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Old 21st October 2019, 16:11   #1
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Question Brake pipe unions - advice please

I need to get the rear brake hoses off so I can clean up the mounting bracket and fit new hoses. What's the best method of undoing these unions?

The pipes are copper but everything else is steel and it looks like rust will cause problems. I'm not sure if I should give it a liberal dosing of Plusgas or whether that will risk contamination.

I've only got open ended spanners - do I need a special brake spanner?

Advice please.


Pics shows the LH union

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Old 21st October 2019, 16:17   #2
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Here's one of the new hoses (Delphi)

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Old 21st October 2019, 16:26   #3
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https://www.amazon.co.uk/Yato-YT-014...s%2C165&sr=8-4

or

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-3196...1671835&sr=8-3

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Old 21st October 2019, 18:21   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blink View Post
What's the best method of undoing these unions?
Given that they are in unserviceable condition, use any method which works, including penetrating oil (PlusGas or equivalent).
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I've only got open ended spanners - do I need a special brake spanner?
No.

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Old 21st October 2019, 18:42   #5
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In my humble opinion brake pipe spanners are an excellent idea, but admittedly not always needed, especially with copper.
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Old 21st October 2019, 19:10   #6
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On the several ZTs I have worked on, all four of those Brake Line Unions in the wheel arches are prone to corrosion and can be very difficult to undo. Not really surprising given constant exposure to road filth etc. in those locations.

Even with the correct Union spanners which I have. Yes, still difficult even after liberal application of good Penetrating Fluid and on one instance, heat. That one still not moved. It's at the front on the right/driver side.

Those same Unions at the other end of the the four Brake Lines where they enter the ABS Modulator still look like new and are never troublesome.

I shall use an Angle Grinder to cut that whole stubborn Brake Line out even if the flexible hose to the Caliper needs to be destroyed in the process. I did remove a good used O/S/F brake line from a scrapyard 75 and was prepared to fit that AND a good used Flexi-hose to the Brake Caliper too. Instead, using the scrapyard line as a pattern, I created a new one out of the Cupro-Nickel KIT I purchased a while back. Cupro-Nickel which is far more corrosion resistant than the original production line metal components.

All done ready to fit when time and weather allows. Creating new Brake Lines and their flares is a skill I thought I did not possess... Old dog new tricks scenario. Another thing which appeals to my artistic ... bent. .. bent being the operative word here... I also created an O/S/F brake line which my son fitted to his 1983 MG Metro he is restoring. Again, using superior Cupro-Nickel material.
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Old 21st October 2019, 19:33   #7
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Well, I've tried undoing the RH one with an ordinary 11mm open ended spanner and this is what happened.



You can see the hexagon is starting to round off - so I stopped before it got completely wrecked. I don't want to have to change these pipes - I don't have the equipment, the pipework skill or the time (there's too much other stuff to do - e.g. refit the subframe, suspension, hubs, brakes, exhaust, etc, etc). I can't even reach most of the pipe run - the car isn't high enough off the ground.

I'll get a proper brake spanner and see if that shifts it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
Given that they are in unserviceable condition, use any method which works, including penetrating oil (PlusGas or equivalent).

No.

Simon
Quote:
Originally Posted by breakfastinsmethwick View Post
In my humble opinion brake pipe spanners are an excellent idea, but admittedly not always needed, especially with copper.
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On the several ZTs I have worked on, all four of those Brake Line Unions in the wheel arches are prone to corrosion and can be very difficult to undo.
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Old 21st October 2019, 20:01   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blink View Post
I'll get a proper brake spanner and see if that shifts it.
If I understand the term correctly, brake pipe spanners are enclosed tools designed to fit bleed nipples. What you have there is a standard hexagon nut with a pipe through the middle of it. If an open ended spanner doesn't work, it will be necessary to destroy the fitting and buy a new one, but that will mean creating a new flare on the pipe. The equipment can be bought (I recommend the Sykes Pickavant Flaremaster 2) and no special skill is required with the right tools.

I'm afraid Simon that you will have to be patient and allow the time necessary to deal with what is, after all, a common problem on anything exposed to rainwater which is unprotected.

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Old 21st October 2019, 20:25   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
If I understand the term correctly, brake pipe spanners are enclosed tools designed to fit bleed nipples. What you have there is a standard hexagon nut with a pipe through the middle of it. If an open ended spanner doesn't work, it will be necessary to destroy the fitting and buy a new one, but that will mean creating a new flare on the pipe. The equipment can be bought (I recommend the Sykes Pickavant Flaremaster 2) and no special skill is required with the right tools.

I'm afraid Simon that you will have to be patient and allow the time necessary to deal with what is, after all, a common problem on anything exposed to rainwater which is unprotected.

Simon
I meant the type of spanner that goes over the pipe then 'around' the nut - like the one used in this video (to get a good view of it, pause then repeatedly stop-start from 3m 27s to 3m 33s - ish ). My ordinary open-ended spanners don't wrap around like that one does - all they do is round off the hexagon.
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Old 21st October 2019, 20:36   #10
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On a severely corroded nut I think you need to use Vise Grips/Mole wrench and lots of penetrating fluid. The fitting will be scrap afterwards however.

Simon
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