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14th January 2020, 07:00 | #1 |
I really should get out more.......
Rover 75 Join Date: Sep 2013
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Crusty corroded brake pipes
Hi.
My old trusty 75 manged to get through another mot but i did get an advisory on the dreaded copper brake pipes being corroded. After shopping around for the best deal in getting them replaced I've found a garage (who i trust). They've qouted me £180 to get them all sorted out. From the wealth of experience here would agree this is a reasonable price. Many thanks for your advice appreciated, Johnny 😁
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14th January 2020, 07:42 | #2 |
This is my second home
Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009
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If your pipes are original they won't be copper - wouldn't replace them with copper either.
Ask your garage to use Kunifer pipe. |
14th January 2020, 08:44 | #3 |
Gets stuck in
MG ZT 2.0 cdti Join Date: Aug 2019
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I've just been quoted £200 to have mine done. That's for the lot to be changed.
But that's with me supplying new flexi brake pipes and the unions and copper pipe myself. Not sure if I'll get them to do it, or have a go myself.
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….And the latest thing to break is..... ### MG STANDS FOR "MY GREMLIN" !!! |
14th January 2020, 16:20 | #4 |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2019
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The tricky bit is getting through the fuel tank area - you have to drop the tank (or remove it) to run the pipes from the long fore & aft line to the rear caliper hoses.
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15th January 2020, 10:43 | #5 | |
Gets stuck in
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Quote:
Can they be re-routed?
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….And the latest thing to break is..... ### MG STANDS FOR "MY GREMLIN" !!! |
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15th January 2020, 11:13 | #6 |
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Alpina D3 Join Date: Sep 2014
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Do it properly, don't re-route the pipes. If the car is up on a ramp the garage will be able to undo the tank strap and then lower the tank. I've seen a few cars there they have been re-routed and it just doesn't look right underneath. If they are running the pipes then the 10~ mins to lower the tank will be the least time consuming part.
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15th January 2020, 11:45 | #7 |
Gets stuck in
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Fair enough.
I'm thinking about having a go myself, how bad a job is it to remove the fuel tank? My tank strap looks pretty cruddy as well. I think I read somewhere that stainless steel straps are available from somewhere?
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….And the latest thing to break is..... ### MG STANDS FOR "MY GREMLIN" !!! |
15th January 2020, 11:49 | #8 |
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Fair enough, it would be a lot easier if it up on a 2 post / 4 post ramp. I believe it is just the bolts that secure it and the clamp that holds the filler hose to the tank and it should have enough room to be lowered. You may have to lift the back seat and check the wiring isn't tight. I've not removed the tank myself but I saw the tank removed when I had the brake pipes done on my typhoon. Tank strap on that had been on there for around 160K and had been sat in a garden for a couple years and it didn't break and came off.
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15th January 2020, 12:38 | #9 |
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You don’t have to remove the fuel tank, undo the strap and rest the tank on the exhaust this allows enough room to get to the clips.
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Lest we forget..
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16th January 2020, 08:06 | #10 | |
Doesn't do things by halves
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Quote:
I agree with Trikey but for a different reason. The pipe run across the top of the fuel tank won't be corroded simply because it's never in contact with rainwater or road salt so there's no need to replace it. If you're vigilant with the surface rust on the short visible pipes in the front wheel arches and those running towards the rear wheels and treat them accordingly, you won't have a problem there either. That leaves the length under the floorpan on the driver's side which fails where the pipes are held in the plastic clips. This can be cut out and renewed from the unions above the front subframe to the point where the pipes rise to the top of the fuel tank. That's what I did many years ago and it's worked beautifully. It really isn't necessary to change the whole lot but I know that many owners will want to regardless. Simon
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