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Old 14th May 2019, 08:55   #21
Rsnail
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I haven't already flushed the system because I haven't had the time necessary, will do it right before replacing the thermostat, my actual one is stuck on open so that would be an advantage when flushing the system, and for the last refill, I will be doing that once the new thermostat would be already installed, want to flush it more times to have it as clean as possible, also flushing the radiator separately. Also, I am not sure I have a hgf because as far as I know, if that's the case, coolant would be leaking into the oil most of the times and not the other way around, I am suspecting an oil cooler issue or inlet manifold gaskets...

Regarding the flushing method, I'll be using this guide: KV6 flushing
It's pretty straightforward and easy to do, but instead of draining through the oil cooler pipes, I'll be using the lower radiator hose (and cylinder block drain plug of course)

Last edited by Rsnail; 14th May 2019 at 09:00..
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Old 14th May 2019, 13:42   #22
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...I am not sure I have a hgf ...
The KV6 isn't intrinsically susceptible to head gasket failure so, unless your engine has been abused at some time in its life or been subject to careless maintenance, neither am I. You'd be very unlucky to have suffered an oil cooler breakage at this time.
I would drive the car regularly and see if it disappears or gets worse.

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Regarding the flushing method, I'll be using this guide: KV6 flushing
Like T-Cut, I disapprove of the author's suggestion that you allow coolant to drain whilst the engine is running. MGJohn's method of driving the car with a flushing agent in the coolant then draining and refilling is much safer.
Also note that the author isn't using a Rover 75. He mentions a bleeding plug in the top hose which the 75 doesn't have.

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Old 14th May 2019, 20:33   #23
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Flushed the system today, took 3 proper flushes to get the system cleaned out, the dirt was draining in the dirt in there lol, for the last flush, managed to get almost all the water out of the system by blowing compressed air (not forcefully of course) in the bottom radiator hose which shoved out all of the muck inside there and the water was running clean through the radiator afterwards. When slowly refilling the reservoir for the last time with distilled water, added a coolant flush solution, and after the system was filled, started the engine with the reservoir cap off and gently filled the reservoir as the water was drawn into the system, and at this point, after the coolant flush solution ciruclated through the engine and returned to the expansion tank through the small upper hose connected to it, it formed some kind of dense clean "foam" to say so, I think that this is normal as the solution circulated through the system and started to do it's job, after the level was settled, closed the cap and right now I'm letting the engine cool for about an hour, will check when it's cool and post an update here as how the distilled water with the flush solution is looking in the expansion tank, and of course will top up with distilled water if necessary, the last flush will be done on saturday morning before replacing the thermostat.

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Old 15th May 2019, 11:34   #24
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- - - after the coolant flush solution ciruclated through the engine and returned to the expansion tank through the small upper hose connected to it, it formed some kind of dense clean "foam" - - -

That's interesting. Can you post a video or photo of this happening?


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Old 15th May 2019, 11:40   #25
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T-Cut, will leave the engine run a bit after I get home from work to warm up and if it appears again, I'll shoot a video and upload it somewhere.

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Old 15th May 2019, 11:56   #26
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the foam could be returning air.
The cooling system is self-bleeding.
This works via a "jiggle" valve. A jiggle valve normally is a ball that seals of for water. The ball is lighter than water and heavier than air.
So when some trapped air is assembled, it will let that through, but when it is followed by water, the ball is lifted and seals the line.
As you get small amounts of air through, it can fizzle, and if there is a "soap" or cleaner in the system, it can create a foam of fine bubbles.
That would be my take on this.
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Old 15th May 2019, 12:30   #27
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That seems like you really know your thing kaiser haha, it's exactly that type of foam fine bubbles that you are talking about.

EDIT: Yesterday fell asleep after checking the coolant in the evening after engine cooled down haha, anyways, yesterday evening checked it and the expansion tank was empty, I think that after the engine ran hot yestersay after refilling for the last time it pushed all the air out of the system and after it cooled down it left the expansion tank empty, anyways, topped it up to normal again, ran the car for about one hour today, let it cool, and the level now is at nornal, also, it shows just very small amounts of leftover dirt in the coolant after doing all those flushes and it's normal since the coolant flush solution is doing it's thing I guess.

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Old 16th May 2019, 08:43   #28
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Now regarding the thermostat replacement, I have a few questions, would you guys recommend putting some Loctite 242 around the O ring of the straight pipe or after the pipe is fitted right outside the joint, or anywhere else for the other O rings of the other pipes?

Also, I've heard about some O rings for the fuel rails getting damaged when removing the fuel rails or something like that, is there any way to avoid this, should the fuel rails be removed from the alloy inlet manifolds or do they stay in place on the manifolds and come off with them together, which is the way to do it properly and avoid such damage?

EDIT: Today arrived the tester kit for the head gasket, after 15 mins with the engine running, the blue liquid didn't change it's color, not even slightly, so the head gasket is not damaged, thank God, but strangely, after those flushes, for the last 3 days I've had no coolant loss anymore with the system filled now with pure distilled water, but I guess only after replacing the thermostat and inlet gaskets and running like that for a week or so will tell the truth, atleast no hgf which is a big stone off my shoulder.

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Old 17th May 2019, 08:45   #29
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Also, I've heard about some O rings for the fuel rails getting damaged when removing the fuel rails or something like that, is there any way to avoid this ...
Yes. Only disconnect the fuel supply pipe from the rail at its joint above the plastic manifold chamber next to the battery. The pipe can then be swung upwards into a vertical position without disturbing the connection further upstream beside the LH bank. This is the procedure quoted by MG Rover in RAVE.
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... should the fuel rails be removed from the alloy inlet manifolds ...
The fuel rails are connected to the injectors. I separated this joint rather than attempting to remove the injectors as the manual states. There's a clip to slide off on each injector, then the rail can be lifted whilst overcoming the resistance of a small 'O' ring. If you're careful, these 'O' rings do not need to be renewed.

Regarding your other question, I have sent you a PM.

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... strangely, after those flushes, for the last 3 days I've had no coolant loss anymore ...
Maybe you had trapped air. The main thing is that you've made progress without major work.

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Old 18th May 2019, 23:22   #30
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Long story short, everything went fine up until the point where I started the car and noticed that one of the injectors was spraying fuel out, stopped it immediately, disassembled the plastic manifold again and lifted the fuel rail out with the injectors in place, for the injector that was leaking fuel, the small seal from the rail side was pinched Can you guys tell me the sizes of these seals? Or maybe other car models that use seals of this size? Will also try my luck at some garages here around but I am not hoping for much...
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