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Old 1st November 2019, 11:57   #21
Beastie
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Have since applied the white clip and o ring, checked that the new camshaft sensor and crankshaft sensors are okay, and still not starting.

Have posted a video if that helps, will need to turn up the volume to hear.

Could it possible by the starter motor?

All belts checked and appear to be fine, but to be honest, I am checking for tension and breaks, that's about as far as my knowledge goes on the zr belts.

https://youtu.be/5ZgCpqLDGXM

Any help would be appreciated, will have to get rid of if I can't diagnose soon, tia
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Old 1st November 2019, 12:36   #22
SD1too
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Originally Posted by Beastie View Post
... will need to turn up the volume to hear.
Could it possible by the starter motor?
I've listened to your helpful video Terry. It would be even better if you could open the bonnet and place the microphone closer to the engine. However, it does sound at the moment as if the starter motor is turning but the engine isn't.

The pre-engaged starter is designed not to rotate until its drive cog is engaged with the engine. Therefore I can't see how this can be a starter motor problem.

What I would recommend next is that you remove the OSF wheel arch liner, put a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt and see if you can feel resistance commensurate with compression.
Quote:
... as far as my knowledge goes on the zr belts.
ZR?
Your first post's title says ZT 190.
Can you confirm please Terry?

Simon
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Old 1st November 2019, 14:50   #23
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I will do, it was a quick video, I meant zt, but I have a zr as well, had zr for a while, zt is newer so am unfamiliar with the kv6 engine on the 190, will try what you recommend, hopefully will get somewhere soon, thanks 😀

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I've listened to your helpful video Terry. It would be even better if you could open the bonnet and place the microphone closer to the engine. However, it does sound at the moment as if the starter motor is turning but the engine isn't.

The pre-engaged starter is designed not to rotate until its drive cog is engaged with the engine. Therefore I can't see how this can be a starter motor problem.

What I would recommend next is that you remove the OSF wheel arch liner, put a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt and see if you can feel resistance commensurate with compression.

ZR?
Your first post's title says ZT 190.
Can you confirm please Terry?

Simon
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Old 2nd November 2019, 12:07   #24
bl52krz
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Hello Terry and to the club. Thank you for your honesty and willingness to solve the problem with your engine. We are here to try to help you but unfortunately this thread appears to have become rather ... wayward.


As Rob says, the most likely reason for a KV6 to stop and refuse to restart is loosening of the fuel filter canister. All that's needed is to lift it up and try to tighten the two sections. Do not under any circumstances take the canister to pieces. If the tightening results in success, buy the clip and fit it. Of course your filter may already have one.


Never rely on beliefs where fault diagnosis is concerned Terry! To check the oil level on a KV6 the engine must be at normal operating temperature. Stop the engine, withdraw the dipstick and wait five minutes. Re-insert the dipstick slowly and push it fully home then take the reading. You'll probably need several attempts. Placing the graticule on a piece of kitchen towel helps.

The cambelts aren't visible without dismantling. How have you reached this conclusion?

Simon
The oil level should be checked when the engine is cool, not at normal running temperature. Checked when hot, normal running temperature, will give a false reading of being higher than it should be from thermal expansion. Law of physics.
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Old 2nd November 2019, 16:22   #25
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Checked when hot, normal running temperature, will give a false reading of being higher than it should be from thermal expansion. Law of physics.
Hi David,


MG Rover issued a technical bulletin to dealers on the subject of checking the oil level of the KV6 engine. You are quite right that it is permissible to check the level when the engine is cool provided that sufficient time has been allowed for the oil to drain down from the upper parts of the engine. If sufficient time has not elapsed a low dipstick reading will result. This must have been a regular occurrance for MG Rover to go to the trouble of issuing a bulletin. This document specifically recommends taking the measurement on a hot engine after waiting five minutes as you can see here:

"A significant amount of engine oil is retained in the upper levels of the engine. Should a level check be carried out on an engine that has recently been switched off, a low oil level reading may result. This may mislead dealers and customers into concluding that the engine has consumed a quantity of oil.

A revised oil level checking procedure has been developed and will be introduced into future editions of the owners handbook. The procedure is as follows:
1. Ensure that the engine is at full working temperature. Turn off the engine.
2. Remove the dipstick and allow the oil to drain down for 5 minutes.
3. Clean the dipstick and insert it gently into the tube until the 'O' ring on the handle moulding is about to enter the tube.
4. Slowly push dipstick fully home.
5. Wait for 5 seconds, withdraw the dipstick and take the level reading.

Should a second reading be required it will be necessary to repeat operations 2 to 5 to allow the dipstick tube to drain down. Similarly, should it be necessary to add oil to the engine, operations 2 to 5 must be repeated."


This is the official advice which I have passed on to members several times, including in this thread.

I suspect that the recommendation to ensure that the engine is at normal working temperature is because the oil will flow out of the upper parts of the engine much more readily than when it is cold.

I expect that MG Rover considered any increase in oil level due to thermal expansion to be so small that it can be disregarded.

Simon
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