|
||
|
31st May 2013, 07:04 | #11 | |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 2.0 V6 Auto Join Date: May 2011
Location: Sandnes - Norway
Posts: 1,560
Thanks: 64
Thanked 283 Times in 174 Posts
|
Quote:
Nice to read your experience I have done a cylinder head according to the above procedure a while back including the peening. It has covered thousands of miles since that operation and is still working great. What I did that time was also to da a hardnes test and fitted the saver shim together with a MLS gasket. It weeps a little as the MLS`s tends to do, so I will go for the Elastomer gasket this time. Here are the other cylinder head I reconditioned: http://forums.mg-rover.org/showpost....&postcount=107 Last edited by beinet1; 31st May 2013 at 07:06.. |
|
19th June 2013, 20:02 | #12 |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 2.0 V6 Auto Join Date: May 2011
Location: Sandnes - Norway
Posts: 1,560
Thanks: 64
Thanked 283 Times in 174 Posts
|
Hi all,
Not much done since last update, but I have a few £$£$ extra to spend these days and I am thinking of buying pistons + liners. The cheapest I have found on Ebay is these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROVER-K-SERIES-25-45-75-VVC-4-x-PISTON-LINER-SET-1-6-1-8-/170985520252?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM& hash=item27cf87fc7c . Read on other threads, the quality on these should be pretty good. On the other hand, I have found piston/liner set a lot cheaper at this site: http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/piston-liner-kseries-lcj000050lkit-p-6218.html Does anyone have any idea of the quality of these? Thanks for answers |
29th July 2013, 04:49 | #13 |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 2.0 V6 Auto Join Date: May 2011
Location: Sandnes - Norway
Posts: 1,560
Thanks: 64
Thanked 283 Times in 174 Posts
|
Hi All,
Not much done on this project the last month due to vacation, family stuff, etc.etc… but are now trying to move slowly forward when there is a free “time slot” now and then J The pistons and liners from Island 4x4 was received before my vacation. They was delivered in unmarked boxes with no labeling or part numbers engraved in the parts. Look like “nonames”. The items looks OK, So I hope the quality is also… Time will show The plan now, is to remove the pistons from the block and have the new ones fitted to the old conrods. Some of this was done last evening: The sump, pickup tube and oil rail was removed from the block. The bolts was put in bags with were labeled: I marked the bottom of the conrods with tiny punch marks, number one at the timing belt side had one mark. The marks was punched in the front end of the con rod. Pistons removed from the block: I noticed that all the conrods had some “discoloring” on the small end due to exposure from heat. I guess this is from the heating of the small end due to assembly at the factory? Or have these pistons been refitted before?? What do you think? Last edited by beinet1; 16th January 2018 at 18:56.. |
2nd August 2013, 06:45 | #14 |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 2.0 V6 Auto Join Date: May 2011
Location: Sandnes - Norway
Posts: 1,560
Thanks: 64
Thanked 283 Times in 174 Posts
|
Hi All,
Moving forward slightly, pistons removed from the conrods according to Lovel`s excellent procedure (https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=124644 ). A lot of “manhood” was required to drive out the gudgeon pin with a vice, but now they are out J Last edited by beinet1; 16th January 2018 at 18:56.. |
2nd August 2013, 08:07 | #15 |
I really should get out more.......
P6B, L550, Imp, F56, Commando Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 2,886
Thanks: 352
Thanked 677 Times in 440 Posts
|
The conrods would be discoloured in the factory induction assembly process, so I wouldn't think they have been out before.
Wait until you get to the part to fit the gudgeon pins, can be a bit nerve racking when to install How much liner protrusion do you have with the new liners. I still reckon the branded Yenmak stuff is top quality, The shiny unbranded parts you have, well we will see how they survive. Did they come with gudgeon pins? |
2nd August 2013, 08:22 | #16 | |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 2.0 V6 Auto Join Date: May 2011
Location: Sandnes - Norway
Posts: 1,560
Thanks: 64
Thanked 283 Times in 174 Posts
|
Quote:
Thanks for your feedback I have to admit that I have mixed feelings about fitting the new pistons, but I assume it shall be OK as long as I plan the process throughly. I had a discussion with an ex marine engine overhauler at work. In general, they used to cool down the inner parts with "dry-ice" rather than heating up the sorunding parts prior to assembly. I guess that there is different fitting techniques to the different brands. I have picked up a lot of usefull tips from this guy I plan to heat up the small end with a torch and check the temperature with an IR termometer during heat up. 3-400 deg C should do it? I will also put the gudgeon pins in the freezer as this will create a larger temperature differense. The pistons came with new gudgeon pins. I have not checked the protrution with the new liners yet, but there was a 0,001"-0,002" protrution with the old liners. I will trial fit the new ones sooner or later and buy shims if required. I plan to fit the elastomer gasket to this one, so sligthly above the block would be sufficient. The piston/liner supplier claimed that the bits came from the King piston company and that the quality was good. He had sold hundreds of them. Only time will show how they work out, but the Yenmaks in your thread looks better |
|
5th August 2013, 04:49 | #17 |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 2.0 V6 Auto Join Date: May 2011
Location: Sandnes - Norway
Posts: 1,560
Thanks: 64
Thanked 283 Times in 174 Posts
|
Hi All,
Continued yesterday to strip down the block for all external components like brackets, water pump, oil pump etc.. The block is now more or less stripped down except for the crankshaft, which will be removed in the next step. I noticed that the crankshaft endfloat seems to be excessive and did a rough measurement of the crankshaft endfloat with a depth gauge on my caliper. Rough values are 0,6-0,7mm which is far too much… Service limit is 0,35mm. I will inspect the thrust bearings and do a closer inspection on this during removal of the crankshaft…. Any thoughts about this?? Last edited by beinet1; 16th January 2018 at 18:56.. |
5th August 2013, 05:25 | #18 |
Gets stuck in
Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Essex
Posts: 609
Thanks: 518
Thanked 162 Times in 104 Posts
|
Enjoyed reading your thread which much interest as I have a MGF although your skills far exceed mine.
Is that a Morris Oxford in the last photo ? |
5th August 2013, 05:55 | #19 | |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 2.0 V6 Auto Join Date: May 2011
Location: Sandnes - Norway
Posts: 1,560
Thanks: 64
Thanked 283 Times in 174 Posts
|
Quote:
Thanks for that Its a good guess! Its a -68 Oxford which has been in my family since brand new. It still flies through the MOT`s, but its bodywork is not looking good any longer. I am planing a restoration of this one somwhere in the far future.... Now its just resting together with all my other bits in my garage, only taken out in the sun now and then so it don`t seizes up... |
|
5th August 2013, 06:14 | #20 | |
This is my second home
75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Johannesburg ZA
Posts: 6,200
Thanks: 1
Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts
|
Quote:
British cars! |
|
|
|