Rover 75 V6 - Newbie help

[Lord of Hog]

Just to give a comparison in prices re the coolant filler cap. Rover part (from somewhere other than Rimmers) about £8. Land Rover part about £6.50. Replacement rings (including postage) about £4 plus a bit of sellotape and a few minutes to fit them.

[madsega]

Buy a second-hand Haynes manual from e-bay.

DONE

The oil filler is part of the LH bank camshaft cover. It's not a container so is quite normal for it to look relatively dry. Use the dispstick to check the oil level, on a warm engine which isn't running and after letting it stand for five minutes.

Using the dipstick, the oil is withing normal levels but smells burnt.

The clip for the rear armrest is available from Rimmers, here:
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-HWJ000020SCD

Thank you vitesse

Shannon Tube

From what I see in the thread, I would need a 70mm at about 50cm length.

The engine should normally operate at around 90C. You can't tell anything from the temperature gauge ('normal' can be anywhere betweeen 75C and 115C), so pretty useless. The only way to know is by using the Trip Screen Diagnostics.

Indeed, when steam was getting out from the expansion tank, the temperature gauge was telling 90C. Will have to use some Diagnostics.

While opening the oil cap, upon a closer inspection I found something that I'm not entirely sure it's supposed to be there or not.

Cam cover breather mesh?[/QUOTE]
So should I pull that out or is it normal for that to be in there? Also, should I add something (aditives) to clean the deposits inside the camshaft?

Try to upload smaller photos (800 pixels max) to make your posts easier to read.

Was thinking the same thing, all resized now.

In theory the clutch reservoir doesn't need filling, supposed to be a sealed system. Its a pain to get at in a right hand drive car, don't know how accessible it is in a left hander.

I guess we'll find out

In addition to what T-Cut said about the header tank cap seals, if you are replacing them replace them with VITON seals. More durable than rubber.

I don't see anything here regarding the Viton seals, or any of the caps saying they have viton seals. I found these coolant cap O rings, 2 pounds + 4.49 for international shipping. Are these the right ones?

Where is this container and what sort of oil are you putting in it.?

Exactly what I wanted to ask you guys. Would you recommend normal, semi-syntetic, full sintetic oil? And which type/brand?

* Another thing I noticed when pulling the door covers to fix the electric windows, the inside of the door had water and was filled with rust debris. What should I use inside the door to prevent rust from forming and where exactly are the water leak holes to clean them so water gets out from the door?

I will have to check the plenum this weekend to see if it's clear or clogged. Maybe even do the peek-hole hack.

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by madsega

... I also did follow SD1too request to start the engine cold, turn on the demist button and check the radiator grille. The big fan behind the radiator didn't moved at all as can be seen in this video.

Great video, thanks. Your radiator fan isn't working on its slow speed. This could explain the steam you've seen.

Your year 2000 V6 would originally have had a 3 speed fan but this might have been changed for the later 2 speed system. We first need to find out which you have and fortunately that's easy. Have a look at these photographs taken through the radiator grille. Do you have the resistor present or not?

Originally Posted by T-Cut

Cam cover breather mesh?

T-Cut could well be correct here. You'll need to remove the cam cover to find out. The Haynes manual will come in handy here because it gives the tightening sequence of the cam cover screws.

Simon

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by madsega

Using the dipstick, the oil is withing normal levels but smells burnt.

Put an oil change on your list of things to do.

From what I see in the thread, I would need a 70mm at about 50cm length.

Correct.

Cam cover breather mesh?
So should I pull that out or is it normal for that to be in there?

No, it's not normal and neither is that 'tube' also visible. Remove the cam cover to find out what's going on.

Also, should I add something (aditives) to clean the deposits inside the camshaft?

I wouldn't worry too much about that. After draining the oil you could use Comma Flush Out or equivalent. It won't remove the glazing in one session but will be beneficial to an engine with contaminated oil. It is drained completely before renewing the filter and refilling with clean 10W40 engine oil of your choice.

Simon

[madsega]

Your year 2000 V6 would originally have had a 3 speed fan but this might have been changed for the later 2 speed system. We first need to find out which you have and fortunately that's easy. Have a look at these photographs taken through the radiator grille. Do you have the resistor present or not?

There are 2 empty wholes like the ones in the picture below at 1-2 o'clock angle


@SD1too

Put an oil change on your list of things to do.

I'm planning of changing all the fluids in the car, I don't know when he did changed them but I don't want to take any risks.

I will have to wait for the manual and also order a torque wrench then remove the camshaft cover and see what's going on in there.

[vitesse]

Personally I wouldn’t wait too long to investigate the wire mesh inside the front camshaft cover as I wouldn’t like to think what could happen if it moves. The normal two mesh filters fit inside a recess and I can’t see them moving as they're quite stiff but your picture does seem to match the gauge and appearance of these filters.

You could always have a look and torque up the bolts later, to be honest I’ve done this job of replacing the mesh filters (or separators) on three cars and never bothered with my torque wrench as I reckon I’ve got a good feel for now tight they were and should be.

As SD1 too suggests, your fan is of three speed type and can often be repaired by just renewing one or two of the four carbon brushes, I suggest you order two. You can get them here https://www.old-germany.de/ecommerce...g2s1smq9p6pq86

Regards

[madsega]

Originally Posted by vitesse

Personally I wouldn’t wait too long to investigate the wire mesh inside the front camshaft cover as I wouldn’t like to think what could happen if it moves.

......

As SD1 too suggests, your fan is of three speed type and can often be repaired by just renewing one or two of the four carbon brushes, I suggest you order two. You can get them here https://www.old-germany.de/ecommerce...g2s1smq9p6pq86

Regards

I will investigate more tomorrow and let you guys know what's up inside the camshaft. I have to say that this is my secondary car, it hasn't moved since I bought it, only started her up every couple of days for 10-15 minutes. I want to first fix it and not brake it more. It's in pretty bad condition as you guys can see but I'm willing to fix it.

Regarding the carbon brush, I will have to check and see if I can find it somewhere else , they don't ship to my country unfortunately.

Also, earlier I picked something from the trunk/boot and noticed that there was water inside and the textile was soaking wet. What would I have to check. Maybe some clogged water drain holes and where would I look?


Thank you guys so much for all the help

[vitesse]

OK plan b supplier .... https://www.engineeringcarbonproduct...on-brushes.php

I won't use them even though they are a UK supplier as their postage rates to Europe are so inflated and in my opinion unfair. You'll also find that you have to order a set of four even though you probably only need one or two.

My latest 75 saloon had a wet boot too which I found came through the rear lights. The seals had split (very common) and allowed water to drain in, I stitched (one only) the broken ends together and then used glue to finish the joint. They've been fine since.

Regards

[bl52krz]

Take the rear lights off the body.Remove the seals and wipe all round the area where they fit. Dry the seals out and then run a bead of silicon sealant round the seal inner side, and fit to the body. Run another silicon bead on the outside where the lens fits. It will never leak again. There is a split in the seal, make sure you close the gap when fitting the seal to the body.

[Lord of Hog]

The other potential cause of water in the boot is badly fitted vents. Pull back the lining from the sides of the boot and you'll see a louvred plastic vent. The outside of it is behind the rear bumper and not particularly protected from all the spray thrown up by the rear wheels. If in doubt then apply the same generous helping of silicon sealer as prescribed for the rear light units.