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Old 22nd November 2019, 14:15   #41
SD1too
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If you are talking about the small earth cable on the front bank ...
No, sorry, I'll try a better explanation.
When you remove the manifold chamber (black plastic moulding) and look at the right hand bank (at the rear of the engine compartment) you should see an earth cable attached under one of the cam cover screws on the far right hand side (close to the battery). Make sure that it is present. It's illustrated in Haynes, page 2B-6, fig. 4.15.
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Those screws at the rear for the manifold have been missing since I've installed the new manifold about 1 year ago, although I've never had problems regarding those missing screws...
As I said, I discovered from experience that it's possible to think that you have refitted the manifold chamber correctly when it fact it is improperly seated. Those two 8mm AF screws are there for a reason, to secure fully the manifold chamber which must be air tight. Attention to detail like this is the secret of long term reliability.

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Old 22nd November 2019, 22:03   #42
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Now you really got me wondering if that earth wire is properly attached back there.. I certainly didn't notice it! Where exactly should it be attached to? One of the coil screws? And what exactly is that ground for?
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Old 23rd November 2019, 15:21   #43
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Just checked and that wire is indeed properly connected, also, flushed the oil with comma flush, poured 2.5l in the engine and let it run at 1400 rpm for 15 minutes. The oil that initially was inside the engine didn't contain any crud in it, it was clean, only thing to notice is that it came out a little black which I think is normal, and it was also containing gasoline in it, it was smelling hard of gasoline. The flushing oil also came out just a little blacker and that's it, no crud and no sludge in it, as I was expecting since I've ALWAYS changed the oil after about 10k miles max.

After all this, misfire is still there, and the exhaust still blows white smoke. And also the tapping noise didn't get cured, it is still there, not even a little quieter. I think it would be logical at this moment to say that the cyl 5 lifter is badly worn and that disturbs the normal valve functioning.

Just as a recap: new spark plugs, injectors cleaned (all spraying perfect now), coil pack switched from cyl 3 to 5, leads switched also for a test, and that NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD- misfire is still on cylinder 5, just a little better after the new spark plugs and that's it...
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Old 23rd November 2019, 17:48   #44
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... and the exhaust still blows white smoke.
What do you think this is?

You believe that you have a noisy hydraulic tappet on no. 5. That means that there's a large gap between the top of the valve stem and the camshaft lobe. The valve will therefore close normally won't it?

Your Delphi code reader identified no.5 as misfiring. Was the sparking plug black or wet to confirm this?

Also, in post no. 36 you described how the fault cleared after renewing the LH bank sparking plugs (odd, if it's a faulty tappet). Then, after renewing the plugs in the RH bank, the fault returned. Might it be possible that you have an intermittent electrical connection in the wiring to one or more of the coils?

Simon

Hang on a minute ... hadn't you used a stethoscope which indicated that the tapping noise was coming from the bellhousing?
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Last edited by SD1too; 23rd November 2019 at 18:03.. Reason: Continual review of available information
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Old 23rd November 2019, 19:49   #45
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Get the compression checked. It's so simple, its just about the first thing I would do. Worn valve stem/seal would explain petrol in oil, Badly seating valve would explain misfire and "tick" could be compression escaping.

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Old 23rd November 2019, 21:32   #46
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Got a major update on the issue now. I wanted to try and swap the coils on the rear of the engine today, and while managed to get to them by removing everything, I noticed that I forgot to tightly screw down the coil screws, I only screwed them hand tight However, torqued everything down properly now, triple checked every single screw and connection and installed everything back. Ran the car, and it runs thousand times better, felt like the misfire was gone for a while, however, the misfire can still slightly be felt while idling, and when running, you can feel it really sporadically, and it happens rarely and it is barely noticeable if you don't know from before that it's there, and while looking at live data with delphi scanner while driving, guess what, now every cylinder was sporadically misfiring in a chaotic matter, even though, as said, you can feel them only every now and then... and also it seems that cylinder 5 is not the one with the most misfires anymore, but rather cylinder 2 now besides the other that happen randomly. Also, white smoke still present.

Although, the situation is furthermore confusing, I've had a a powerful odor of fuel in the oil that I took out of the engine today, and also the exhaust is blowing white smoke, these 2 things indicate that oil gets inside the combustion chamber and is being burned and also that fuel is being forced in the oil too

And Simon, I'd say yes and no, every spark plug was showing signs of only "normal" wear with nr 5 being a little blacker than the others, with normal meaning that they weren't replaced for longer than minimun 4 years I guess, but no abnormal contamination or gunk or sandiness on the electrodes or something like that

And yes, the stethoscope was clearly indicating the souns from the bell hoising, but my mechanic told me that it's not a cedtainty because, of course as every metal part in an engine and transimission is connected to one another, the sound will resonate through every part making the stethoscope method unreliable in this case
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Old 23rd November 2019, 23:35   #47
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... also the exhaust is blowing white smoke, these 2 things indicate that oil gets inside the combustion chamber and is being burned ...
I disagree [Joe] Galambosi. Burning oil produces blue smoke. Thin white smoke indicates coolant in the combustion chamber, similar to that produced when the engine is started in very cold conditions but more sustained.

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Last edited by SD1too; 24th November 2019 at 10:03.. Reason: Apologies for mixing you up with a similar thread.
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Old 24th November 2019, 01:00   #48
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I could get used to Joe lol haha. However, as far as I know, if that would be coolant in the combustion chambers, then the smell of the smoke should also be kind of sweet and in my case it certainly is not, it is that stingy nose disturbing fuel smell
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Old 24th November 2019, 10:36   #49
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I could get used to Joe lol haha. However, as far as I know, if that would be coolant in the combustion chambers, then the smell of the smoke should also be kind of sweet and in my case it certainly is not, it is that stingy nose disturbing fuel smell
Are you using water? is there abnormal pressure in the cooling system?If not then it is not coolant in the combustion chamber
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Old 24th November 2019, 13:14   #50
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I am using red O.A.T. antifreeze 50/50. It is perfectly clean and no abnormal pressure. Also did a intake manifold gasket test and everything is perfectly sealed Will try a vacuum test too. Anyone knows the normal values on idle? And also, is it enough to look at the vacuum with a scanner or should one do an "external" test? Also fuel pressure. What should the normal value be?
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