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21st August 2016, 18:56 | #11 |
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I am trying to do a leakdown test. I first removed the gasoline pump relay and then removed the side cover to get access at the crankshaft pulley. I then removed the spark plug of cylinder 3. I found TDC using a piece of a metal cloth hanger and I found the compression stroke using a kids small balloon on the end of my leakdown tester hose.
The issue I have is the moment I put more then 30-35 psi the crankshaft pulley moves. I tried putting a breaker bar on the 22 mm bolt but my concern is if I put too much psi of air it would remove the crankshaft bolt pulley. Are my fears real ? Or should I brace that bolt better ? Friendly mecanics charge $80 an hour instead of the regular $120 elsewhere. I can afford a lot of tolls and times for this. Plus since its says freelander on the SUV , it means anything around the coolant is a headgasket job in their mind and they will not even look at it. |
21st August 2016, 20:05 | #12 |
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Why not leave car in gear and apply the brake?
If manual.
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21st August 2016, 20:08 | #13 |
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Have you applied pressure to the cooling system?
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21st August 2016, 20:33 | #14 |
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Hi.
From my experience try this. Like the chaps have said go for a drive, don't boot it drive sedately but go for 20 miles or so. Go home and touch nothing, leave overnight and remove the expansion cap and listen........... there should be no hiss when you remove it. Second thing to try is to start the engine from cold with the cap off, let it idle for 10 seconds then rev it to the red line, if coolant is ejected then buy a head gasket set, a leaking gasket will pressurise the system with this treatment.
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21st August 2016, 22:57 | #15 |
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My freelander is automatic. I found out that I was doing a leak down test not quite at TDC thus why the crankshaft was moving.
The leakdown tester with 90ish psi of air applied did not show any bubbles in the coolant expansion tank. See pictures: Compressor air gauge Leakdown tester air gauge Another test I ran is I tested the cooling system at 22 psi, no leaks. |
21st August 2016, 22:58 | #16 | |
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Quote:
I will run this test next, from cold and report. |
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21st August 2016, 23:06 | #17 |
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Could the problem be a blocked oil cooler?
Normally sits down right-side front of engine, water passes through it. The early cylinder coolers dont block, but the later square oblong coolers do, it has two pipes going into it. |
22nd August 2016, 01:27 | #18 | |
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Quote:
Hi Dallas. I am all for ideas! How do you see a blocked oil cooler increasing the coolant system pressure and contributing to the coolant loss ? |
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14th September 2016, 23:19 | #19 |
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While is was draining the oil for doing my timing belts (no time to do the heads yet) there is coolant in it. There is no oil in the coolant piping system but coolant in the oil I just drained.
I am thinking this confirms that the head gasket is bad. |
15th September 2016, 05:16 | #20 |
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This proves only one thing, namely that you have oil in the water. It does not say where it comes from!
all your tests regarding the headgasket on the compression side seem to be fine, from what I can remember. I don't know if you have an oil cooler in the Freelander? but in the Rover 75, that can allow the water and oil to cross. It could well come from a head gasket, but then again, it might not. I suggest you contact freelanderspecialists.com in the UK to give you specific advice on your car. The e-mail address is sueATreelanderspecialist.come You know what to do with the AT? Oh, good luck, and keep us posted!
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