Handbrake woes any suggestions

ted the bear · 11th April 2011, 17:18

spent saturday renewing the handbrake shoes, spent ages trying to adjust up but its worse than ever. May have an actuator backwards as I fitted them both according to te picture in the haynes book but have heard one goes opposite way to other, anybody confirm? Anybody got a clear picture of how cable fits to actuator?

Also the inside of the drums is scaby, disks are probably going to want renewing next year anyway, would I benefit from doing it now?

Zeb · 11th April 2011, 17:20

Fitted new shoes to mine today for the MOT...only just passed with 17% efficiency...so, either the cables are stretched or the cleaning up of the horrible mess inside the drum was not sufficient...I have your dilemma..methinks new disks and probably new cables....and then the handbrake might just about be 'ok'...

damienp · 11th April 2011, 17:41

Scaby drums would give you uneven grip, so i would replace the discs for what they cost. I wouldn't want to ruin my new shoes

Zeb · 11th April 2011, 18:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by damienp

Scaby drums would give you uneven grip, so i would replace the discs for what they cost. I wouldn't want to ruin my new shoes

Yes, I think you are correct...more outlay...hey-ho

ted the bear · 11th April 2011, 20:58

ah well, thats back to brake shop and back on the axle stands then. more cash

but at least they will be done for next year.

COLVERT · 11th April 2011, 21:13

And don't forget to apply the handbrake at slow speed at least once a month to stop the drums from rusting up.
A hundred yards would do it.

ted the bear · 13th April 2011, 21:42

new discs new pads £60, Mintex kit.

shoes adjusted to solid then backed to just touching. adjusted the nut under handbrake lever at 25mm it doesn't feel to be connected to anything at 30 mm I have a handbrake on 6 clicks. Other than a stretched cable no idea what else could be wrong

HarryM1BYT · 13th April 2011, 22:09

Start by setting it to 25mm, face of nut to end of thread. Pull the lever up two clicks, then adjust each shoe star adjuster up to tight. Handbrake should then be full on at 3 clicks. The lower the handbrake lever is when on full, the more effective it is, because your arm has much more leverage at the low angles.

As said elseware, use the handbrake regularly to keep it free of rust build up and keep it working efficiently. I use it at every stop.

James.uk · 13th April 2011, 23:32

Keith at Ellesmere did quite a comprehensive study on this, see if you can find the thread..

I seem to recall that the standard cables are a bit long to start with, and that you may need to make a new adjuster out of an M6 bolt for the rear wheels... But --- I may be wrong ------

...

MangoMan · 14th April 2011, 06:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by COLVERT

And don't forget to apply the handbrake at slow speed at least once a month to stop the drums from rusting up.
A hundred yards would do it.

Good tip, thanks.

11th April 2011, 17:18	#1
ted the bear Regular poster MG ZT 135 CDTI Join Date: May 2009 Location: Sheffield Posts: 43 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post	Handbrake woes any suggestions spent saturday renewing the handbrake shoes, spent ages trying to adjust up but its worse than ever. May have an actuator backwards as I fitted them both according to te picture in the haynes book but have heard one goes opposite way to other, anybody confirm? Anybody got a clear picture of how cable fits to actuator? Also the inside of the drums is scaby, disks are probably going to want renewing next year anyway, would I benefit from doing it now?

13th April 2011, 22:09	#8
HarryM1BYT This is my second home 75 Contemporary SE Mk II 2004 Man. Sal. CDTi 135ps, FBH on red diesel, WinCE6 DD Join Date: May 2010 Location: Leeds Posts: 17,273 Thanks: 2,160 Thanked 2,061 Times in 1,586 Posts	Start by setting it to 25mm, face of nut to end of thread. Pull the lever up two clicks, then adjust each shoe star adjuster up to tight. Handbrake should then be full on at 3 clicks. The lower the handbrake lever is when on full, the more effective it is, because your arm has much more leverage at the low angles. As said elseware, use the handbrake regularly to keep it free of rust build up and keep it working efficiently. I use it at every stop. __________________ Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money.

11th April 2011, 17:20	#2
Zeb Banned MGZT V8 & ZTT 190+LPG Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 8,089 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Fitted new shoes to mine today for the MOT...only just passed with 17% efficiency...so, either the cables are stretched or the cleaning up of the horrible mess inside the drum was not sufficient...I have your dilemma..methinks new disks and probably new cables....and then the handbrake might just about be 'ok'...

11th April 2011, 17:41	#3
damienp This is my second home skoda estate Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: sheffield Posts: 3,474 Thanks: 15 Thanked 122 Times in 68 Posts	Scaby drums would give you uneven grip, so i would replace the discs for what they cost. I wouldn't want to ruin my new shoes

11th April 2011, 20:58	#5
ted the bear Regular poster MG ZT 135 CDTI Join Date: May 2009 Location: Sheffield Posts: 43 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post	ah well, thats back to brake shop and back on the axle stands then. more cash but at least they will be done for next year.

11th April 2011, 21:13	#6
COLVERT This is my second home R75 Saloon. Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: France/or Devon. Posts: 14,003 Thanks: 3,851 Thanked 2,167 Times in 1,816 Posts	And don't forget to apply the handbrake at slow speed at least once a month to stop the drums from rusting up. A hundred yards would do it.

13th April 2011, 21:42	#7
ted the bear Regular poster MG ZT 135 CDTI Join Date: May 2009 Location: Sheffield Posts: 43 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post	new discs new pads £60, Mintex kit. shoes adjusted to solid then backed to just touching. adjusted the nut under handbrake lever at 25mm it doesn't feel to be connected to anything at 30 mm I have a handbrake on 6 clicks. Other than a stretched cable no idea what else could be wrong

13th April 2011, 23:32	#9
James.uk Passed Away 2002 Pale Blue. Rover 75 CDTi Connoisseur auto. 170K miles Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Near the M67. Posts: 14,509 Thanks: 199 Thanked 585 Times in 397 Posts	Keith at Ellesmere did quite a comprehensive study on this, see if you can find the thread.. I seem to recall that the standard cables are a bit long to start with, and that you may need to make a new adjuster out of an M6 bolt for the rear wheels... But --- I may be wrong ------ ...