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1st December 2018, 09:08 | #1 |
Posted a thing or two
Honda Jazz Join Date: Jan 2012
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Battery question
I went out to start my cdt this morning for the first time in a fortnight, when I turned the key all I heard was a single click, tried again same result. I left it a minute, tried again and the car fired up perfectly. The battery is a Yuasa 3000, just a year old and is still showing a green indicator for good condition, any thoughts? .
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1st December 2018, 09:16 | #2 |
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Rover 75CDT, Jaguar XF-S 3.0V6, V'xhall Omega V6 Estate, Twintop 1.8VVT, Astra Estate and Corsa 1.2 Join Date: Dec 2007
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The first step is to take it out of the car and put it on a conventional car battery charger (say a 4Amp charger) for 24 hours. Then reinstall in the car and see how it behaves over the next few days/weeks.
Hopefully it is just a case of the battery being discharged due to lack of use. |
1st December 2018, 09:20 | #3 |
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Thank you for your advice, the thing is why did the car start quite normally on the third attempt, and why is the batteries built in indicator showing good battert state?.
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1st December 2018, 09:24 | #4 |
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It could be all sorts of reasons, including that the glow plugs will have drawn a fairly hefty current when cold thus perhaps depleting the battery to a level below the required threshold.
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2nd December 2018, 20:37 | #5 |
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3rd December 2018, 10:39 | #6 |
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I am very impressed with the result of my query, it has drawn a wonderful response from so many members with such a wealth of knowledge, it augers well for the future of the club and the ongoing maintenance of our cars.
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3rd December 2018, 15:58 | #7 |
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The acid is separate in each cell. No mixing.---
In my former life as a Toolmaker I have made tools for the construction of car batteries. ( Pillars, links, grids etc. ) I have also constructed batteries from their component parts. Inside knowledge, so to speak.---Lol. |
3rd December 2018, 16:16 | #8 |
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Normally when a battery 'Suddenly' fails it's because one cell had died.
Two main reasons. One is the plates have become detached from the base of the internal link. The second is that lead paste from the internal grids had fallen to the bottom of the cell and created a dead short across the bottom of the plates. ( The plates normally kept from touching by separators between them. ) Both failures normally caused by a life filled with vibration inherent during the usage of the car. The check required for taking pot luck at a car breakers is to do a VOLTAGE check of the battery.---No matter if the battery is charged or not a reading of around 12 volts will tell you if all six cells are connected. However this is only a rough check and won't tell you if the battery will take and hold a charge.--- Bit of a lottery.---- |
1st December 2018, 09:29 | #9 |
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Hi Alan.
What mileage as your car done now, if over 75,000 then do not rule out the contacts & plunger in the starter motor, check the battery see how much charge is in it. Also remove the spade end on the starter motor and clean it up, pinch the spade end a little over time they work lose due to vibration. If it is the starter which my bet is on then click the link below. https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=227316 Also as a maintenance check click the link. https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=239567
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1st December 2018, 09:40 | #10 |
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The car has only covered 65k, when I have had flat batteries in the past the ignition has made a multiple clicking sound and no way would it start, on this occasion just a single click. I then used the digital in car check, 19/9 which showed 11.4 volts. The car then started quite ok on the next attempt.
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