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Old 14th December 2015, 15:13   #1
bikerdude666
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Default Where to get a brake light switch?

Anyone got any ideas? I've had a look at rimmers, but I can't see it listed, maybe I'm just being blind? Or there are some on ebay, but at £30, was hoping it wouldn't be as much as that for a little switch. Is it the same as LandRover or some other make that might be available cheaper?

I've tried the previous suggestions of 'resetting' the switch, but the brake lights are still stuck on, so I assume its the switch. Typical as this is the 1 week in 3 that I go to work for 9 and finish and at 5 so will be in all the traffic with no one knowing when I'm braking!

Access looks like it'll be interesting to get in there to change the switch as well!
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Old 14th December 2015, 15:35   #2
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Have a read through this thread;

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=134757

In sure there is a bit about the switch being interchangeable with other manufacturers.
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Old 14th December 2015, 15:40   #3
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found it . . .

"if it has not already been covered brake / stop light switch XKB000022

seems to be the same on all these (needs verifying) "


BMW 1 (E81, E87)
BMW 1 (E87)
BMW 1 Convertible (E88)
BMW 1 Coupe (E82)
BMW 3 (E46)
BMW 3 (E90)
BMW 3 Compact (E46)
BMW 3 Convertible (E46)
BMW 3 Convertible (E93)
BMW 3 Coupe (E46)
BMW 3 Coupe (E92)
BMW 3 Touring (E46)
BMW 3 Touring (E91)
BMW 5 (E39)
BMW 5 (E60)
BMW 5 Touring (E39)
BMW 5 Touring (E61)
BMW 6 (E63)
BMW 6 Convertible (E64)
BMW 7 (E38)
BMW 7 (E65, E66)
BMW 7 (F01, F02, F03, F04)
BMW X1 (E84)
BMW X3 (E83)
BMW X5 (E53)
BMW X5 (E70)
BMW X6 (E71, E72)
BMW Z4 (E85)
BMW Z4 (E89)
BMW Z4 Coupe (E86)
BMW Z8 (E52)
Land Rover Freelander (LN)
Land Rover Freelander 2 (FA_)
Land Rover Freelander Soft Top
Land Rover Range Rover III (LM)
Land Rover Range Rover Sport (LS)
Mercedes C-Class (W204)
Mercedes C-Class T-Model (S204)
Mercedes E-Class (W212)
Mercedes E-Class Convertible (A207)
Mercedes E-Class Coupe (C207)
Mercedes E-Class T-Model (S212)
Mercedes GLK-Class (X204)
Mercedes S-Class (W221)
Mercedes S-Class Coupe (C216)
Mercedes SLS AMG (C197)
MG MG ZT
MG MG ZT- T
Mini Mini (R50, R53)
Mini Mini (R56)
Mini Mini Clubman (R55)
Mini Mini Convertible (R52)
Mini Mini Convertible (R57)
Rover 75 (RJ)
Rover 75 Tourer (RJ)
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Old 14th December 2015, 15:54   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerdude666 View Post
Anyone got any ideas? I've had a look at rimmers, but I can't see it listed, maybe I'm just being blind? Or there are some on ebay, but at £30, was hoping it wouldn't be as much as that for a little switch. Is it the same as LandRover or some other make that might be available cheaper?

I've tried the previous suggestions of 'resetting' the switch, but the brake lights are still stuck on, so I assume its the switch. Typical as this is the 1 week in 3 that I go to work for 9 and finish and at 5 so will be in all the traffic with no one knowing when I'm braking!

Access looks like it'll be interesting to get in there to change the switch as well!
Before you change the switch, check fuse 13 passenger compartment fusebox isn't blown

Brian
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Old 14th December 2015, 20:15   #5
bikerdude666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yella Fella View Post
found it . . .

"if it has not already been covered brake / stop light switch XKB000022

seems to be the same on all these (needs verifying) "


BMW 1 (E81, E87)
BMW 1 (E87)
BMW 1 Convertible (E88)
BMW 1 Coupe (E82)
BMW 3 (E46)
BMW 3 (E90)
BMW 3 Compact (E46)
BMW 3 Convertible (E46)
BMW 3 Convertible (E93)
BMW 3 Coupe (E46)
BMW 3 Coupe (E92)
BMW 3 Touring (E46)
BMW 3 Touring (E91)
BMW 5 (E39)
BMW 5 (E60)
BMW 5 Touring (E39)
BMW 5 Touring (E61)
BMW 6 (E63)
BMW 6 Convertible (E64)
BMW 7 (E38)
BMW 7 (E65, E66)
BMW 7 (F01, F02, F03, F04)
BMW X1 (E84)
BMW X3 (E83)
BMW X5 (E53)
BMW X5 (E70)
BMW X6 (E71, E72)
BMW Z4 (E85)
BMW Z4 (E89)
BMW Z4 Coupe (E86)
BMW Z8 (E52)
Land Rover Freelander (LN)
Land Rover Freelander 2 (FA_)
Land Rover Freelander Soft Top
Land Rover Range Rover III (LM)
Land Rover Range Rover Sport (LS)
Mercedes C-Class (W204)
Mercedes C-Class T-Model (S204)
Mercedes E-Class (W212)
Mercedes E-Class Convertible (A207)
Mercedes E-Class Coupe (C207)
Mercedes E-Class T-Model (S212)
Mercedes GLK-Class (X204)
Mercedes S-Class (W221)
Mercedes S-Class Coupe (C216)
Mercedes SLS AMG (C197)
MG MG ZT
MG MG ZT- T
Mini Mini (R50, R53)
Mini Mini (R56)
Mini Mini Clubman (R55)
Mini Mini Convertible (R52)
Mini Mini Convertible (R57)
Rover 75 (RJ)
Rover 75 Tourer (RJ)

Thanks, found a LR 1 for about £11 posted so will order 1 of those.

Quote:
Originally Posted by marinabrian View Post
Before you change the switch, check fuse 13 passenger compartment fusebox isn't blown

Brian
I haven't checked, but am guessing it won't be that as it's an intermittent fault. I went out earlier and cleaned the car, changed the air filter and PCV, thought I'd have a quick look at the lights and they were stuck on. When I turned the ignition off and back on they were off until I pressed the pedal again when they stuck on again. Same again with starting the engine. They were stuck on, so I went back inside as I had to go and get cleaned up to go and get my son. When I went back out 15 mins later, I got in, started it, and reversed out the space, put the brakes on, and the lights came on, released the brakes and drove away and the lights were off, and then worked fine between the house and school, school and McD's, McD's and the childminder, and the childminders to home! Will probably be ok for a few days again now, and then will stick on for 10 miles, usually about 3 miles into a journey, and then work properly again.
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Old 14th December 2015, 20:23   #6
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These can be a pain. What i did when i put a new switch on, was to lengthen the wires of the plug connector that goes to the back of the switch.

That way you can get the switch out but take the plug connector off a lot easier and not have to worry about pulling the wire totally out of the plug like i once did
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Old 14th December 2015, 22:28   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lotuslc View Post
These can be a pain. What i did when i put a new switch on, was to lengthen the wires of the plug connector that goes to the back of the switch.

That way you can get the switch out but take the plug connector off a lot easier and not have to worry about pulling the wire totally out of the plug like i once did
Thanks, can you remember how it actually comes off? Looks very tight, awkward and can't see anything. Need to hold a torch, hold the pedal and use a 3rd hand to remove the switch somehow? Plus everything seems to be caked in a horrible silvery/grey grease.
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Old 14th December 2015, 22:31   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerdude666 View Post
Thanks, can you remember how it actually comes off? Looks very tight, awkward and can't see anything. Need to hold a torch, hold the pedal and use a 3rd hand to remove the switch somehow? Plus everything seems to be caked in a horrible silvery/grey grease.

It is awkward, note which way the wires are facing, use that as a guide for refitting, just pull on the switch, it comes out easily, note that some of the aftermarket switches are a different size, this means you have to fit the plastic housing too (And that is a right pain to do)
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Old 14th December 2015, 22:48   #9
bikerdude666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trikey View Post
It is awkward, note which way the wires are facing, use that as a guide for refitting, just pull on the switch, it comes out easily, note that some of the aftermarket switches are a different size, this means you have to fit the plastic housing too (And that is a right pain to do)
Thanks, something to look forward to during the Christmas break! Maybe time to get my son trained up to crawl into the footwell… I've found a site that sells the LR switch, it lists an OEM quality part, another aftermarket part, or a genuine LR branded part, hopefully the genuine LR would be the same, and not need the housing fitting separately.
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Old 14th December 2015, 23:09   #10
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Have just changes my switch, unfortunately it didn't cure my problem! Anyway, I purchased my switch from Rimmers, it did not need any mods...
Here are some hints which I hope help when you do the job..
Access to the back of the brake pedal is very tight, remove the facia panel under the steering wheel, the under panel, and also the headlight switch module.
Most of the work is done by feel, best access for me was via the headlight switch hole.
Try to use a work lamp, torches are a pain!
I used a long screwdriver to push the contact switch out of its holder, then used the screwdriver to release the switch holder from the mounting hole.
The switch holder was removed from behind the holder by feel, then I pushed the contact, still attached to its wire through towards the centre consol.
From under the dash, you can pull the contact / cable down just enough to hold it and separate the connector, fit the new contact.
Before feeding back over the top, fit the new holder. Note the position of the locating lug. I couldn't hold the switch holder and turn it into the hole with my fingers, so I pushed the blade of a screwdriver through the mounting hole from the front, and used this to guide the switch holder into place... it went in easily, from there, feed the contact back behind the brake pedal. Provided you made a mental note of which way the switch fits into the holder, you can use the connector position to guide you as you feel the switch back into the holder and push it into place.
Hope this helps!
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