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Old 12th September 2012, 12:42   #11
diplo-matt
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Quote:
Interesting.. Did you get the red one from ebay?
Yes, well worth it.
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Old 12th September 2012, 19:39   #12
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Just another thing to consider - my serious clutch judder was caused by the dual mass flywheel - here's hoping for your wallets sake it's not that!!! Mine took a hell of a wack
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Old 13th September 2012, 19:00   #13
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Mine started to show serious judder after clutch replacement (DMF was tested and still within spec). I also feared the worst and started doing my research. A pattern Mondeo mount only made the judder even more horrendous.

Decided a Powerflex modded mount from Ebay was my last chance before shelling out on a new DMF. The difference is like night and day. The car pulls smoothly away every time.

I have no doubt the flywheel will need replacing someday, but at least I have time to save the £££s now.
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Old 12th February 2013, 11:02   #14
Rob Bell
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A thread revival - got some clutch judder, the pedals has stuck to the floor a couple of times in stop/start traffic, and recently had to top up the master cylinder with fluid.

What do you all think? 99% chance I'll need a new clutch slave cylinder and clutch? I seriously hope that the dual mass flywheel isn't at fault: the judder is infrequent and not severe.

Any recommendations on a good place to get the change done that won't bankrupt me? Or is it time to cut and run and trade in our dear old MG in against something else?
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Old 12th February 2013, 17:57   #15
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I belive that most of the experts on here reckon that only one in a hundred need changing now!

I think the high fail rate (in the past) probably has more to do with fast fit clutch centers profit margins than reality!!

If they see you bring in a car worth circa £800-1200 they realise that your likely to not bother with doing it at all if the quotes to high so they are quoteing the costs more sensibly rather than lose the work!

Andy
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Old 12th February 2013, 19:49   #16
Billy1mate
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Yep lower mount, I changed mine it had started splitting no badly. Replaced with a Powerflex, absolute world of difference.
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Old 13th February 2013, 09:58   #17
Rob Bell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trophy Blue Tourer View Post
I belive that most of the experts on here reckon that only one in a hundred need changing now!

I think the high fail rate (in the past) probably has more to do with fast fit clutch centers profit margins than reality!!

If they see you bring in a car worth circa £800-1200 they realise that your likely to not bother with doing it at all if the quotes to high so they are quoteing the costs more sensibly rather than lose the work!

Andy
Hmm, interesting. The clutch was replaced at an MG Rover dealer in Cornwall a few years ago now. The new clutch has had a slight judder ever since. Actually a lower mount could be a reasonable explanation for this, as the judder is only really noticeable on pulling from standstill and most likely if there is a bit of steering lock applied...

Anyway, things have rather come to a head: last night got a phone call from my wife to inform me that the clutch pedal was on the floor and she couldn't select any gears. And the car was stranded in the middle of a busy junction. Terrific. AA were rubbish: despite her being a woman alone, and the car in a precarious position they couldn't come for over 2 hours I had to call the police to tell them about the potential hazard, but ultimately some kind passers by helped her push the car to a position of relative safety.

I got home before the AA had arrived, and was able to get partial clutch release by pumping the pedal - and was able to drive the car in one gear to the local backstreet garage and abandoned it there.

They're having a look for me today. Clutch has regained partial operation by this morning apparently, but is biting near the bottom of its travel. They're starting what I expect to be an expensive investigation into the problem this morning.

I still suspect the slave cylinder. Question I suppose is whether the clutch should be replaced again at the same time...

More soon!
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Old 13th February 2013, 13:11   #18
Synchromesh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonathan63 View Post
Out on saturday around town. There was some clutch judder in first. Not had this before.

PS; the lower engine mount is on the way out.
Try the easy/less expensive fix first - lower engine mount. If that doesn't fix it then you can turn your attention to the clutch. If you are checking the fluid level in the master cylinder you need to unscrew the cap and remove the rubber seal that dips into the fluid.

If it is low don't fill it to the top because replacing the rubber seal will displace some fluid and it will drip all over your carpet.

Last edited by Synchromesh; 13th February 2013 at 19:08..
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Old 13th February 2013, 13:30   #19
chris_h
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It is is simple investigation, take the lid off the master cylinder fluid reservoir, your finger in , if it goes to the bottom, your reservoir is empty and your slave cylinder has gone as long as there in hydraulic fluid around the master cylinder. Just to confirm that is the problem, bleed it and you will get a clutch back. You can drive on this for anything from a few miles to a few thousand miles depending on how bad the leak is. The master cylinder has a black rubber seal at the top which extends down as the reservoir gets emptied, this is sometimes referred to as the ' condom' for obvious reasons. If the reservoir is empty your finger will go right to the bottom.
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Old 13th February 2013, 13:51   #20
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In recent weeks my pedal bite is right on the floor & when it is warmed up it is a *** to get into gear, to the point of switch off ignition, engage 1st gear, start the car. I think this is one more item on my 'to do' list
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