ZT 190+ comm number 468

[jonc3725]

Originally Posted by Sonic ZS

Good work as always Jon, you really are going to have to take this car back to Newton Abbot one day, to show the previous owner !

- have to say I'm a little disappointed that you've deviated from factory spec...

fair one mate. Apart from the Drivers side cut in the rear bumper for the V8 style bumper I have kept all the original bits that can be swapped out. I see the HEL hoses as an upgrade compared to the OEM rubber ones

[Rovering]

I have just read thru this whole thread and am amazed at your skills and attention to detail. You have given me some good pointers as to work I could do on my cars. I will be following this thread further, that much is certain. Well done.
Graeme

[jonc3725]

A couple of things done on the car. My aim is to complete the brakes, wheels and the arches and put it through the MOT. I can then work on the suspension over the winter

Firstly I finished the undertray





Next onto the brakes

a bit of a before and after






So for those wanting to change their calipers. Firstly I opened the master cylinder under the drivers side plastic panel and pushed back the piston all the way home. Then undid the sliders as if you were changing the pads
The caliper was then removed but I left it on its hose as I was going to go for direct swap of the hoses.





Next the caliper carrier is removed by undoing the two rear mounting bolts





This leave just the disk



Next is to undo the torx bolt holding the disc on. I use a pry and a couple of wheel nuts to hold the wheel whilst undoing the bolt



and the disc was removed



Next the mating surfaces are cleaned between the hub and the disc and a small amount of anti seizing was applied to the back of the disc.





Then the new disc was fitted and the torx bolt threads were covered with anti seizing and done up



The refurbed carrier was fitted with the new bolts and torqued to 100NM





Then the new pads and anti squeal shims were lightly smeared with anti seize and fitted to the caliper. Also the new hose is fitted to the caliper.





The caliper was then offered up to the carrier and fasten via the slider pins using a hex head socket and torquing down to 28NM



Now is the time to do the hydraulics.



The hard pipe is an 11mm nut but first I gave the area a really good clean and then using the correct crows feet spanner so the nut head is not rounded I undid the nut. To stop yourself losing a lot of fluid and making it easier to bleed I leave the brake reservoir cap on. If the system breathes through the filler cap also use some cling film under the cap.



once undone some brake fluid bleeds out but thus photo shows the mounting hole for the end fitting



and done up with the bridge



The finished article mounted





Both sides changed and the old 190 discs and calipers removed. Im not sure whether I want to sell these or refurb them and fit them to the wifes R75



The sharp eyed will notice the discs are not shiny new. They were only on my last car for a few hundred miles so were removed and stored when I broke it.

I will change the dust guards when I strip down the suspension and both fronts do need changing

Next up are the rears and all the arched to work on

[Dallas]

Superb job Jon...

[jonc3725]

Originally Posted by Rovering

I have just read thru this whole thread and am amazed at your skills and attention to detail. You have given me some good pointers as to work I could do on my cars. I will be following this thread further, that much is certain. Well done.
Graeme

Originally Posted by Dallas

Superb job Jon...

As usual thanks all for your kind words.

I am just to work my way through the ABS issue whilst I am working on the brakes . I also decided to change the rear backing plates as the hub needs to come off to change the handbrake shoes

[Jules]

Little tip Jon if you're replacing rear back plates........not that you need much help

You will find the rear cables well rusted into the back plate tubes.
Drimel a slot in the tubes and cables will slide out easily.

Cables will be fine. (never had to replace any in 10 years!!)

[jonc3725]

Originally Posted by Jules

Little tip Jon if you're replacing rear back plates........not that you need much help

You will find the rear cables well rusted into the back plate tubes.
Drimel a slot in the tubes and cables will slide out easily.

Cables will be fine. (never had to replace any in 10 years!!)

Good call cheers mate.

Yea im not fussed about the old back plates so that would make it easier

I was going to add additonal paint to the plates as well will that help longevity

[jonc3725]

A small update.

Firstly I have had a change of mind and decided not to go for the skirts and bumper spats. Looking at the car she looks better in original spec (in my mind) so the skirts have moved onto a new owner

Whilst trying to sort the ABS issue and re build the brakes I decided to underseal and rust proof the arches.

Rear right Arch

I removed the arch liner and was met with this. not unusual for cars of this age and thank goodness for galvanised bodies becasue this would have rotted out on cars manufactured before galvy bodies





Next up I removed the steel cable cover







I then cleaned and degreased the inner wheel arch and undersealed the whole area. All 4 arches will get the same treatment





Next up the tin cable cover was cleaned off





Whilst I was doing this bit I also removed the steel cross members from under the car and the fuel tank strap.







Once all cleaned back all the parts were treated to a rust converter and rubbed down ready for priming with red oxide primer.

Whilst in this corner I have stripped off the brake disc

Firstly slider pins are undone the same as the front brakes



and the caliper is removed leaving the carrier in place. I left the caliper attached to the brake hose for now



Next up I backed off the adjuster which you do through one of the wheel stud holes to release the handbrake pads.



Not the best photo but you can see the adjuster on the top of the assembly. Also looking at the handbrake shoes they look like the originals as there was not much material left.



Thats it for now because I have been doing other things

One other thing has been sorted. Using this way of diagnosis I found that the ABS issue was coming from the passenger side sensor connector which was a bad connection.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...37#post1765137

So no ABS warning lamp up on the dash anymore

[Jules]

Jon did you inspect centre rear backplates for swelling which rubs the reluctor rings off the back off the wheel bearings?

[jonc3725]

I have not got there yet mate. The next job is to get the hub off both sides and remove the old backplates. Cheers for the photo I will have a look when I have removed everything. New backplates are on the bench ready to be fitted I just want to give them an extra coat of paint first.

i will let you know what I find mate. Cheers for the heads up.