Door dismantling woes - Page 2

Francophile · 11th February 2020, 18:00

Thank you, Arctic, both for the photos and your reassurance. Those photos were a vital help. The clip on the bottom of the link rod defies logic, but a screwdriver between the 'fingers', as the second photo, and a scriber into the end did the trick.

Now I've hit another snag. Item 6 on page 11-12 of Haynes says "Look down inside the gap at the top of the door...". Despite, or possibly because of, spectacles, magnifying glass and torch, I can't identify anything. Should I remove the inner glass seal to give a bit more room? If yes, is the process as simple as Haynes implies in Item 3 on page 11-15?

Thanks in anticipation,

Derek.

Francophile · 12th February 2020, 13:18

Hello again,

For the benefit of those who, like me, have limited/zero knowledge of our cars and find this thread, I will answer my last question. It is impossible to see or access the clip which secures the lock embellisher without removing the inner glass seal. The illustration in Haynes is, in this case, reliable. A broad-bladed screwdriver or stiff palette knife wielded with a bit of effort will get things started. I found that after two clips had been released with a struggle the rest followed like sheep.

With the seal out of the way and using a pen light or similar, one can see diagonally through the aperture to the clip. Mine 'pinged off' without much effort. At this juncture I haven't a clue how to put it back, but I will worry about that when the time comes.

Derek.

Francophile · 12th February 2020, 17:34

Good evening,

I didn't expect to come back so quickly. The front Torx screw holding the handle mechanism is so corroded that the 'teeth' in the head have rusted away. There is nothing there for the bit to engage. I fear it may also be seized in the Mazak casting, I have soaked the screw in Plusgas, in the hope that it will free and allow a pair of pliers to loosen the screw. In the meantime, can any of our experts offer a solution. Heat is obviously the last resort and one I don't want to contemplate.

Thanks in anticipation,

Derek.

BOZZ · 12th February 2020, 18:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by Francophile

Good evening,

I didn't expect to come back so quickly. The front Torx screw holding the handle mechanism is so corroded that the 'teeth' in the head have rusted away. There is nothing there for the bit to engage. I fear it may also be seized in the Mazak casting, I have soaked the screw in Plusgas, in the hope that it will free and allow a pair of pliers to loosen the screw. In the meantime, can any of our experts offer a solution. Heat is obviously the last resort and one I don't want to contemplate.

Thanks in anticipation,

Derek.

In one way I do love to just simply help you with my own hands and you not so far from me , but for just personal life excuses i cannot do that now .about unscrew bolt if you have grips they not bad go , try soak in brake fluid even just couple drops around bolt live for wile ( too many yes and no about that of it is help or not) more likely it is just top rust and with a bit of pressure his will come out.So in this case I wish you best of luck

Arctic · 12th February 2020, 22:01

I am afraid you may be in for a bit of bad look, I say this because 9 times out or 10 the little torx screws sheer off, when trying to remove them.

I have added some photo below which may help with a visual once you have the handle off but you should be able to remove the key barrel with out removing the door handle I could be wrong.

To remove this cap around the key barrel.

1

You first need to get to this spring clip.

2

The spring clip must be pulled outwards.

3

The cap can then be removed.

4

5

The door handle can now be pulled & forward to remove it.

6

7

If the torx does sheer off with the handle removed you would be able to drill the screw out.

8

9

10

Francophile · 13th February 2020, 17:44

Thanks, Arctic, for another useful set of photos.

I have observed that the handle mechanism can be slid forward, once the screws are loosened. If the corroded screw can't be released via the Plusgas treatment perhaps Bozz's suggestion of a couple of drops of brake fluid will soften the paint locally and aid removal. I will try to tap the mechanism forward. There is the possibility that the paint under screw head, when softened, will shear.

Watch this space!

Derek.

Francophile · 15th February 2020, 16:52

Hello again,

The corroded screw at the front of the handle mechanism is not responding to gentle persuasion and I've decided to spare the casting any shock treatment. I tried cutting a slot for a screwdriver, using a knife-edge Swiss file. The slot was relatively easy, but my biggest screwdriver, even with a spanner on its hexagonal shaft, failed to budge the screw. The solution was much simpler, and I recommend it to anyone who uses this thread in the future. First off, drill straight down through the centre of the screw, using a good quality 2.5mm or 3mm bit, so that you have a 'tube'. Follow this with a decent quality 5mm drill bit, which will self-centre in the screw and take the head off cleanly. That releases the handle mechanism and leaves the seized portion of the screw for removal when convenient. Phew!
NB: It is easier to hollow out the screw while the head is intact. I didn't and had great difficulty drilling out the screw, hence this edit.

Everything relevant is out of the door and the cable in the black 'box' is the culprit.

[/IMG]

I can return to https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=302103 to finish the repair for the benefit (?) of others.

Thanks for all the help that has got me this far.

Derek.

Francophile · 1st March 2020, 18:01

I'm back again, looking for more expert guidance.

All the locking mechanism is repaired, installed in the door and working properly. Now I'm returning to the wry observation in post #12 of this thread. How does one replace the spring clip that secures the door lock embellisher? The screwdriver trick in Haynes doesn't work in reverse. There must be a simple solution because MG Rover did it on the production line, but it eludes me. Help, please!

Derek.

trikey · 1st March 2020, 18:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by Francophile

I'm back again, looking for more expert guidance.

All the locking mechanism is repaired, installed in the door and working properly. Now I'm returning to the wry observation in post #12 of this thread. How does one replace the spring clip that secures the door lock embellisher? The screwdriver trick in Haynes doesn't work in reverse. There must be a simple solution because MG Rover did it on the production line, but it eludes me. Help, please!

Derek.

Normally 'close' the clip when its off the door then the cover just pushes into place and the spring holds it there.

12th February 2020, 22:01	#15
Arctic Give to Learn Freelander 2 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: West Midlands Posts: 18,716 Thanks: 1,155 Thanked 6,407 Times in 3,874 Posts	I am afraid you may be in for a bit of bad look, I say this because 9 times out or 10 the little torx screws sheer off, when trying to remove them. I have added some photo below which may help with a visual once you have the handle off but you should be able to remove the key barrel with out removing the door handle I could be wrong. To remove this cap around the key barrel. 1 You first need to get to this spring clip. 2 The spring clip must be pulled outwards. 3 The cap can then be removed. 4 5 The door handle can now be pulled & forward to remove it. 6 7 If the torx does sheer off with the handle removed you would be able to drill the screw out. 8 9 10 __________________ Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise "

15th February 2020, 16:52	#17
Francophile Avid contributor Rover 75 2.0 V6 Connoisseur SE Saloon Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Hassocks, West Sussex Posts: 192 Thanks: 51 Thanked 24 Times in 15 Posts	Hello again, The corroded screw at the front of the handle mechanism is not responding to gentle persuasion and I've decided to spare the casting any shock treatment. I tried cutting a slot for a screwdriver, using a knife-edge Swiss file. The slot was relatively easy, but my biggest screwdriver, even with a spanner on its hexagonal shaft, failed to budge the screw. The solution was much simpler, and I recommend it to anyone who uses this thread in the future. First off, drill straight down through the centre of the screw, using a good quality 2.5mm or 3mm bit, so that you have a 'tube'. Follow this with a decent quality 5mm drill bit, which will self-centre in the screw and take the head off cleanly. That releases the handle mechanism and leaves the seized portion of the screw for removal when convenient. Phew! NB: It is easier to hollow out the screw while the head is intact. I didn't and had great difficulty drilling out the screw, hence this edit. Everything relevant is out of the door and the cable in the black 'box' is the culprit. [/IMG] I can return to https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=302103 to finish the repair for the benefit (?) of others. Thanks for all the help that has got me this far. Derek. Last edited by Francophile; 23rd February 2020 at 17:44.. Reason: Bitter experience drilling out the headless screw!

11th February 2020, 18:00	#11
Francophile Avid contributor Rover 75 2.0 V6 Connoisseur SE Saloon Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Hassocks, West Sussex Posts: 192 Thanks: 51 Thanked 24 Times in 15 Posts	Thank you, Arctic, both for the photos and your reassurance. Those photos were a vital help. The clip on the bottom of the link rod defies logic, but a screwdriver between the 'fingers', as the second photo, and a scriber into the end did the trick. Now I've hit another snag. Item 6 on page 11-12 of Haynes says "Look down inside the gap at the top of the door...". Despite, or possibly because of, spectacles, magnifying glass and torch, I can't identify anything. Should I remove the inner glass seal to give a bit more room? If yes, is the process as simple as Haynes implies in Item 3 on page 11-15? Thanks in anticipation, Derek.

12th February 2020, 13:18	#12
Francophile Avid contributor Rover 75 2.0 V6 Connoisseur SE Saloon Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Hassocks, West Sussex Posts: 192 Thanks: 51 Thanked 24 Times in 15 Posts	Hello again, For the benefit of those who, like me, have limited/zero knowledge of our cars and find this thread, I will answer my last question. It is impossible to see or access the clip which secures the lock embellisher without removing the inner glass seal. The illustration in Haynes is, in this case, reliable. A broad-bladed screwdriver or stiff palette knife wielded with a bit of effort will get things started. I found that after two clips had been released with a struggle the rest followed like sheep. With the seal out of the way and using a pen light or similar, one can see diagonally through the aperture to the clip. Mine 'pinged off' without much effort. At this juncture I haven't a clue how to put it back, but I will worry about that when the time comes. Derek.

12th February 2020, 17:34	#13
Francophile Avid contributor Rover 75 2.0 V6 Connoisseur SE Saloon Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Hassocks, West Sussex Posts: 192 Thanks: 51 Thanked 24 Times in 15 Posts	Good evening, I didn't expect to come back so quickly. The front Torx screw holding the handle mechanism is so corroded that the 'teeth' in the head have rusted away. There is nothing there for the bit to engage. I fear it may also be seized in the Mazak casting, I have soaked the screw in Plusgas, in the hope that it will free and allow a pair of pliers to loosen the screw. In the meantime, can any of our experts offer a solution. Heat is obviously the last resort and one I don't want to contemplate. Thanks in anticipation, Derek.

13th February 2020, 17:44	#16
Francophile Avid contributor Rover 75 2.0 V6 Connoisseur SE Saloon Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Hassocks, West Sussex Posts: 192 Thanks: 51 Thanked 24 Times in 15 Posts	Thanks, Arctic, for another useful set of photos. I have observed that the handle mechanism can be slid forward, once the screws are loosened. If the corroded screw can't be released via the Plusgas treatment perhaps Bozz's suggestion of a couple of drops of brake fluid will soften the paint locally and aid removal. I will try to tap the mechanism forward. There is the possibility that the paint under screw head, when softened, will shear. Watch this space! Derek.

1st March 2020, 18:01	#18
Francophile Avid contributor Rover 75 2.0 V6 Connoisseur SE Saloon Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Hassocks, West Sussex Posts: 192 Thanks: 51 Thanked 24 Times in 15 Posts	I'm back again, looking for more expert guidance. All the locking mechanism is repaired, installed in the door and working properly. Now I'm returning to the wry observation in post #12 of this thread. How does one replace the spring clip that secures the door lock embellisher? The screwdriver trick in Haynes doesn't work in reverse. There must be a simple solution because MG Rover did it on the production line, but it eludes me. Help, please! Derek.