Possible Fuel Filter Seperation

[frostybot1977]

Now the cold weather has set in my car as developed a slight start problem. It starts fine and goes to about 1,000 rpm, then immediately drops then bounces back up to about 1,200 rpm until the engine is warm and then idles around 600 rpm. Last week, when dropping after starting, it stalled but then started on a second attempt with me slightly pressing the accelerator. Today it nearly stalled again, but I got to the accelerator first.

I bought the fuel filter clip (which is now white - aftermarket) when I bought the car a couple of months ago, but not got around to fitting it. My problem now is that my fuel tank is full as I have a 600 mile drive to France at the weekend.

Firstly do the symptoms sound like the fuel filter separation? I have a 52 plate mk1, 2.5 KV6. Not sure I have the filter that separates until I get the seat up.

I'm presuming that for ease the tank needs to be nearer to empty to fit the clip?

Also does the seat need to completely come out, or does it just lift up?

Cheers all

[frostybot1977]

Okay finally found a previous post that says "don't do it with a full tank." But still wondering if the symptoms fit the fuel filter?

[trikey]

I would say its more likely to be a sticking plastic 'T' piece inside the throttle body, you need part number MKG100260L

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001951

[T-Cut]

I did my filter clip with the rear seat cushion just lifted up and held out of the way somehow. You can check whether the filter takes the orange clip (or whatever colour you have) by simply looking at it. No dismantling is needed for that. With the cushion lifted and the floor covering moved out of the way, remove the floor hatch. The top of the filter module is immediately visible. Filters with a square 'honeycomb' lattice on top need the clip. The earlier filter has a plainer top with two circular lifting lugs on it. That type doesn't need the clip.

Having said that, your description of the startup and running doesn't seem fuel filter related to me. Pressing the throttle means a greater fuel demand, which you seem to get. A leaking filter inhibits an increased fuel supply. Of course the only way to eliminate the filter issue is to install a clip.

A low fuel level is obviously more convenient, but lifting up the filter module can be done either way. It's always a bit messy and the potential danger exists whatever you do.

How to lift the rear seat cushion the easy way (scroll down to Post 3): https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for....php?p=2531165:

EDIT: That's the left hand hatch BTW.

TC

[frostybot1977]

Originally Posted by trikey

I would say its more likely to be a sticking plastic 'T' piece inside the throttle body, you need part number MKG100260L

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001951

Thanks Trikey. I'm not that mechanically minded, but seem cheap enough to buy and then get my garage to fit if needed. I can do basic stuff. I did inline stat mod and filters, engine hoses, etc on my diesels in the past. Is this kit along that line?

This would make more sense than the fuel filter I guess.

[frostybot1977]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

I did my filter clip with the rear seat cushion just lifted up and held out of the way somehow. You can check whether the filter takes the orange clip (or whatever colour you have) by simply looking at it. No dismantling is needed for that. With the cushion lifted and the floor covering moved out of the way, remove the floor hatch. The top of the filter module is immediately visible. Filters with a square 'honeycomb' lattice on top need the clip. The earlier filter has a plainer top with two circular lifting lugs on it. That type doesn't need the clip.

Having said that, your description of the startup and running doesn't seem fuel filter related to me. Pressing the throttle means a greater fuel demand, which you seem to get. A leaking filter inhibits an increased fuel supply. Of course the only way to eliminate the filter issue is to install a clip.

A low fuel level is obviously more convenient, but lifting up the filter module can be done either way. It's always a bit messy and the potential danger exists whatever you do.

How to lift the rear seat cushion the easy way (scroll down to Post 3): https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for....php?p=2531165:

EDIT: That's the left hand hatch BTW.

TC

Thank you T-Cut. I will check in between showers. Torrential rain forecast here for 5 days now.

[trikey]

If you can do the inline stat, fitting this kit is easier still, 20 mins at most and you will have it done.

[frostybot1977]

Originally Posted by trikey

If you can do the inline stat, fitting this kit is easier still, 20 mins at most and you will have it done.

Brilliant I'll do it regardless since it's only £12 (presuming I got the right kit lol)

[trikey]

Originally Posted by frostybot1977

Brilliant I'll do it regardless since it's only £12 (presuming I got the right kit lol)

Yeah, its a good price, the plastic T piece warps over time and doesn't allow smooth movement, hence the revs sticking.

[frostybot1977]

Okay, ordered the part, should be here Friday. But where is the throttle body on this engine?