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31st October 2019, 23:12 | #11 | |
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EDIT: Ah, I see you've twigged it. TC Last edited by T-Cut; 31st October 2019 at 23:15.. |
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1st November 2019, 00:42 | #12 | |
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I have done the coolant temp check and it is reading high 80s to high 90s but fluctuating up and down a lot between them number. But the heater is still freezing and like the original poster said about 2500 RPM it starts to get warm then drops cold again when you slow down
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1st November 2019, 09:04 | #13 | ||
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The other possibility is an air lock particularly if work has been carried out and the proper refilling/bleeding procedure not followed. Simon
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1st November 2019, 09:06 | #14 | |
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1st November 2019, 10:15 | #15 | |
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When I bleed it I do it the same way I do my metros, open the bleed screw next to the battery and put a funnel n the coolant bottle and fill that with coolant to force the air out. I know that works on them.
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1st November 2019, 10:16 | #16 |
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someone said earlier on in the post about 2500 rpm and it gets warm. this is what mines doing as well.
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1st November 2019, 11:10 | #17 |
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You have an airlock Josh, I would remove the hoses that go to the matrix and back flush them, then refill and bleed correctly and see what happens.
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1st November 2019, 11:21 | #18 |
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And here is the correct method of refilling/bleeding a 75/ZT diesel Josh.
To increase your chances of success at the first attempt, I would follow MG Rover's recommendation that the system is first fully drained (after which you can back-flush the heater matrix as Trikey suggests) including the cylinder block drain plug. I don't have a diesel, I have a petrol 75, but by following the MGR procedure for my engine exactly, I have never had an air lock, overheating or poor heater performance. Let us know how you get on. Simon
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