Ball joint welded to subframe

zaph · 13th September 2015, 18:24

We have tried fire (heat), many hammers, hammering from the side, underneath. We have dropped the car onto the balljoint from a great height. The damn thing is still welded in.

It is so bad that in attempting to remove it with a ball joint seperator the whole arm came out of the ball joint. It is the worst design for a front suspension I have ever seen. If this is a BMW part, god knows how the Germans got a reputation from engineering excellence.

Still rant aside we are stuck, even trying to make a puller failed.

Has anyone got any ideas? Is it possible to drill the ball joint out?

mh007 · 13th September 2015, 19:02

I've never actually had one that tight & I've fitted loads of them !

Don't get me wrong, they can be a pain to come out but after a bit of persuasion, they usually give in.

By the way, BMW have a similar setup on some of their models too !!

When you say you've used heat, what have you used ? (you'll need some decent heat, not one of those little blow lamps).

murphyv310 · 13th September 2015, 19:12

Hi .
Dropping the joints threaded part onto an axle stand isn't really the best idea. I've done it and yes it can work but it can also cause the whole taper to dig in as the angle is wrong.
In this case you really need to get the car high so you can hit the end squarely with a heavy hammer or borrow a big joint splitter.

spyder · 13th September 2015, 19:19

You need to jack the wheel or hub up, in order that the angle is reduced between the two components. Once this evasive angle is correct, it just falls out.

Craig.

murphyv310 · 13th September 2015, 19:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by spyder

You need to jack the wheel or hub up, in order that the angle is reduced between the two components. Once this evasive angle is correct, it just falls out.

Craig.

Actually one I did just popped out with the axle stand sitting as a rest for the taper

zaph · 13th September 2015, 19:52

Tried a big joint splitter, that is what removed the arm. Can't change the angle, the arm isn't attached to the car anymore.

stocktake · 13th September 2015, 20:01

Send a PM to Trikey, a member on here. I remember he had one do the same a while back, cannot remember how he managed if finally but the air was blue

13th September 2015, 18:24	#1
zaph Avid contributor Rover 75 Join Date: May 2015 Location: Leeds Posts: 135 Thanks: 0 Thanked 17 Times in 11 Posts	Ball joint welded to subframe We have tried fire (heat), many hammers, hammering from the side, underneath. We have dropped the car onto the balljoint from a great height. The damn thing is still welded in. It is so bad that in attempting to remove it with a ball joint seperator the whole arm came out of the ball joint. It is the worst design for a front suspension I have ever seen. If this is a BMW part, god knows how the Germans got a reputation from engineering excellence. Still rant aside we are stuck, even trying to make a puller failed. Has anyone got any ideas? Is it possible to drill the ball joint out?

13th September 2015, 19:12	#3
murphyv310 This is my second home Hyundai i10 998cc Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Kilmarnock Posts: 6,602 Thanks: 2,088 Thanked 2,298 Times in 1,349 Posts	Hi . Dropping the joints threaded part onto an axle stand isn't really the best idea. I've done it and yes it can work but it can also cause the whole taper to dig in as the angle is wrong. In this case you really need to get the car high so you can hit the end squarely with a heavy hammer or borrow a big joint splitter. __________________ Cheers from Trevor MM0KJJ

13th September 2015, 19:19	#4
spyder This is my second home 75 CDT Auto Tourer , Rover 45 , Astra, Zaffira, Chev Captiva Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Wilts Posts: 3,342 Thanks: 203 Thanked 436 Times in 360 Posts	You need to jack the wheel or hub up, in order that the angle is reduced between the two components. Once this evasive angle is correct, it just falls out. Craig. __________________ Chrome skull caps, EGR cleaned (original housing), Mondeo lower mounting, 12V outlets in the armrest and tourer boot, cat fixed, working FBH, Lidl plenum covers, DD with reverse camera.New speakesr/Tweeters with MDF rings. wood dash, Memory leather seats, wooden finished steering and handbrake, Xenon headlights.

13th September 2015, 20:01	#7
stocktake Vis Whiz Rover 75 2.5 auto Saloon Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: LEEDS Posts: 20,587 Thanks: 2,057 Thanked 3,056 Times in 1,621 Posts	Send a PM to Trikey, a member on here. I remember he had one do the same a while back, cannot remember how he managed if finally but the air was blue __________________ Dave... Lost a few stones and a Gall Bladder and part of a bile duct and all of my dignity in the suppository incident

13th September 2015, 19:02	#2
mh007 This is my second home MG ZT260 SE, MG ZT190+, MG ZTT 160, R75 Conn SE 2.0, R75 Conn SE 2.5 X 3, R75 Club SE 1.8, P5B Coupe Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Keynsham, Bristol Posts: 4,211 Thanks: 65 Thanked 635 Times in 499 Posts	I've never actually had one that tight & I've fitted loads of them ! Don't get me wrong, they can be a pain to come out but after a bit of persuasion, they usually give in. By the way, BMW have a similar setup on some of their models too !! When you say you've used heat, what have you used ? (you'll need some decent heat, not one of those little blow lamps).

13th September 2015, 19:52	#6
zaph Avid contributor Rover 75 Join Date: May 2015 Location: Leeds Posts: 135 Thanks: 0 Thanked 17 Times in 11 Posts	Tried a big joint splitter, that is what removed the arm. Can't change the angle, the arm isn't attached to the car anymore.