How to fix problems with the Driver window and mirror control unit.

Mike · 10th April 2007, 18:38

How to fix problems with the drivers side door window and mirror switch unit.

These units can tend to fail with age, normally at the mirror control unit when the 8 - way control button fails to respond and the mirrors don’t move.

The fix is quite simple if a bit fiddly. Allow 30 minutes for this job.

Tools needed:

Feeler gauges/tweezers/jewellers screwdrivers – lots!

1 pencil eraser tip or a contact cleaner tool

cleaning cloth

Step 1

Remove the unit from car – a credit card run around the edge will free the clips holding the unit in the door.

Step 2

Unclip the 6 plastic clips (3 each side) holding the unit body halves together (see pic below). This is best done by carefully inserting tweezer ends or similar underneath the plastic surround to pull it away from the clips - you will need to insert a tweezer at each clip area simultaneously to get the clips free Make sure the unit is warm to minimise the chance of any clips breaking due to cold plastic as they can be brittle.

Note I removed all 12 clips (six lower and six upper) but this is not necessary for this work – just remove the six upper clips.

Step 3

Once the 6 clips around the top half are free you can pull the top cover off

3. Lift the switch unit housing out and put to one side

4. The top side of the circuit board becomes visible, covered in a tailored rubber membrane. The membrane contains the metal contacts that when depressed by a switch close a circuit on the board to operate a window or mirror motor.

5. Remove the rubber membrane and wash carefully in warm soapy water – put to one side to dry.

6. Carefully remove the circuit board from the base unit. Using a pencil rubber or better a contact cleaner like this from Maplins http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?...515&doy=search, clean each of the 20 switch contact areas on the circuit board.

Warning - when handling any circuit board do take anti static precautions - no walking around on nylon carpets with it in your hand etc. it is the sort of job best done whilst resting on an earthed surface - a stainless steel sink is probably the most suitable place in a modern home or use an anti static wrist band available from Maplins that you attach to a pipe or radiator.

7. Give the switches etc a general clean up, check the membrane is dry and then reassemble the unit being particularly careful to reinsert the clips without breaking them.

The pic below show the parts that make up the unit. The bottom pic shows the reverse side of the circuit board and the two plugs that the electrical sockets from the door wiring loom attach to.

8. Replace in car and test

Mike

Disclaimer:
You are responsible for any work or modifications carried out on your car and you undertake any such work at your own risk. Neither the 75 and ZT Owners Club nor the original authors in this thread can be held liable for anything that may happen as a result of you following this thread's posts.
Any modifications should be reported to your insurance company.

roverbarmy · 29th December 2015, 18:12

Just fixed my control switches using this guide:-
guide

and these tools that I bought at an electronics shop years ago. The fibreglass pen cleans the circuit board connections and the switches perfectly and the prise tool fits under the side clips spot on, without breaking the plastic.

Thanks to the OP for the excellent "how to" and hope that others can get hold of similar tools to do the job easily. No more prodding and prodding at the switches. They work straight away now. Greeeat!
Mike

10th April 2007, 18:38	#1
Mike This is my second home Rover 75 V8 Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 3,448 Thanks: 0 Thanked 206 Times in 32 Posts	How to fix problems with the Driver window and mirror control unit. How to fix problems with the drivers side door window and mirror switch unit. These units can tend to fail with age, normally at the mirror control unit when the 8 - way control button fails to respond and the mirrors don’t move. The fix is quite simple if a bit fiddly. Allow 30 minutes for this job. Tools needed: Feeler gauges/tweezers/jewellers screwdrivers – lots! 1 pencil eraser tip or a contact cleaner tool cleaning cloth Step 1 Remove the unit from car – a credit card run around the edge will free the clips holding the unit in the door. Step 2 Unclip the 6 plastic clips (3 each side) holding the unit body halves together (see pic below). This is best done by carefully inserting tweezer ends or similar underneath the plastic surround to pull it away from the clips - you will need to insert a tweezer at each clip area simultaneously to get the clips free Make sure the unit is warm to minimise the chance of any clips breaking due to cold plastic as they can be brittle. Note I removed all 12 clips (six lower and six upper) but this is not necessary for this work – just remove the six upper clips. Step 3 Once the 6 clips around the top half are free you can pull the top cover off 3. Lift the switch unit housing out and put to one side 4. The top side of the circuit board becomes visible, covered in a tailored rubber membrane. The membrane contains the metal contacts that when depressed by a switch close a circuit on the board to operate a window or mirror motor. 5. Remove the rubber membrane and wash carefully in warm soapy water – put to one side to dry. 6. Carefully remove the circuit board from the base unit. Using a pencil rubber or better a contact cleaner like this from Maplins http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?...515&doy=search, clean each of the 20 switch contact areas on the circuit board. Warning - when handling any circuit board do take anti static precautions - no walking around on nylon carpets with it in your hand etc. it is the sort of job best done whilst resting on an earthed surface - a stainless steel sink is probably the most suitable place in a modern home or use an anti static wrist band available from Maplins that you attach to a pipe or radiator. 7. Give the switches etc a general clean up, check the membrane is dry and then reassemble the unit being particularly careful to reinsert the clips without breaking them. The pic below show the parts that make up the unit. The bottom pic shows the reverse side of the circuit board and the two plugs that the electrical sockets from the door wiring loom attach to. 8. Replace in car and test Mike *Disclaimer:* You are responsible for any work or modifications carried out on your car and you undertake any such work at your own risk. Neither the 75 and ZT Owners Club nor the original authors in this thread can be held liable for anything that may happen as a result of you following this thread's posts. Any modifications should be reported to your insurance company. __________________ Mike [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

29th December 2015, 18:12	#2
roverbarmy This is my second home Roverless + 1.7D Sportage Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: East Norfolk Posts: 7,050 Thanks: 729 Thanked 2,021 Times in 1,449 Posts	Window and Mirror Controls Just fixed my control switches using this guide:- guide and these tools that I bought at an electronics shop years ago. The fibreglass pen cleans the circuit board connections and the switches perfectly and the prise tool fits under the side clips spot on, without breaking the plastic. Thanks to the OP for the excellent "how to" and hope that others can get hold of similar tools to do the job easily. No more prodding and prodding at the switches. They work straight away now. Greeeat! Mike __________________ Oil in my veins!