KV6 rough running following Timing belt change

[MWMan]

Hi all

The water pump was leaking all over the place, so I needed to change that, and decided to do the main timing belt and auxiliary belt while it was being done. Bought the Laser timing tools to do the job. I didn't change the small timing belts, I left those alone.

Using the tools, I got what I thought was accurate replacement of the belt, as all timing marks were spot on after replacing the belt and rotating it round a few times. I fitted a new timing belt tensioner and new cam shaft end caps. I had the inlet manifold off, replaced all the seals with new ones, and fitted new spark plugs.

OK, so on starting it up, it sounded really rough and misfiring, and giving me a "check Engine" alarm. I have had a really good look round all the connections and pipework I removed and all looks to be back the way it was before. I have removed each spark plug cap in turn to see if it is one one cylinder, but its so rough it was difficult to tell if it made any difference.

Any ideas as to what I may be missing? I really don't want to scrap the car, as I have put a lot of money and effort into her over the last few years, but I'm wondering if this is the end.

Thanks in advance for any ideas

[SD1too]

Hi John,

Did you remember to attach the little earth wire at the rear of the RH bank cylinder head? It's easily overlooked.

Simon

[MWMan]

Originally Posted by SD1too

Hi John,

Did you remember to attach the little earth wire at the rear of the RH bank cylinder head? It's easily overlooked.

Simon

I'll check that today. Thanks Simon.

[DMGRS]

I'd plug in a cheap code reader - it could be that one of the coil packs has failed once disturbed. It does happen from time to time.

[roverbarmy]

The timing kits have different settings for 2.0 litre and 2.5 litre if I remember correctly? Did you set it for the correct engine?
See camashaft adapters:-
https://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/4577

[MWMan]

Thanks for the responses.

I checked the earth lead Simon mentioned and that was still in place. It wasn't one I removed. I definately used the 2.5 adaptors in the kit and I tried to get TOAF connected yesterday, but the laptop its on was playing up. I will try one of my other readers on it.

However, having not used the Rover since early March and my Volvo only a couple of times, I'm thinking its time for it to go. I'll have one more bash this week to resolve it, and it will then be off to the scrappers via Giveacar.

I paid £1300 for the car in 2011 so it owes me nothing!

[Blink]

I don't know if this is relevant in your case but see the bit where he says the mark on the crankshaft pulley lines up with the arrowhead on the oil pump housing but the crankshaft can still be 360 degrees out - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2fFx8SPiTSc


Also, this one - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lJqEqF_S7n8

Post 11 - https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...=272765&page=2

[COLVERT]

If it ran OK before you FIXED it and now it's running rough it can only be the way in which you FIXED it.----


Don't scrap the poor old beast. It's not failed you; it's you that's failed it.---



Otherwise it's off to the scrappers for you.---That-a way.

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by COLVERT

If it ran OK before you FIXED it and now it's running rough it can only be the way in which you FIXED it.----

Hi John,

It's a bitter pill for any of us to swallow, I know, but I suspect that Colvert may have hit the nail on the head. But before the storm clouds gather I'd like to offer some reassurance. From what I've read you've been sensible and careful. You've used the service tools and as you've only worked on the primary (front) belt, we should be able to find out what's gone wrong.

First of all, the misfiring may not be connected with the timing belt at all but related to your changing of the sparking plugs. As you'll have found out, the RH bank is a real fiddle. You're working virtually blind in a restricted space. Perhaps one or more of the ignition coils isn't seated properly on the plug. Could you have mixed up the connections?

On the LH bank my car's plastic and rubber plug boots recently disintegrated. They also require a very firm push and listening for a click to confirm good electrical contact. That's worth checking too.

Secondly, how did you get on with refitting those two invisible fixings to the RH bank at the back of the plastic manifold chamber? They are important to ensure that the chamber is properly sealed to the manifolds.

So John, now that you've had a few days to get over the trauma of what's happened, please check your work even if you are convinced that you did everything perfectly. Remember Colvert's wise words!

Finally for now, here are a couple of questions about the belt replacement.

1. Did the groove in the crankshaft pulley (not the gear wheel) line up perfectly with the word SAFE and the arrow on the engine casing?
2. You said that you fitted a new tensioner. Did you follow INA's instructions for correctly adjusting the pulley? These are not in RAVE or Haynes and are critical to correct belt tension.

Simon

[Rich in Vancouver]

The only thing I have to add is to check the vacuum lines on top of the manifold. Make sure they are properly seated in the quick release fittings on the manifold. Also if the T-fitting comes apart it can cause rough running. Mine came apart so I fabricated a support bracket to hold it firmly together.