Drop Link Rubbish

[murphyv310]

Originally Posted by David Lawrence

I also purchased delphi and fitted them all round on 2 cars. One is defitately gone now, and another is suspect. I bought delphi as i thought this was the brand fitted in the factory, but they are very poor to fail so quickly.

It's just like my long gone trade, a Bush TV was once recognised as a quality set, now Bush is just a name containing Chinese tat. Same with many car parts these days

[chris75]

I've read so many times that the trade is riddled with counterfeit parts . Just because it says Delphi on the box doesn't mean it is Delphi
Buying from a known , trusted major dealer might help but stay away from iffy cheap deals for sure .

[bl52krz]

The Delphi drop links I bought from Autossesive. Quite a well known company.I will be visiting them next week with the useless droplink, to see what they can do about it, since it was only on the car for 8 months.

[genpk]

Did a bit of an a/b re the cheap replacement versus the original mgr drop links.First thing I noticed was the quality and size of the rubber boot.
Mgr one , the boot was bigger and made of a way thicker rubber, secondlly the amount of grease in the new boot is very little due to boot size and not being filled enough.
You can remove the boot by removing the spring loaded "C" clip around the rubber and fill it with grease as mentioned

[murphyv310]

Hi.
I did that with a pair I bought via a local motor factors, a few months later the boots at the bottom were all split and the grease has spewed out....... so did the excess cause the problem or was the rubber boot just a load of old tat?

[Master]

Originally Posted by bl52krz

Well, tea time I decided that I would start my project of changing the INNER TIE ROD on the near side. The tie rods came from our friend DMRGS. Thanks again Matt.Took wheel off. Then undid the trackrod. Tried to feel the play that I suspected because of a constant rattle as I drove over undulating rough roads. No play in track rod end, 15 years old in December.Tried the inner tie rod for play which I suspected because I had replaced the drop links less than a year ago ( Delphi), and no, there was no play in that. Mmmmmm. Can't be the drop links? Undid the drop link on near side, bottom undone first, and guess what, the top joint has play in it. What a load of cackle. Where do they get their parts from? The chocolate factory? Always thought Delphi were a good reliable company, not anymore. These will be going back to them via Autosessive where I got them from. As an aside, I kept the old links because they were ok. I was doing some of my 'before it happens' job's.So tonight, I put back on a 14 year old drop link that is still serviceable. Now to download the receipt from my e.mails to return it.

I have just changed the anti roll bar bushes thinking they were the cause of the rattling on my R75 it wasnt so im about to change my drop links i also have 2 new bottom arms to put on incase the rattle isnt the drop links

[murphyv310]

Originally Posted by Master

I have just changed the anti roll bar bushes thinking they were the cause of the rattling on my R75 it wasnt so im about to change my drop links i also have 2 new bottom arms to put on incase the rattle isnt the drop links

I'd imagine that once off it would be obvious if they are shot.
Any I've changed are either sloppy and loose or the rubber boots are split and full of water.
You can take them off altogether and do a test run, if the rattling goes then you know what's wrong if it persists then look elsewhere. Don't worry unless you go flying round corners you'll be safe enough with them off.

[genpk]

Originally Posted by Master

I have just changed the anti roll bar bushes thinking they were the cause of the rattling on my R75 it wasnt so im about to change my drop links i also have 2 new bottom arms to put on incase the rattle isnt the drop links

Process of elimination, can also be the strut top bearings although that usually make the steering not by more than rattley.
The wishbone is the hardest to ascertain.
Ive have mechanics look at suspect ones and say there all fine.
Because the car has load on them it's hard to see/ feel any wear on them unless there really gone.

[bl52krz]

The best way to test trackrod ends is to jack the car up on what you think is the offending side, and then either you , or get someone to do it, turn the steering wheel,while you look at the trackrod end and see if it is moving between the hub arm, and the actual trackrod end. If it shows sign of movement, get it changed, it cream crackered. So I am told, the top strut bearing is probably worn if the steering makes a 'twanging' sound, and if you grip the suspension spring while the steering is turned, you can feel it jerk, then your suspension top strut bearing is goosed.at

[ZedTeeT]

Originally Posted by Lord Rover

Have too agree with Trevor on that one.

I've bought countless drop links for mine and every single one I had failed, so bought these from Germany and it should last hopefully, I fitted them before Andy Trikey came too pick the car up.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FOR-ROVER-...EAAOSwAYtWOKbc

There the once I bought most expensive set and a good quality too them as well, question do they last?

Hopefully Christine won't need them replaced in a good long while.

I purchased some of those Mayle drop links too and must admit they do look well made. Can't comment on them yet as still haven't got around to fitting them. They offer a 4 year warranty too!