industrial floor paint question.

[Lordy]

Hiya all just recently put a thread about rust proofing going too be at it again soon.


https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=281329

Regarding floor paints as a last coat when I've done everything is it any good?
I can buy 5 litres of the stuff no problem just want too end up buying it and it doesn't stick too metal.

My theory is that industrial floors are strong and made of concrete and this paint has too stick too that plus industrial vehicles on site the paint is going too have put up a lot and my eyes that's great as our cars get everything from road debris and stone chips.

It shouldn't flake off as easily.

Supercoat Polyurethane Heavy Duty High Impact Floor
Product performance outline:
To be suitable for use on factory floors industrial floor paints must generally be tough and resistant enough to withstand:-

• The abrasion and wear that will take place i.e. from fork lifts, pallet trucks,cars,4X4 plus other vehicle movements across the factory floor.

• The static loading that is imposed on the painted factory floor surface by pallet stacking in storage, or other equipment on the floor


• Most liquid or chemical spillages that may occur on the floor i.e. Water, oils,Cutting Agents,Soft acid cleaning agents,wheel/brake cleaners,engine coolant,brake fluids some fuel's etc that are used in the processes carried out on the painted floor.

• (do not leave these to sit on the area coated they must be removed and not left to soak into the area,they will with stand the spill but not for long periods of time)

Most factory floors are reinforced concrete floors and this must obviously have sufficient strength to support all of these loadings and uses.
The functions of the industrial floor paint are:
- to strengthen and improve the factory floor surface
- to eliminate dust build up on surface (pre seal primer coating is always advised on dusty unpainted areas before a topcoat is applied)
- to increase the floors abrasion and wear resistance
- to provide the increased additional chemical resistance
- to improve the appearance and ambience of the working environment
-to speed up the cleaning/mopping of the area cutting down on time of this task and also to help combat dust issues on stock and surface contamination
- to delineate specific areas, such as: safe walking areas, parking bays or access routes and other directions etc.

What doo you think?
__________________

[suzublu]

Red Oxide Dave good as owt

[Lordy]

Originally Posted by suzublu

Red Oxide Dave good as owt

You mean like this.


But want too add more protection.

[Rogue]

I don't know but the only point i would make is that concrete is a porous surface so the paint will have no trouble bonding to it as it soaks into the pores and effectively seals the surface but it may have more of a problem bonding to a non porous surface so i would investigate if that is an issue before purchase.

[Lordy]

Originally Posted by Rogue

I don't know but the only point i would make is that concrete is a porous surface so the paint will have no trouble bonding to it as it soaks into the pores and effectively seals the surface but it may have more of a problem bonding to a non porous surface so i would investigate if that is an issue before purchase.

That's a very good point there that you made regarding being porous I do recall Tom saying that red oxide is non pours but not 100 certain on that.

Time for a little sturdy.

[Les4048]

Floor paint is for floors, floors don’t flex like a car body does so will floor paint stand flexing and not fall off ? What did you treat the car body with before painting all that stuff on ?

[Lordy]

Originally Posted by Les4048

Floor paint is for floors, floors don’t flex like a car body does so will floor paint stand flexing and not fall off ? What did you treat the car body with before painting all that stuff on ?

That's true with a car conouring and flexing yeah that cold be a problem with the paint trying too bond with meatal.

i'll forget about the floor paint now, I was thinking durability of it rather then how it would react with flex.

Thanks for the input.

What I did was at first grind every area I could and clean it up also a wire brush came in handy too.

Once I did all that I got mate's pressure washer and started cleaning underneath, final inspection again just too make sure I didn't miss anywhere.

That's when the red oxide came out and three coats later.
Still holding up well after a year that's good news, will need too give it more coats soon and will be trying the Layland trade paint and see how I get on with that.

[trikey]

Dave...

Rustproofing is as easy as this.


1. Steamclean everything.
2. Red oxide.
3. Red oxide.
4. Hammerite.

Repeat steps 2 & 3 until you are fed up. It will last forever, I have built numerous trike frames and protected them this way, the protection lasts.

[Lordy]

Originally Posted by trikey

Dave...

Rustproofing is as easy as this.


1. Steamclean everything.
2. Red oxide.
3. Red oxide.
4. Hammerite.

Repeat steps 2 & 3 until you are fed up. It will last forever, I have built numerous trike frames and protected them this way, the protection lasts.

These my steps I've done with the rest of the panels.

1 Red oxide three coats.
2 Three coats of gravitex three coats.
3 Red oxide
4 Stone chip protector.
5 Paint it too any colour you like with a beep loads of coats, my case Ford Diamond white.

I don't want this car too rust what so ever.

[Lordy]

This is the paint I'll be using too go on top of the red oxide.


£31 it cost hopefully be worth it.