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Old 6th July 2014, 20:11   #1
DMGRS
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Default Harsh automatic gearbox changes - Failed 2/4 Duty Solenoid

Well guys, yesterday my new (to me) ZT-T started changing gear with an astonishing roughness - most notably when shifting from 2nd to 3rd.
I've only had the car 3 weeks, and previously my only other automatic was a 75 diesel now owned by Roverlink that never put a foot wrong. I'm a little out of my depth!

I'm going to replace the solenoid, and produce a guide detailing how it's done including plenty of pictures. I had trouble finding similar myself - so hopefully it'll help others doing the job.

Here's a pinout with the values you should get - to test, you need to locate the twist-together connector between the wing and battery box. It's the connector towards the front of the car.


I'll add more to this when I've done the swap - ordering a solenoid tomorrow.

Once done, I'll request it's moved to the 'How To' section for future reference.
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Old 7th July 2014, 07:05   #2
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Good luck! If all else fails, I have a good autobox sitting here for sale. (see for sale section)
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Old 7th July 2014, 08:31   #3
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You have a PM

Good idea

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Old 10th July 2014, 15:22   #4
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Right, first of all it's done and working well - lovely job.

Next, the How To guide....

How to change a solenoid on the Jatco JF506E Automatic Gearbox (as fitted to the MG ZT and Rover 75 models)

You will need:
- About 2 hours.
- A replacement of the solenoid you're changing (repair is unlikely).
- A clean container to catch the ATF removed from the gearbox, however I'd recommend replacing with new ATF. It'll need to hold at least 4L.
- Basic tools (10mm socket, small extension bar is useful, ratchet, 24mm socket and a breaker bar). I recommend 1/4" for the 10mm socket, and 1/2" for the 24mm socket.
- Instant Gasket. I used some Granville stuff from Halfords (the 'clear' variety).

Halfords do a great 1/4" socket set I used for the job - currently on offer for £24.99 too. Bargain.


1. First of all, jack up your car and make sure it's secure. If only jacking up one side, make sure it's the passenger side.
2. Next, use your 24mm socket and breaker bar to undo the sump plug of the automatic gearbox, making sure your drain bucket is in place. Catch all of the ATF, and once the drain is just dripping, replace the plug and re-tighten.


3. Depending on how much workspace you like, remove any items in front of and in the area of the automatic gearbox you think may be in the way - I removed both boost hoses, relocated the starter motor live connection, and the expansion tank.


4. Remove all of the 10mm bolts around the front plate of the gearbox. The bolts along the bottom edge are best accessed from underneath.


5. Carefully prise the plate away from the gearbox, taking care not to damage either the radiator or any of the solenoids with it. I'd recommend cleaning the inner surface of it - mine had a bit of 'sludge' upon it.
You'll see the following; this is the valve body:


6. You need to now remove the solenoid in question - I imagine a lot of people viewing this will be doing so to change the 2/4 Duty Solenoid. When viewed from the front, it's the second solenoid from the bottom, on the right-hand side (top one in this picture):


7. Fit your new solenoid, and re-connect it. Make sure all securing bolts are nice and tight.

8. Now the tricky part - re-attaching the front cover.
You need to be *very* careful you don't go OTT with the instant gasket, as it can cause all kinds of havoc if it starts floating around the gearbox.
First of all, clean the mating surfaces of the access panel and the gearbox.
Then apply a very thin bead of gasket around the plate, making sure you seal along the inside of the bolt holes. Once the gasket is applied, spread it out by flattening it with a lolly stick or the edge of a credit card. You should be left with a shallow coating of gasket around the sealing surface of the cover.
Line it up with the mating surface on the gearbox, being careful not to damage the newly-applied sealant. Once you've got it back in place, re-insert the bolts loosely at first, and once all bolts are in place tighten them correctly. The bolts don't need to be tight - just enough to ensure the instant gasket seal won't leak.

9. Refill the gearbox with the oil removed - if using new oil, allow the old oil to cool and then measure. Insert the same quantity of new oil as was removed, but you'll need to check the level is correct following the method at the end of this guide.

10. Re-attach all removed items, and make sure all hose joints etc are leak-free if they've been disturbed.

Before moving the car, you need to sit with the car at idle and 'run through the gears' for 10 seconds at a time while keeping the car still - this makes sure oil is distributed as needed around the gearbox.
Finally, if you've used new oil, you can now check the level is correct by removing the 'level plug'. If no oil emerges, add a little at a time until it does.

Disclaimer:
You are responsible for any work or modifications carried out on your car and you undertake any such work at your own risk.
The 75 and ZT Owners Club nor the original author of this How-To can be held liable for anything that may happen as a result
of you following this How-To.
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Last edited by Dragrad; 10th July 2014 at 20:37.. Reason: Disclaimer added
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Old 10th July 2014, 15:43   #5
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A very good guide Mat. To avoid using sealant on the cover, JP Automatic Transmissions have a gasket available.

Simon
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Old 10th July 2014, 15:47   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
A very good guide Mat. To avoid using sealant on the cover, JP Automatic Transmissions have a gasket available.

Simon
Very good for others to know - as mentioned in the guide, the last thing you want is instant gasket inside the gearbox! Thank you.
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Old 10th July 2014, 16:14   #7
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what do you use to do the test with ?
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Old 10th July 2014, 16:39   #8
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what do you use to do the test with ?
I used a normal multimeter - your bog standard one will do the test OK.
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Old 10th July 2014, 17:43   #9
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HI Matt,

Good to hear you`ve fixed the autobox, also what a brilliant write up. Well done.

When are you starting work for Haynes Manuals?

Cheers Pete.
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Old 10th July 2014, 18:56   #10
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Not quite yet Pete, I'll have to hand my notice in first... oh wait.
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