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2nd November 2013, 12:57 | #1 |
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mg zt+ Join Date: Mar 2013
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MOT Fail - lower suspension ball joint - advice req please
Hi, my zt failed its MOT on a few things I would like to try do the work myself to save pennys for the kids Christmas pressies!
Here's the list of problems ... 1. Offside front suspension has excessive play in a lower ball joint. Would this require a whole new arm fitting ? 2. Offside & nearside lower front suspension ball joint dust cover excessiveley damaged. Are these difficult to change ? And finally ...both front drop link dust covers are damaged. Ive purchased new drop links but are they difficult to replace, looks like 2 bolts and thats it ? Any help / advice to make the job easier would be appreciated! Thanks |
2nd November 2013, 13:01 | #2 |
This is my second home
2001 Connie SE CDT, 2002 2.0Petrol Laguna SportHatch Join Date: Jul 2011
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As you probably suspect the ball joint is part of the arm, some say the job is a pita others say it's easy, I did one and was in the middle You may end up doing both sides as mine were tight as..so you may damage the other trying to get it off for a new dust boot.
drop links are easy though. Plenty of threads on here on here regarding arm replacement.. have fun..
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Today the 23rd of April I will mostly be: Kids, bikes, dog, kids, bikes, dog...Seems to be a pattern forming here Car: Connie SE CDT Manual, Mods: O-Rings, Silicon intercooler hose, Stainless EGR Bypass, BMW PCV Mod, 160 Upgrade, DD Unit, Projector Headlights, Powerflex Bottom Mount, Remote Clutch reservoir, SS Compensator; Inline Stat To Come: cat gut (when replacing iffy section). Meteors after refurb.. |
2nd November 2013, 13:06 | #3 |
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Rover 75 2.5 auto Saloon Join Date: Jun 2007
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The offside failure item is the complete arm, usually if you have to change the arm you need the rear bush as well as it is unusual if it is in a good enough condition to be saved. An experienced mechanic can change one in around an hour, but a DIYer may well set aside 4 or 5 hours.
The drop links are well documented and are indeed 2 bolts, most effective way to remove the top bolt is to cut through the drop link just below the fixing bracket with an angle grinder. Tip: Cut the top thread of the new drop link down so when it is fitted none or very little of the thread protrudes through the nylock nut, makes refitting and subsequent further changes as lot easier. A new dust cover can be replaced without changing the other arm, just a matter of separating the bottom joint
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2nd November 2013, 13:39 | #4 | |
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Rover 75 Saloon & Saab 93 'vert Join Date: Mar 2013
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Regards Paul
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2nd November 2013, 13:49 | #5 |
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Rover 75 saloon Join Date: Oct 2013
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Drop links
hi all I've just came in from the cold and the rain after fitting both front drop links hardest job was undoin top bolt but *** it just grind it off and the rest is simple it only took mee 1 1/2hRs and half hour of that was begging a grinder off the niebour lol
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3rd November 2013, 21:41 | #6 |
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Rover 75 CDTi, 2x MG ZS180 Join Date: Jun 2011
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I agree with the above - drop links are a nasty job if you don't grind them off. I have a grinder here just because of this task!
Lower arms are quite a task, usually because of a seized lower pinch bolt (soak in penetrating oil and have a heat source when doing the job) and the rear bush is a bit fiddly to change. Finally, myself and other members have all suffered with cheap lower arms. I'd recommend some well-branded items, as the cheaper items really don't seem to last. Good luck.
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4th November 2013, 11:25 | #7 |
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75 CDT Conn SE Auto saloon Join Date: Jun 2010
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I'd add an 18mm FLEXIBLE head ratchet spanner comes in very useful for the rear bush.
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2nd November 2013, 13:07 | #8 | |||
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Rover 75 Conn CDT SE + intelligence pack Join Date: Jun 2013
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