Go Back   The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums > The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums > Technical Help Forum
Register FAQ Image Gallery Members List Calendar
Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 30th September 2011, 20:55   #31
spyder
This is my second home
 
75 CDT Auto Tourer , Rover 45 , Astra, Zaffira, Chev Captiva

Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Wilts
Posts: 3,342
Thanks: 203
Thanked 436 Times in 360 Posts
Default

Its Friday, but try this :-

Pressure Ratio
  • Pressure Ratio ( ) is defined as the Absolute outlet pressure divided by the Absolute inlet pressure.





    Where:
    • = Pressure Ratio
    • P2c = Compressor
    • Discharge Pressure
    • P1c = Compressor Inlet Pressure
  • It is important to use units of Absolute Pressure for both P1c and P2c. Remember that Absolute Pressure at sea level is 14.7 psia (in units of psia, the a refers to “absolute”). This is referred to as standard atmospheric pressure at standard conditions.
  • Gauge Pressure (in units of psig, the g refers to “gauge”) measures the pressure above atmospheric, so a gauge pressure reading at atmospheric conditions will read zero. Boost gauges measure the manifold pressure relative to atmospheric pressure, and thus are measuring Gauge Pressure. This is important when determining P2c. For example, a reading of 12 psig on a boost gauge means that the air pressure in the manifold is 12 psi above atmospheric pressure. For a day at standard atmospheric conditions,


    12 psig + 14.7 psia = 26.7 psi absolute pressure in the manifold
  • The pressure ratio at this condition can now be calculated:



    26.7 psia / 14.7 psia = 1.82
  • However, this assumes there is no adverse impact of the air filter assembly at the compressor inlet.
  • In determining pressure ratio, the absolute pressure at the compressor inlet (P2c) is often LESS than the ambient pressure, especially at high load. Why is this? Any restriction (caused by the air filter or restrictive ducting) will result in a “depression,” or pressure loss, upstream of the compressor that needs to be accounted for when determining pressure ratio. This depression can be 1 psig or more on some intake systems. In this case P1c on a standard day is:



    14.7psia – 1 psig = 13.7 psia at compressor inlet
  • Taking into account the 1 psig intake depression, the pressure ratio is now:



    (12 psig + 14.7 psia) / 13.7 psia = 1.95.
  • That’s great, but what if you’re not at sea level? In this case, simply substitute the actual atmospheric pressure in place of the 14.7 psi in the equations above to give a more accurate calculation. At higher elevations, this can have a significant effect on pressure ratio.
  • For example, at Denver’s 5000 feet elevation, the atmospheric pressure is typically around 12.4 psia. In this case, the pressure ratio calculation, taking into account the intake depression, is:


    (12 psig + 12.4 psia) / (12.4 psia – 1 psig) = 2.14
    Compared to the 1.82 pressure ratio calculated originally, this is a big difference.


  • As you can see in the above examples, pressure ratio depends on a lot more than just boost.



  • ◊ Mass Flow Rate
    • Mass Flow Rate is the mass of air flowing through a compressor (and engine!) over a given period of time and is commonly expressed as lb/min (pounds per minute). Mass flow can be physically measured, but in many cases it is sufficient to estimate the mass flow for choosing the proper turbo.
    • Many people use Volumetric Flow Rate (expressed in cubic feet per minute, CFM or ft3/min) instead of mass flow rate. Volumetric flow rate can be converted to mass flow by multiplying by the air density. Air density at sea level is 0.076lb/ft3
    • What is my mass flow rate? As a very general rule, turbocharged gasoline engines will generate 9.5-10.5 horsepower (as measured at the flywheel) for each lb/min of airflow. So, an engine with a target peak horsepower of 400 Hp will require 36-44 lb/min of airflow to achieve that target. This is just a rough first approximation to help narrow the turbo selection options.
__________________
Chrome skull caps, EGR cleaned (original housing), Mondeo lower mounting, 12V outlets in the armrest and tourer boot, cat fixed, working FBH, Lidl plenum covers, DD with reverse camera.New speakesr/Tweeters with MDF rings. wood dash, Memory leather seats, wooden finished steering and handbrake, Xenon headlights.
spyder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2nd October 2011, 19:15   #32
COLVERT
This is my second home
 
R75 Saloon.

Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: France/or Devon.
Posts: 14,003
Thanks: 3,851
Thanked 2,167 Times in 1,816 Posts
Default

When you compare the lower pressure ratio to the higher, is the lower figure better ??

If so, would a higher than atmospheric pressure on the intake side also improve the ratio ?? ( ie. above 14.7 psi at sea level. )
COLVERT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2nd October 2011, 19:32   #33
spyder
This is my second home
 
75 CDT Auto Tourer , Rover 45 , Astra, Zaffira, Chev Captiva

Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Wilts
Posts: 3,342
Thanks: 203
Thanked 436 Times in 360 Posts
Default

The lower the pressure ratio the better. But this would take sensors in the position that your MAF is in , in order to measure the loss, IE compared to psia(14.7). It is basically this ratio that weare trying to improve in a perfect world. The absolute manifold pressure will then start to change with a bigger or different Turbo.
THe BMW VV turbo increases this, but I have no idea what sensors or data they use for this.
Of course all these readings, after the turbo can be changed at higher and full boost by controlling the waste gate. As with a lot of performance cars, the EVO Lancia (4WD) use electronically controlled boost system, operated from the cockpit. The spring mod on our cars help. Not that I would try it .

In answer to your question, yes increasing the 14.7 psia would help, and there-in lies the problem. Anyone out there with a spare wind tunnel ?
__________________
Chrome skull caps, EGR cleaned (original housing), Mondeo lower mounting, 12V outlets in the armrest and tourer boot, cat fixed, working FBH, Lidl plenum covers, DD with reverse camera.New speakesr/Tweeters with MDF rings. wood dash, Memory leather seats, wooden finished steering and handbrake, Xenon headlights.
spyder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 5th October 2011, 17:09   #34
Jakg
This is my second home
 
N/A

Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 6,867
Thanks: 0
Thanked 397 Times in 302 Posts
Default

Been wanting to do this for ages, finally got round to it.

What I had before (air intake mod as done by the previous owner):





With the FBH in the way it was a massive pain to get in... but I did eventually. Does pinch the EGR pipe a little... Should of gone for a little smaller pipe I think.



Had to cut the engine cover a bit (although I did it a lot more than I needed to, ooops)



You'd never even be able to spot it...





The pipe currently sits behind the headlight.

Throttle response seems a little better (although could be a placebo). Doesn't sound any different.
Jakg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 5th October 2011, 17:14   #35
Departed 32016
This is my second home
 
Departed 32016's Avatar
 
Rover 75

Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 5,190
Thanks: 101
Thanked 257 Times in 145 Posts
Default

I too am going to do this mod, I have just got the pipe but i will put it next to the fog light with a bit of mesh around it.
Departed 32016 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 5th October 2011, 22:53   #36
mark_bonsai
I really should get out more.......
 
Rover 75 CDT Saloon

Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Lancaster
Posts: 2,219
Thanks: 24
Thanked 39 Times in 39 Posts
Default

You need to connect the other end of the pipe to one of the venturis (shown below) that are normally on the end of the shannon tube on a V6, etc. This bolts in place inside the passenger side front wing at the front. A good area for pressure and well out of the way of water.

__________________
Re-mapped. EGR bypass. De-catted. 18" Apex's. ZT190 brakes & suspension. Xenon projectors. Powerfold bullets. Electric rear sun blind. Auto dipping rear view mirror. Wood and leather steering wheel. Wood handbrake handle. Full leather sports seats. Harman Kardon speakers & sub. Navall 2 double din through 500w Kenwood amp. Fully chromed front grill.
mark_bonsai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 6th October 2011, 16:57   #37
Roverron
Gets stuck in
 
Rover

Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Tarbert
Posts: 980
Thanks: 0
Thanked 19 Times in 9 Posts
Default MK2 intake mod.

The Mk2 intake mod is easy to do for those who don't want to start running ducting and one of the reasons for it was to avoid the engine ingesting spray.
Even with the factory deflector modification fitted this still happens due to the depression at the opening.

Since air still flows into the engine compartment through the original aperture under the slam panel, its only when stationary or moving very slowly that warmer air will be drawn in, which hardly matters at these speeds.

Ducting may be better, though where's the proof? But the intake must be located where spray cannot be sucked in.

Ron
__________________
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Roverron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 6th October 2011, 16:58   #38
Roverron
Gets stuck in
 
Rover

Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Tarbert
Posts: 980
Thanks: 0
Thanked 19 Times in 9 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kieranswood View Post
I too am going to do this mod, I have just got the pipe but i will put it next to the fog light with a bit of mesh around it.
Too low. What happens if you go through a flood?
Needs to be at headlight height or behind them as others have done.
Ron
__________________
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Roverron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 6th October 2011, 18:33   #39
spyder
This is my second home
 
75 CDT Auto Tourer , Rover 45 , Astra, Zaffira, Chev Captiva

Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Wilts
Posts: 3,342
Thanks: 203
Thanked 436 Times in 360 Posts
Default

Just a question after watching this post. Has anyone worked out the difference in area between the standard inlet been opened and modified, and the inlet of this mod. Surley the bigger the inlet the more the volume will be. Also will the friction in the length of this mod not hinder the volume of air getting into the filter ?

Just asking.

Craig
__________________
Chrome skull caps, EGR cleaned (original housing), Mondeo lower mounting, 12V outlets in the armrest and tourer boot, cat fixed, working FBH, Lidl plenum covers, DD with reverse camera.New speakesr/Tweeters with MDF rings. wood dash, Memory leather seats, wooden finished steering and handbrake, Xenon headlights.
spyder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 6th October 2011, 19:54   #40
HarryM1BYT
This is my second home
 
HarryM1BYT's Avatar
 
75 Contemporary SE Mk II 2004 Man. Sal. CDTi 135ps, FBH on red diesel, WinCE6 DD

Join Date: May 2010
Location: Leeds
Posts: 17,273
Thanks: 2,160
Thanked 2,061 Times in 1,586 Posts
Default

Flow of a fluid (air) is a function of the pressure / the size of the pipe /its length and the smoothness of the pipes bore bends etc..

How you work it out, I don't have a clue
__________________
Harry

How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses...

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540

Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing.

I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money.
HarryM1BYT is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 20:12.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright © 2006-2023, The Rover 75 & MG ZT Owners Club Ltd