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Old 29th January 2015, 11:34   #21
theridler
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Thanks very much for this write up - just right!
Do you remember what the model number was for the burner? The reason I ask is that you use the rubber gasket between the blower motor housing and blower fan assembly, where as on my spare unit (older version 66232C...) it uses the paper type gasket & there's distinctly less locating pegs??? Having followed this write up with my spare unit (absolutely no hassles except using wife's, or should I say our..., best washing up bowl!), I'm now ready to attack the one that's playing up in the car (this one's the later version 68570D .... or something like that!). I suppose when I've stripped that one down I'll be able to answer my own question! :-)
Again - really appreciate the how to...
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Old 29th January 2015, 17:55   #22
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Thanks very much for this write up - just right!
Do you remember what the model number was for the burner? The reason I ask is that you use the rubber gasket between the blower motor housing and blower fan assembly, where as on my spare unit (older version 66232C...) it uses the paper type gasket & there's distinctly less locating pegs??? Having followed this write up with my spare unit (absolutely no hassles except using wife's, or should I say our..., best washing up bowl!), I'm now ready to attack the one that's playing up in the car (this one's the later version 68570D .... or something like that!). I suppose when I've stripped that one down I'll be able to answer my own question! :-)
Again - really appreciate the how to...
This was done on the newer version, so quite possible that you need to use the paper gasket instead of the rubber one. I would replace like for like, the right parts are included in the kit
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Old 29th January 2015, 19:25   #23
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This was done on the newer version, so quite possible that you need to use the paper gasket instead of the rubber one. I would replace like for like, the right parts are included in the kit
I covered all of this long ago. Replacement gasket sets are really not essential, usually the old ones will be fine to reuse as are the bolts.

Rich suggested scrapping the carbon from the burner gauze. I should point out that the carbon is extremely hard and is unlikely to scrap off, without damage to the gauze and the gaze is not replaceable. The best way is to chip it gently, so as to break it up then it will fall out without damage.

There really is no need to get the heat exchanger spotless, a thin coating of soot will enhance the extraction of heat from the flame.


Other than the above, good write up.
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Old 29th January 2015, 21:13   #24
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I covered all of this long ago. Replacement gasket sets are really not essential, usually the old ones will be fine to reuse as are the bolts.

Rich suggested scrapping the carbon from the burner gauze. I should point out that the carbon is extremely hard and is unlikely to scrap off, without damage to the gauze and the gaze is not replaceable. The best way is to chip it gently, so as to break it up then it will fall out without damage.

There really is no need to get the heat exchanger spotless, a thin coating of soot will enhance the extraction of heat from the flame.


Other than the above, good write up.
I have never stripped an fbh that I thought the gaskets could be reused and I have stripped both eberspacher and webasto models. Plus for the pittance the kit costs is it even worth not replacing them?

I do mention being careful with the gauze, but replacement burner assemblies are available should it become damaged.

Soot is an insulator, any buildup will reduce thermal efficiency. I still recommend cleaning the heat exchanger throughly.

These heaters are not maintenance free and like anything else require parts from time to time. The fan and burner assembly are considered service items and are supposed to be replaced as per the heaters service schedule. The how to shows you how to clean the burner assembly which would be replaced if you sent it to an authorised repairer.
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Old 29th January 2015, 22:01   #25
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I have never stripped an fbh that I thought the gaskets could be reused and I have stripped both eberspacher and webasto models. Plus for the pittance the kit costs is it even worth not replacing them?

I do mention being careful with the gauze, but replacement burner assemblies are available should it become damaged.

Soot is an insulator, any buildup will reduce thermal efficiency. I still recommend cleaning the heat exchanger throughly.

These heaters are not maintenance free and like anything else require parts from time to time. The fan and burner assembly are considered service items and are supposed to be replaced as per the heaters service schedule. The how to shows you how to clean the burner assembly which would be replaced if you sent it to an authorised repairer.
What can I say, if spending lots of money on the unnecessary is your thing, please go ahead. Some of the guys on here are trying to keep their cars on the road as economically as possible.

Fully working FBH's can be had for £50 to £80, maybe due a service. A service can be done at no cost and in a couple of hours. I would guess the gasket kit at around £20, burner assembly £150.

Completely out of proportion to the value of the item. Maybe completely out of proportion to the value of the car itself even.

A thick coating of carbon on the heat exchanger would be an insullant, whereas a thin coat would not, it would be beneficial to heat transfer from flame to casting. Hence, best not make it too clean.

The only suspect gasket is perhaps the paper one, the paper one can easily be reproduced at home. The fixing bolts are steel, absolutely no reason to replace them, they are far tougher than the allow they screw into. They are not cylinder head bolts under any stress.

No doubt the manufacturer's service agent does replace these parts, but they charge several hundreds of pounds for a service. We are not bound by the same rules and we can afford to cut our cloth to suit our pockets.
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Old 30th January 2015, 06:45   #26
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But a service gasket set isn't unnecessary though is it? And if you cannot afford £15 for a service kit you should not be driving a car.

If you think proper maintenance is completely out of proportion to the value of the item or even the car, again you shouldn't be driving a car.

The fixing bolts are replaced as damage to the torx heads of the bolts by rust or incorrect tools are highly likely.

I understand that people are trying to run their cars economically, which is the very reason I make these how to's.

If I was suggesting everything was done by a garage or service agent I can see your point, but I cannot agree that your cutting corners approach is acceptable.
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Old 30th January 2015, 08:43   #27
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But a service gasket set isn't unnecessary though is it? And if you cannot afford £15 for a service kit you should not be driving a car.


If I was suggesting everything was done by a garage or service agent I can see your point, but I cannot agree that your cutting corners approach is acceptable.
On a none safety critical item and none essential item such as the FBH, it is perfectly acceptable to cut corners as you put it.

Using your idea to wade in and replace things, the cost can easily escalate to that of a brand new unit. Used FBH £80, gasket kit £15, replacement burner £150, PCB repair £50.

Chances of a used FBH not needing a PCB repair, almost nil. So your £80 rapidly becomes £130. To then start adding unnecessary costs on top makes it just plain silly.

I have serviced two, both are still fine 5 years later. Both required their PCB's attended to. Neither required new gaskets or new bolts, or combustion chambers. The bolts are not tight, shouldn't be rusted, so no reason why their heads should be damaged.

I'm not suggesting skimping on tyres, brake pads or anything else safety critical, only an ancillary part which is not even essential to the operation of the car and re-using perfectly serviceable parts, is something all of us can do, with the funds saved, being spent on more safety critical items. This is a luxury item which wasn't fitted to the later cars at all.

I think this is turning into something similar to your diesel versus petrol running cost thread, where you tried to make it appear the diesel was more expensive to run that the petrol, by exaggerating the costs, needs for parts and even left out the fuel costs. Of course it will be, if you bias it by replacing unnecessary parts as in this thread.

With that final parting shot, I will ignore any further posts in this thread.
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http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540

Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing.

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Old 30th January 2015, 09:02   #28
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For what its worth, I found it very useful guide and when I stripped mine down (without having read any "how to"), I also used the service kit rather than re-use old parts. Hopefully mine will now last the course.
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Old 30th January 2015, 09:08   #29
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I am not suggesting you replace the burner, perhaps you need to have another read Harry.

New units are £800.

Anybody fitting an fbh who cannot afford a £15 service kit should not do it. It uses fuel when it is working and they probably cannot afford that either.

There were no costs exaggerated in the other thread, other than for the petrol models.

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Old 30th January 2015, 10:21   #30
theridler
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So... to cheer you guys up a bit.. anyone want a free gasket kit?
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