

[p2roverman]

With the dipsyick tube out it's still impossible to get the early oil cooler out, the gap between the compressor and sump will not allow the pipe bosses on the cooler to clear. Haynes says jack up the engine, this will release to smaller late cooler but I can see this will not help with the early type. Do I have to remove the compressor?

[vitesse]

Judging by my own experience when I removed the oil cooler to do the belts, Haynes probably thinks that the engine mount has been removed, so it's possible to get a greater lift than otherwise possible with the mount in place.


Regards

ps I did not remove the compressor

[xsport]

if i can remember correctly, when i removed my oil cooler on my kv6 2001 old type, i jacked up the engine enough to release it. this was when i did an oil bypass by having a flexi pipe with correct glands fitted each end made up for me ,and re routed from one side of the oil pump to the other close to each other. i did refit the cooler back on to keep a coolant supply back through it though , and put 2 blanking plugs in the vacated oil ports. i had already fitted the bypass oil pipe, so cut the alloy original pipes off half way and removed them. however thinking back now i did jack up the engine enough to release the cooler by removing the top mount in the engine bay, or at least slackening off for the extra lift required. dont over do this height as you can damage the exhaust to sump horseshoe plate and crack it. you can get a good quality hose made up at most hydraulic pipe places. just take your glands with you to get 2 new ones put on. you will risk a big gamble if you try to re use the originals as the threads will be damaged and will chew up easily. lube up and clean the joint threads carefully when you refit the new ones. dont ask me how i know. good luck !!

[p2roverman]

Originally Posted by xsport

if i can remember correctly, when i removed my oil cooler on my kv6 2001 old type, i jacked up the engine enough to release it. this was when i did an oil bypass by having a flexi pipe with correct glands fitted each end made up for me ,and re routed from one side of the oil pump to the other close to each other. i did refit the cooler back on to keep a coolant supply back through it though , and put 2 blanking plugs in the vacated oil ports. i had already fitted the bypass oil pipe, so cut the alloy original pipes off half way and removed them. however thinking back now i did jack up the engine enough to release the cooler by removing the top mount in the engine bay, or at least slackening off for the extra lift required. dont over do this height as you can damage the exhaust to sump horseshoe plate and crack it. you can get a good quality hose made up at most hydraulic pipe places. just take your glands with you to get 2 new ones put on. you will risk a big gamble if you try to re use the originals as the threads will be damaged and will chew up easily. lube up and clean the joint threads carefully when you refit the new ones. dont ask me how i know. good luck !!

That’s exactly the information I wanted, thanks. I understand the oil cooler is a bypass type so will get two plugs for the holes above the filter. I plan to complete the coolant pipes , incorporating a drain tap, so I can fill and flush the cooling system of oil, fortunately there was no water in the oil. This issue occurred while the car was out of use so I think and hope it’s unlikely to be a head gasket as rarely an issue on the KV6. Your advise on care while jacking up the engine much appreciated, the only other way I saw it might be possible was by removing the a/c pump