Simple fix for another handbrake issue

[RPWC]

Recently I heard a squeaking noise from the rear wheels which didn't disappear under braking.
After removing the disc etc this is what I discovered the hole in the backplate,where the shoe retaining pin goes through,had elongated due to rust.
Rather than face a large garage bill to replace the backplate,an inexpensive part,but labour intensive job,or struggle to get it off myself,here's a simple fix.
Get a self tapping screw thin enough to fit through the hole in the shoe,and long enough to go through the shoe and pin locating hole, with about 3-4mm spare,and a spire nut.
To those who don't know what a spire nut is,it's a thin piece of sheet metal,folded through 180 degrees,and has a hole in one side,and a smaller one on the other ,to enable a screw to affix to it. They are usually used to mount speakers on door cards.
Anyway,a small spire nut is required,here's how to do it, make sure the brake shoe is secured to the backplate by using mole grips,hold the spire nut over the pin locating hole,at the rear of the backplate using your fingers or a pair of long nose pliers, push the screw through the hole in the brake shoe,and tighten it.
Once the spire nut is secure against the backplate,remove the grips and continue tightening the screw until the shoe is secure,but can easily be moved from side to side,with a screwdriver ,or light tap with a hammer.
Job done,then refit disc,caliper mounting bracket ,brake pads and caliper,and adjust handbrake ,as described in several threads on the forum .
Hope this helps,it worked for me.

[Unclefista]

Good fix

If you're searching for the nuts, if they're the ones I'm thinking of they're called "Spire nuts".



I had the same problem, I fixed mine with bolts, looks like overkill, but using springs the shoes have the same movement as before

[RPWC]

Originally Posted by Unclefista

Good fix

If you're searching for the nuts, if they're the ones I'm thinking of they're called "Spire nuts".



I had the same problem, I fixed mine with bolts, looks like overkill, but using springs the shoes have the same movement as before

Thanks for the pics Tony,had thought of using your method,but didn't have any suitable bolts available at the time

[Unclefista]

My method is ok, but there is limited room behind the backplate, so the bolt has to go in from the front.
Trying to get them into the nuts is a massive pain, you need a hand to hold the nut, another to hold the pliers and at least once more to hold the shoes and I've had to do it twice

One day I'll take the backplates off and weld them, probably..

[RPWC]

Originally Posted by Unclefista

My method is ok, but there is limited room behind the backplate, so the bolt has to go in from the front.
Trying to get them into the nuts is a massive pain, you need a hand to hold the nut, another to hold the pliers and at least once more to hold the shoes and I've had to do it twice

One day I'll take the backplates off and weld them, probably..

Know the feeling, I have a spare backplate,but the n/s one is gonna be a problem,as the inner bearing race has come off,and is stuck on the stub axle. One day maybe the trailing shoe on the o/s has no room behind the backplate,so pointy nose pliers come in handy to hold spire nut.

[David Lawrence]

Originally Posted by Unclefista

Good fix

If you're searching for the nuts, if they're the ones I'm thinking of they're called "Spire nuts".



I had the same problem, I fixed mine with bolts, looks like overkill, but using springs the shoes have the same movement as before

I've just gone the bolt route today. My handbrake suddenly slipped from 3 clicks to a kind of 3 clicks with a bit of a roll, then locking on which seemed a bit funny. I've been using the technique of applying the handbrake a few meters before coming to a stop to keep the drum clean, but during one of these, the brake made a kind of lurch. Sure enough the pins have pulled through the backplate, which is near perfect condition apart from this. I had some stainless bolts but they are only just long enough so can only just get the nut on them. I will need better ones when I can find some. Because it was so short I couldnt get the nut on one of them very easily so I ended up taping the nut to my little finger to hold it in place while I pushed the bolt through from the other side. All done for now, but need to find some longer bolts with some nyloc nuts to make sure they don't shake loose. I used threadlock for now.

Silly backplate design. I'm used to the pins pushing through from the back, with a spring steel cup on the shoes side, at least then all you need to replace is the cup.

[David Lawrence]

Originally Posted by David Lawrence

I've just gone the bolt route today. My handbrake suddenly slipped from 3 clicks to a kind of 3 clicks with a bit of a roll, then locking on which seemed a bit funny. I've been using the technique of applying the handbrake a few meters before coming to a stop to keep the drum clean, but during one of these, the brake made a kind of lurch. Sure enough the pins have pulled through the backplate, which is near perfect condition apart from this. I had some stainless bolts but they are only just long enough so can only just get the nut on them. I will need better ones when I can find some. Because it was so short I couldnt get the nut on one of them very easily so I ended up taping the nut to my little finger to hold it in place while I pushed the bolt through from the other side. All done for now, but need to find some longer bolts with some nyloc nuts to make sure they don't shake loose. I used threadlock for now.

Silly backplate design. I'm used to the pins pushing through from the back, with a spring steel cup on the shoes side, at least then all you need to replace is the cup.

Parts arrived today so now have the handbrake shoes held down with a proper hold down kit

hold down springs.JPG

hold down pins.JPG

parts.JPG

All the bits cost about £5 and now looks much more secure. took the opportunity to free up the handbrake expander which was pretty rusty. Just got the other side to do now.

[craig8661]

Do you have any part numbers for the clips or any links thanks Craig

[David Lawrence]

Originally Posted by craig8661

Do you have any part numbers for the clips or any links thanks Craig

Craig,

These are the ones i got. I used new springs because my old ones were completely solid with rust, and you need them longer anyway to be able to squeeze them in to place over the hold down plates. A little tip is to squeeze the springs down first in a vice or pliers and then cable tie them closed until you get everything in place then just snip the cable tie out with cutters. I put stainless washers under the head of the hold down pins just to avoid them pulling through the rusty part of the plate again, but i already had the washers in my bits box.

Hopefully the pictures in the thread are enough by way of explanation.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-X-FORD-B.../270945117821?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-X-GIRLIN.../270945123215?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-X-GIRLIN.../270945123215?


I was a bit surprised that the BR51 pairs with the BR62 as its not easy to tell from the photos on the website that's why I took my photo with the parts still in the bags just to be sure. I bought some BR52 and BR61's as well as I wasn't sure which would fit best, but the thinner ones are best I found for the particular springs I had chosen.

[thecrofter]

I used a split pin and a couple of washers to solve the problem, seems OK so far.