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7th February 2016, 18:59 | #1 |
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Rover 75 1.8T SE Join Date: Apr 2011
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1.8T Revotec Fan Fitting
Hi folks just fitted a Revotec fan from Jules this weekend and thought Id post up a few pics in case ts any help to anyone.
Jacked the car up so the front was off the floor which makes removal of the front undertrays where they're screwed to the bumper much easier After unscrewing all the undertrays and the 2 screws just inside each wheel arch I undid all the 10mm bolts at the top then popped off the bumper Unplug the cable connecting the electrics to the front bumper Once the bumper is out the way undo all the bolts and 2 nuts holding the crash bar on then remove Undo the bolts securing the pipe across the front of the radiatrs but dont disconnect the pipework Undo the bolts holding the slam panel to the bodywork Undo the clip connected to the pipe Undo the bolt securing slam panel to water reservoir Disconnect the plugs to the back of each light unit Disconnect the plug to the windscreen washer plug. Finally, disconnect the bonnect release cables - I just popped off the box and disconnected the single cable. You can now access the fan! :-) I've replaced the fan a few years back so made a cut out round the pipes which made removing the cowl quicker - just a couple of bolts then lifting it over the tabs on the radiator The 2 connectors to the fan control box need unplugging plus I snipped the cable ties securing them to the shannon tube Fan and shroud lifted away With the shroud off I just snipped the cable ties off the previously installed fan and the control box is just gently prised out Here's the separated fan which I'm replacing as the bearing has become noisey plus Ive never had my car working on slow speed operation so car is very noisey And here's the bare shroud The kit comes with some adapter brackets so attached them with an allen key and spanner As recommended by Jules I removed the inner support fron the shroud using my multi tool (brilliant bu of kit BTW) Inner piece after cutting off I'm not 100% sure why but I left the little spar piece as per pic on the instructions. After drilling matching 6mm holes I attached the brackets to the frame. Be careful to push the fan into the shroud firmly so it sits in properly - I had to flex the spar a bit to make the nut fit behind it. Here's the fan attached to the shroud. One casualty when removing the shroud was one of the radiator tabs snapped off :-( To protect the cables I pinched some cable protector and fitted that round the cables Just for references here's the fan to harness plugs Your supposed to test it all first but I was running out of daylight so I actually reassembled all my bumper etc which is just a reversal of above. I was moving my conrol box from the shroud to resite it in the battery tray to make it more accessible. You can see all the new wires just poking up Here's my 1.8T (year 2003) control box - Id also bought the 2 new relays and fitted them - one note though the smaller relay is ever so slightly bigger so was a bit of a tricky fit Here's all the wires connected up - theyre labled up with letters to match the explanatory sheet. I actually got B & D wrong first time but after checking the fan rotated anticlockwise as view from front I reversed them and all was good This is the initial rough set up just to get it tested etc And after I was sure everything was working I soldered one of the wire joints and added more cable protector etc t make it look a little more OEM I managed to tuck the 2 sets of cables down between the air and fuse boxes so they dont get bashed about And here it is with the controller box hidden inside the battery box (ive just wrapped it in a cloth to stop it rattling but thinking about getting some double sided velcro to stick it down) So after fitting I tried the car with heating on (fan doesnt run unless sat staionary for a while). Tried pressing the demist which makes it come to life. Finally, tried shortng the trinary switch that makes it go like the wind (pun intended) LOL Verdict: A1 mod and delighted with result. Car is much quieter now under normal driving and doesnt do that embarassing fan continuation after pulling to a halt. You could literally hear the fan on the car as it came up the drive. Also, must thank Jukes too for prompt delivery and a bit of phone support with the wiring. Last edited by JeffD; 26th July 2017 at 18:51.. |
7th February 2016, 22:23 | #2 |
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2005 Connoisseur SE 1.8 Turbo,2004 45 1.8 Connoisseur and my beloved 1998 VVC Coupe. Join Date: Nov 2009
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Excellent write up,very well done.
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8th February 2016, 10:07 | #3 |
Still 75less :-(
1988 Defender 90 Join Date: Jun 2011
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Brill!
Very thoughtful and systematic process with good photos. Lovely write up and will come in handy for a lot of us peeps I am sure - thank you!
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8th February 2016, 10:18 | #4 |
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MG ZT260 SE, MG ZT190+, MG ZTT 160, R75 Conn SE 2.0, R75 Conn SE 2.5 X 3, R75 Club SE 1.8, P5B Coupe Join Date: Jul 2009
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Very well laid out, great job.
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8th February 2016, 10:47 | #5 |
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MX-5 ND2 RF Join Date: Sep 2010
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A great How-To, well done.
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8th February 2016, 11:45 | #6 |
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Rover 75 1.8T SE Join Date: Apr 2011
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Cheers folks - I've just added a few more comments to the last few pics which I forgot to do.
Very pleased with this mod and definitely recommend if your fan is noisey or you've lost slow speed operation. Last edited by JeffD; 8th February 2016 at 13:18.. |
26th May 2016, 21:42 | #7 |
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None at the moment Join Date: Dec 2010
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Just fitted one of these kits today for a customer.
Once I made sense of the wiring diagram and got it all wired up it worked well, very pleased overall with it, was just a little time consuming to install when you only set aside X amount of time for customer repairs but at least it was more affordable for the customer and reliable. Only note though is, now I've installed one and know what's what, next time I will stock up on some waterproof connectors in advance as I have a crimping tool for the automotive wiring loom type connectors. I just used self amalgamating tape on the crimps but I felt it wasn't ideal. But otherwise a good value upgrade which works well. |
26th May 2016, 22:04 | #8 |
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ZT 260 SE Twilight and 10 other 75 ZT's :O Join Date: Jan 2007
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Thanks Ronnie
Difficult to choose what type connectors to put in the kit. Soldering is the ultimate of course but majority of end users don't have that equipment or skill ! We use glue lined heat shrink and cut the white connector off the motor wires as it makes a much neater and waterproof job. It was pointed out to me that many owners don't have mains power for a heat gun in the street where their car is parked which I hadn't thought of !! Some dollops of grease on the cable joints is recommended in this situation. The yellow crimp connectors I supply in the kit are in a way a luxury way of labelling the 3 cables which have to be jointed.
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26th May 2016, 22:41 | #9 |
This is my second home
Rover 75 saloon x2, Rover 75 Tourer x2, Rover 220 Coupe Turbo Join Date: Aug 2010
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Excellent. This should be a sticky.
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26th May 2016, 22:46 | #10 | |
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Quote:
That's True lol, never thought about the glue lined heat shrink, that's a good idea, maybe I will try that next time But in terms of practicality for home mechanic the crimps are fine and most suitable. Have you seen these? http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/161035051748?_mwBanner=1 A little more expensive but they are like a normal crimp but can be heat shrunk also. But good upgrade really pleased with it overall and will be fitting more as and when the jobs come up lol. I always send my rover 75 customers to you go buy the aircon bits. first 75 repair I've had to do this year lol but I'm sure there will be more |
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