Crash beam bolts - stainless?

Blink · 3rd October 2019, 10:48

The heads on my rear crash beam bolts are decidedly rusty. Any reason not to stick some stainless ones in there instead? If so, what size?

(8 bolts - 4 per side)

suzublu · 3rd October 2019, 11:29

I've changed as many bolts as I can with stainless, slam panel, headlights, engine etc so no reason I can see why not

KWIL · 3rd October 2019, 11:36

Make sure that the tensile strengths are adequate, S/S is not a direct substitute in many cases. Also beware, just because its called S/S does not mean it will not rust. In contact with rust, many will rust in due course.

Mike Trident · 3rd October 2019, 13:15

Stainless, actually means it will stain less. (Rust)

I use stainless wherever possible on my motorbike restorations.

It's usually stronger, but will snap rather than bend.

For the use you are looking at, you will have no problem at all.

All my front end is now attached with stainless bolts, nuts, washers etc etc.

Just a quick note:- stainless, when in contact with certain other metals will actually promote corrosion. E.g. alloy. Keep them separate with something like copperslip.

Teflon · 3rd October 2019, 13:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Trident

Stainless, actually means it will stain less. (Rust)………...

I had no idea of that, but now you say it, it makes perfect sense.

Thanks, I've learnt something new today

.

Cliff

RoverP480 · 3rd October 2019, 13:33

Personally I only will use stainless fixing for none critical areas as no crash testing or durability testing has been done on the vehicle with stainless ones.

clf · 3rd October 2019, 11:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by suzublu

I've changed as many bolts as I can with stainless, slam panel, headlights, engine etc so no reason I can see why not

It is part of the crash structure, and becomes.load bearing in the event of a crash.

In saying that, I dont know or understand tensile strengths of bolts, but have read of potential issues using them on some components. But I would verify replacement bolts or whatever variety were up to the same level of strength as the original (even if rusty)

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clf · 3rd October 2019, 17:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by kaiser

Perfectly fine to use. That part will never see any strain. Just impact, unless you drive over the curb and try and reverse

Don't over-complicate your lives with worries.

Quote:

Originally Posted by suzublu

My sentiments exactly

If you hit something that causes the bolts to break, then that would be the least of your worries

My thoughts were as the front and rear crash bars are part of the crash structure to dissipate forces down the chassis, any failure here could lead to an intrusion of the rear, the sides would be able to spread, rather than be retained.

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mbonwick · 3rd October 2019, 18:51

If what's currently on is an 8.8 (and I can't see any reason it would be anything more), then an A4-80 bolt is almost identical strength and a good replacement.

Not looked to see what the crash structure is made from, if it's steel then be careful that you don't shift the rust from the bolts to it...by using stainless into unpainted steel you'll set up a little electrochemical cell (a battery) and the steel will rust.

3rd October 2019, 10:48	#1
Blink Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2019 Location: Under the car Posts: 1,840 Thanks: 210 Thanked 244 Times in 221 Posts	Crash beam bolts - stainless? The heads on my rear crash beam bolts are decidedly rusty. Any reason not to stick some stainless ones in there instead? If so, what size? (8 bolts - 4 per side)

3rd October 2019, 13:15	#4
Mike Trident Posted a thing or two Rover 75 CDTi Saloon & Citroen C1 Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Oakenshaw, Near Bradford Posts: 1,622 Thanks: 385 Thanked 552 Times in 328 Posts	Stainless, actually means it will stain less. (Rust) I use stainless wherever possible on my motorbike restorations. It's usually stronger, but will snap rather than bend. For the use you are looking at, you will have no problem at all. All my front end is now attached with stainless bolts, nuts, washers etc etc. Just a quick note:- stainless, when in contact with certain other metals will actually promote corrosion. E.g. alloy. Keep them separate with something like copperslip. __________________ Rover 75 2.0 CDTi (131Ps) Conn SE Saloon. (Manual) 160 Remap, cruise control, electric window blind, temp gauge, Real walnut / ZT interior, FBH with GSM control. BORN Tuesday, 5th October 2004 @ 12:35:52 This vehicle was the 104,679th 75 to run off the production line, out of 112,381 This vehicle was the 3,318th 75 CDT Connoisseur SE (135) to be made out of 4,744 This vehicle was the 12,440th 75 in Starlight Silver (code: MBB) to be made out of 14,280 Starlight Silver 75s Last edited by Mike Trident; 3rd October 2019 at 13:20..

3rd October 2019, 11:29	#2
suzublu This is my second home rover 75 1.8 vvc club se wedgwood blue Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Seaton Carew Posts: 26,920 Thanks: 65 Thanked 7,142 Times in 4,642 Posts	I've changed as many bolts as I can with stainless, slam panel, headlights, engine etc so no reason I can see why not

3rd October 2019, 11:36	#3
KWIL Precise Rover 75 Tourer 2.5KV6 Connoisseur SE Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Fleet Posts: 2,954 Thanks: 630 Thanked 617 Times in 480 Posts	Make sure that the tensile strengths are adequate, S/S is not a direct substitute in many cases. Also beware, just because its called S/S does not mean it will not rust. In contact with rust, many will rust in due course.

3rd October 2019, 13:33	#6
RoverP480 Gets stuck in None at the moment Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Hereford Posts: 501 Thanks: 1 Thanked 165 Times in 146 Posts	Personally I only will use stainless fixing for none critical areas as no crash testing or durability testing has been done on the vehicle with stainless ones.

3rd October 2019, 18:51	#9
mbonwick Gets stuck in Connoisseur SE 1.8 Auto Saloon Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Kendal Posts: 633 Thanks: 129 Thanked 176 Times in 147 Posts	If what's currently on is an 8.8 (and I can't see any reason it would be anything more), then an A4-80 bolt is almost identical strength and a good replacement. Not looked to see what the crash structure is made from, if it's steel then be careful that you don't shift the rust from the bolts to it...by using stainless into unpainted steel you'll set up a little electrochemical cell (a battery) and the steel will rust.