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Old 15th October 2019, 20:47   #11
Salmon
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Thanks
I will ask the mechanic to check first if it isn’t just the Master Cylinder and change it with the clutch if it isn’t.
I’m really looking for the list of best parts now so I can buy them ASAP and supply the mechanic. I’m temporarily insured on another car for 30 days so I need to get it all in process quickly as I use the Rover for work Pete’s post was very useful so I’m narrowing down the options.
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Old 16th October 2019, 08:43   #12
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LUK-DUAL-...sAAOxyQfJTfFp9


£475 for the lot This LUK kit looks like a bargain.

I cant see if its a (Repset Pro) kit though.


Otherwise it look like £170 for the Repset pro kit
and about £350 for the DMF


Plus Master Cylinder esti;£70.00 yet to work out which one to buy?


& the sleeve for about £35.00.



plus peripherals. its getting very pricey plus labour



That about £600 plus in parts alone.
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Old 16th October 2019, 09:15   #13
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Neil

You probably won't need a DMF - they rarely go out of spec - the mechanic should check the movement on the DMF when doing the clutch to see it is within specified limits. Regarding the master cylinder, I would avoid the Tazu metal master cylinder on diesels - the copper pipework is a nightmare and transmits engine noise into the cabin of the car. LUK masters have been known to fail. I think DMGRS sell original Rover style clutch masters made by AP - they are for LHD cars, but you can swap the pipework over to give you an OEM-spec master for RHD cars.

Cheers

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Last edited by EastPete; 16th October 2019 at 09:15.. Reason: typo
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Old 16th October 2019, 16:20   #14
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Hi Neil,
May be worth getting the garage to price parts too-- that way if there are problems they have the responsibility to put it right. - they may not be all that different price wise.
Other option is to look at Freelander clutches as I believe they are the same, except as little bit of pipe angling on the slave (I fitted a Landover kit to my car)



https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVE...580?nav=SEARCH
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Old 16th October 2019, 18:31   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastPete View Post
Neil

You probably won't need a DMF - they rarely go out of spec - the mechanic should check the movement on the DMF when doing the clutch to see it is within specified limits. Regarding the master cylinder, I would avoid the Tazu metal master cylinder on diesels - the copper pipework is a nightmare and transmits engine noise into the cabin of the car. LUK masters have been known to fail. I think DMGRS sell original Rover style clutch masters made by AP - they are for LHD cars, but you can swap the pipework over to give you an OEM-spec master for RHD cars.

Cheers

Pete
HI, Pete.

You seem to know a bit about clutches and the DMF.

As I drive off I can feel a movement in the transmission take up.---It feels like I would expect from a bottom engine mount that has failed.

I bought one but when I got under the car the existing mount was in perfect condition. I took it off to have a close look at it and there was no damage at all.

Now to the DMF. I presume that as they fail it is the springs that collapse. I was wondering if that was the cause of faint but definite low thump I feel as I pull away. The movement of the slack being taken up in the failed DMF.

I have tried rocking the engine hard in gear by pushing it backwards and forwards and can get no sign of movement of the engine under the bonnet. The other engine mounts seem firm.

As I've not actually seen A DMF it would be very nice to get some info from somebody who has seen one.

Thanks in advance if you can help me.
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Old 16th October 2019, 18:58   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COLVERT View Post
HI, Pete.

You seem to know a bit about clutches and the DMF.

As I drive off I can feel a movement in the transmission take up.---It feels like I would expect from a bottom engine mount that has failed.

I bought one but when I got under the car the existing mount was in perfect condition. I took it off to have a close look at it and there was no damage at all.

Now to the DMF. I presume that as they fail it is the springs that collapse. I was wondering if that was the cause of faint but definite low thump I feel as I pull away. The movement of the slack being taken up in the failed DMF.

I have tried rocking the engine hard in gear by pushing it backwards and forwards and can get no sign of movement of the engine under the bonnet. The other engine mounts seem firm.

As I've not actually seen A DMF it would be very nice to get some info from somebody who has seen one.

Thanks in advance if you can help me.
Jon

I am not sure I am a real expert on DMFs/clutches, but I have learn a lot from the issues I had with my car. Attached is a picture of a DMF. If you notice, at about 10 o'clock, there are two white paint marks on the inner and outer masses - if you try to rotate the two masses against each other, there should not be more than 25mm separation of the marks. This is the basic test for whether the DMF is within spec or not. There are other more sophisticated ways of checking radial and lateral movement, but it is rare (apparently) for 75s to need a new DMF unless a massive mileage has been covered.

Have you tried actually fitting the new lower mount to see if that cures the 'thump' ?. You can get wear in the upper right mount (hydramount), which is difficult to detect without actually removing the mount and checking it - the fluid in it can leak out over time. I have never experienced a failed DMF, but I am told they cause an almighty racket if they do start to go - knocking/rattling noises on take off etc.

Hope this helps

Pete
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File Type: jpg Rover gearbox 007.jpg (61.4 KB, 12 views)
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Old 16th October 2019, 20:29   #17
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Smile Thanks everyone

Thanks to everyone for sharing their knowledge.
I have a clear picture now of the way forward from not knowing anything and frankly panicking I know who's going to do the job and with which parts.


This community is fantastic.
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Old 16th October 2019, 20:51   #18
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good luck.


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Old 16th October 2019, 23:10   #19
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It can be hard to determine what is causing thump on take-off, but it could also be due to oil getting onto the clutch from the rear oilseal. When mine started to thump, I changed the lower, "teardrop mount", which was, on examination, split - chicken or egg? New mount, it still thumped on take off, but smooth as silk once engaged. Some say DMF failure produces vibration fully engaged - I don't know, I've not experienced DMF failure - mine was a delaminated friction plate - rivets gone. I checked the DMF as above, and it was fine - new clutch and slave, all cleaned and lubed as above - so far so good.
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Old 17th October 2019, 12:03   #20
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A split in a lower mount's large bush is not always visible until a twisting force is applied to it using a stout screwdriver or something similar through the bolt hole.
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