Lower wishbone bush crisis

[trikey]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

Both bushes, or both pairs on both cars

Slowcoach

Only two bushes on one car..

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

I asked this on the other wishbone bush thread so I'll put it here too:

An intriguing facet of this (to me anyway), is why does Xpart/Rimmer list a different Part Number for the Rover 75 rear bush and the MG ZT version? It's always been my understanding that different Part Numbers mean different parts. Yet from what I see, most aftermarket sellers offer the same part for the 75 and the ZT. I assumed it may be to provide the different suspension specs (eg the front camber angles, which through some mechanism are different). But, the reasoning I was given on the forum, is that the rubber used for the bushes is different in its stiffness. A bit like the diesel's lower engine mount bush, which is stiffer than the others. Anyone have a view on this?

TC

My view is simple, the original parts will have long since gone, and the replacements will be sourced from the far east more than likely, so will be the same regardless of what is said about them part number wise.

You are better off sourcing Unipart items if you can find them as new old stock, than paying through the nose for poor quality "OEM" items

Brian

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

My view is simple, the original parts will have long since gone, and the replacements will be sourced from the far east more than likely, so will be the same regardless of what is said about them part number wise.

Ah, so Unipart (like Rimmer) supply a different bush for the 75 and the ZT?
Do you fit different bushes? I'm intrigued because MGR wouldn't have made them different unless it was important to the ride/handling of the two cars.



TC

[Comfortably Numb]

Originally Posted by COLVERT

Road spring on full extension you say.

How about spring clamps to take off the load ???

I don't have any!

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by Comfortably Numb

I don't have any!

And nor do you need any Andrew

Brian

[Comfortably Numb]

Thanks, Brian, although there have been times when they would have made life easier (and safer!) If I really needed some, I could have probably borrowed some off a neighbour who maintains and hires out his stable of classic sports cars.

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

And nor do you need any Andrew

Brian

Interesting.

Please tell my why taking the load off the lower arms doesn't help. Surely the spring is forcing them down if you are trying to change the housings in situ.

Just a need to know as during the next week or two I'll be changing mine.

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by COLVERT

Interesting.

Please tell my why taking the load off the lower arms doesn't help. Surely the spring is forcing them down if you are trying to change the housings in situ.

Just a need to know as during the next week or two I'll be changing mine.

Jon, I suggest you take a look HERE

Brian

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

Jon, I suggest you take a look HERE

Brian

Thanks for your input. --

I am fitting new arms as well as the rubber bush holders.

Can the arms be removed first and if so will that give better access to the rubber bush holders ??

I note that the rubber bushes seem to have flats inside them.
That's the reason why I suggested spring compressors to help the arms slide into the bushes easily.

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by COLVERT

Thanks for your input. --

I am fitting new arms as well as the rubber bush holders.

Can the arms be removed first and if so will that give better access to the rubber bush holders ??

I note that the rubber bushes seem to have flats inside them.
That's the reason why I suggested spring compressors to help the arms slide into the bushes easily.

In that case proceed as follows Jon.........

Fit the bushes to the arms, using a water based lubricant such as swarfega or liquid soap, don't use washing up liquid, as this contains salt.

Now fit the centre balljoint loosely to the subframe, and before engaging the outer balljoint, refit the two bolts securing the bush housing to the subframe, it will be easier to do this if the strut/hub assembly is pulled forward slightly to allow the arm to be moved up and down to get the bush housing parallel with the subframe.

Finally fit the outer balljoint to the swivel hub, noting that the angle at which the ballpin is entered into the hub determines whether it can fully pass through, and if you find it binding on the reduced diameter waist, then grasping the hub and gently adjusting the angle of dangle will allow it to fully engage

Ian "Macafee" alluded to this technique when he mentioned shaking the strut to achieve the same result.

You don't need to compress the springs either

Brian