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11th February 2008, 10:02 | #1 |
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The Clicking of Doom?
My car has developed a clicking/tapping noise coming from the rear of the engine. Have booked it into the dealers for Friday but I'm hoping to god its not something expensive.
A search on here suggests the manifold but the car still drives well and has the power surge at 3000rpm. Anything else it could be? |
11th February 2008, 16:41 | #2 |
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When my VIS motor broke I had a constant clicking sound from the engine. The switch inside to disengage the motor was broken so the motor stayed on popped hald way out of it's mountings, hence the clicking. I unplugged the connector to the VIS unit and the clicking stopped.
Doesn't one of the VIS motors kick in at 3000 - 3500 revs? Something like that I think.
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11th February 2008, 18:51 | #3 |
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Sounds right
Worth a replacement of one VIS motor just to see if you can get away with that first..... Classic symptom is sounding like it has a dry tappet in the rear bank of cylinders
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11th February 2008, 19:22 | #4 |
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How easy is replacing the vis motor? The car is going in for a service friday and I've asked them to check out the clicking. If I can sort it before hand it will save me a few pennies!
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11th February 2008, 21:41 | #5 |
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A bit fiddly getting to the rear screws as they're near the bulkhead bitty. It's just a case of undoing the screws, swapping the rubber seals to the new units and screwing the new ones on.
Each one costs about £130, or it did when I replaced mine. You might want to check it definitely is the VIS before spending the money.
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11th February 2008, 21:55 | #6 |
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The rear vis motor, the Balance one is easy to do on a Rover 75 V6 engine, recommended to disconnect battery but i don't just make sure key is out ign. there are four screws to undo plus the electrical plug, and the motor just pulls away from the manifold and flap. This one only operates one flap, there is a thread on repairing them yourself just type in vis on search. If you replace with new, Rimmers price is £60 each motor. Just before you fasten it back onto the manifold replace the electrical plug turn ignition to the second position, do not start the engine this is to set the new motor, it will only go back onto the flap in one position as the peg isnt quite square. Make sure you replace the gasket and fasten it back on with the screws. Takes about 1/4 hr the Power vis motor lies flat in front of the balance one, this operates a rod which in turn moves the six individual flaps one in each of the plastic inlet manifold tubes. It is these that either break off or come off and cause the really load rattle but replacing the motor is exactly the same apart this is a different peg to attach to the slide. But the price of a manifold is dear a £600 touch. Cheers basham
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12th February 2008, 07:18 | #7 |
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Sound advice, thanks chaps. I might be sneaky and ask the garage to diagnose the problem and then go "sorry not got enough to do that i'll come back later." Then just pay for the service and their time.
I'll have a search on the site, are there any part numbers floating about for the motors? |
12th February 2008, 17:16 | #8 |
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12th February 2008, 21:06 | #9 | |
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Quote:
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15th February 2008, 16:18 | #10 |
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Well my car came back from its service, the rattle is indeed the manifold but they told me its only slight and nothing to worry about unless it gets louder when the engine is hot. Only other problem is slight front tyre uneven wear and a coolant stain with no possible source to keep my eye on! So pretty pleased!
Even got them to activate the highline on the T4 so i can access the trip mileage on the screen. |
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