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17th March 2024, 07:42 | #21 |
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Rover 75 saloon x2, Rover 75 Tourer x2, Rover 220 Coupe Turbo Join Date: Aug 2010
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Great work.
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Wanted - Indian bride. Cash waiting. (All sorted - bargain) First name and forum name: Ravinder Rover 75 2.0 CDT Connoisseur SE 116 (160 remap) Royal Blue (JFM) This vehicle was the 50,481st 75 to run off the production line, out of 112,381 This vehicle was the 2,238th 75 CDT Connoisseur SE to be made out of 3,775 This vehicle was the 5,002nd 75 in Royal Blue (code: JFM) to be made out of 14,420 Royal Blue 75s |
17th March 2024, 10:27 | #22 |
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Thank you for sharing your clutch replacement experience, a lot of good info in your posts and video which are very useful.
Tommy :-)
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17th March 2024, 10:29 | #23 | |
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For anyone else removing or putting the sub frame back, a tip I was given for both lowering and putting back. One at a time replace the sub frame bolts with long 12mm? studding and a nut and washer. May be just do 2 or 3 you dont need to do all 4. You can then lower the sub frame by undoing the nuts. When you put the sub frame back, it is easier to align to the studding and lift the sub frame by either tightening the nuts or manually lifting the sub frame then doing the nuts up to hold the sub frame in place. You can then remove the studding one at a time and replace with the correct bolts. macafee2 |
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17th March 2024, 19:18 | #24 |
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Thanks for the video showing the parts you removed and also the pictures and updates. They will be a big help when I decide to tackle mine.
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18th March 2024, 19:00 | #25 |
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Thanks for your replies chaps - I've got good news - the Rover is FIXED!
I went home last night, in a deflated mood as the new master cylinder wasn't working. My dad, not a man to be beaten easily, decided to take it apart and investigate what was wrong with it. He doesn't really know what he did, however the good news is that once reassembled, it started working correctly. Today I refitted it (not a job I ever want to do again!), topped it up and we bled the clutch. With that done, we could reassemble the rest of the car (basically just the battery box and fuel filter) and with that done we could test the clutch and were really relieved to find that it was working correctly and was much lighter in operation than it had ever been. Result! Not being one to skimp in life, the test drive was a 15 mile drive home from my partents' house and the Rover seems to drive better than it ever has. Weirdly, it seems to have a much smoother power uptake and just seems more eager than it was before. That could be because I'd been driving a Volvo for a couple of weeks - who knows. I'll update this thread with a lessons learned section in case it's any help for the next person doing this job. Cheers for now :-) |
19th March 2024, 10:05 | #26 | |
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Tommy :-)
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19th March 2024, 10:10 | #27 |
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The lessons learnt will be really useful as I see myself having to undertake this job in the near future - questions - did you use any special tools and how did you align the clutch plate before you put the g/box back?
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20th March 2024, 06:59 | #28 |
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There are 2 ways you can align the clutch plate. Buy or make up an alignment tool, or align the plate on the bench and hold it with 3 spots of Loctite. Once everything is assembled start the car in gear with the wheels still off the ground and the clutch depressed and the Loctite breaks and you are good to go.
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20th March 2024, 11:44 | #29 | |
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Torque wrench for doing most of the bolts back up. I used a clutch alignment tool. Have a good read of the Haynes manual before you start, it is pretty good for this job. Don't be frightened to come to the forum and ask questions. This is a big job to undertake. Good luck macafee2 |
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20th March 2024, 11:45 | #30 | |
This is my second home
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Well done you should be pleased with yourself. macafee2 |
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